curmudgeon

I've made several "Arizona", shot-gun or step=in chaps that can be put on over a pair of boots. Takes some time in pattern development, i use oil cloth and staples to develop my patterns as it doesn't stretch like normal cloth does. I develop my pattern with a three inch overlap down the side, and then put slits down both pieces with a 1" piece of leather to connect the sides. I do reenactments so never ever use zippers!!! Once i have my basic pattern, i commit it to cardboard for future sets. believe me it takes time but the product is well worth it. Single pocket on off side, and buckle on off side as well versus in center. Olkder chaps have 5 or 7 holes in front, then fewer as you progress from mid-1800s to finally three holes around the turn of the century. jamcooper@aol.com if you want more. regards, curmudgeon

I'm in the process of building a period correct (1867-1895) gun belt and holster. My research has proven that many of the makers during this period used various hand made stamps to create patterns and designs on both belt and holsters. And i have found examples of the use of molding tools to again create patterns on these leather pieces. What i'm trying to find are true leather workers from this period that did actual leather tooling on leather pieces. Any help will be really appreciated. And i thank you, Curmudgeon

A couple of thoughts: As you may know, every border stamp requires it's own angle. I've made a leather template with this angle for every border stamp so i can most easily start my course of stamping. Second, i 've use a grinder to shave off a second and third stamp to match every full border stamp that i have. The first grind is to flatten the stamp off at the shaft at a 45 degree angle and the second grind is to flatten the stamp at the angle to match the stamping angle. Thus, i can easily run my border stamps fairly close to any edge without tipping the stamp and possible going over the edge. The selection of the inside border stamp then is carfully selected to ensure that it reaches every mark left by my border stamping. The results ensure that no excess marks are left anywhere... Hope this helps, Curmudgeon oops, an error: The one stamp is flattened at a 90 degree angle, the second one to match the border stamp angle. Sorry 'bout that. Curmudgeon

Almost every stock beveler has sharp side edges that tend to leave marks no matter how you overlap them, etc. I take every size beveler and very carefully remove this sharp edge using a dremel wheel. Then i fully buff the face smooth again. I have found that every tool can be improved upon and this helps keep beveling marks from starting in the first place. regards, curmudgeon