patches

Got it. Thank you so much. It is sewing beautiful and my stitch length adjustment is working. Now I am going to start on my singer 294. Wish me luck :-)

Well, my timing belt is here. I have marked everything and removed the hand wheel. I loosened the two set screws on the inside of the machine nearest the wall of the machine. Sooooo now I am stuck. When you say bushing would that be the large round piece which appears to house some ball bearings? If so should I use a small flat punch to gently drive it out. Sorry for all the questions but the owners manual I have is not very clear about this.

We'll shut, still not loose but I did break the timing belt :-(. Just ordered a new one. I was thinking if taking some spark plug gaping gauges and trying to gently work those in between the wheels. What do you think?

Still locked up. Put wd40 on and I'm just going to let it work for awhile. Then I will try the kerosene. I would never figured out where to clean it without your detailed help. I'm sure I will get it to loosen up. Might take time as it may have been gummed up for a long time. This machine sews so nice and runs so smooth, I am excited to have hope at changing stitch length. I will keep you informed. Thanks again!

Thank you so much for your help. I thought I would share the story of my machine. My Aunt and Uncle taught upholstry at the local college in the 80's. About 10 years ago my Dad decided he want to learn how and he traded something for this machine. It was jammed and my Aunt could not get it cleared. (I think now it was the safety clutch). I recieved it from my Dad about 6 years ago. Had it about two years an could not get it working so I gave it to an older leathercrafter here in the area. He is in his 90's and can fix any machine. In the last two years my Father and my Aunt have passed away. In January I was asked if I wanted that old machine back, he had it freed up but it was in pieces. I emotionally went over to collect my treasure. But oh yes it was in pieces. The machine was working for the most part on the bench, the table had sat outside for two winters, the motor was in the back yard in the mud, all the additional feet are someplace, but he has so many machines we don't know where. My husband came over to help me get everything loaded up. His remark, "Looks like you have a boat anchor." I said I knew this but as I had more time than money I wanted to work on it. Here are some before and after pictures. I tore the motor apart and got it working, I didn't want to invest a lot in the table as I didn't even know if I would get this running so I modge-podged the table to go with the western theme of our home, put it all together, and nearly cried when it worked. I know my Aunt and Dad are happy. Other than the stitch length issue it is running beautifully. I do owe much thanks to the older craftsman for all his help fixing the machine head itself. Thank you to leatherworker.net - can't even begin to say how much I have learned in the last four years from this site and all of those willing to share knowledge. I hope someday I can help new people starting on the amazing journey of leathercraft.

There are two buttons. The one I am pushing is the one closest to the bobbin housing.

Ok, so I have read everything I can find on setting stitch length on this machine. I am still not sure of myself. The good news this machine sews beautifully. It is sewing 7 stitches per inch. The stitch length indicator is in the blank area between the longest setting and the shortest setting when the plunger is depressed and locks in. With the plunger depressed the balance wheel will not turn at all. First, do I understand correctly that I should be able to turn the balance wheel with the plunger depressed to set stitch length. Second, if yes, what do I loosen to make this happen. I was thinking the set screw in top of the stitch indicator but it is soooo tight I was afraid I was not going in the right direction. Thanks for any help.

Thank you to everyone for you input. I have a person who has requested a longer drop on his holster (he does not want to go buscadero style). I used the suggestions and placed a piece of thick harness leather with a 1" tab so the belt feeds behind that tab. Then I opened up the liner and placed a hidden Chicago screw and glued it down. Worked great!

If someone can give me some ideas I would sure appreciate it. When making cowboy style holsters I feel the holsters are to sloppy on the belt. Is there a trick or a keeper that is installed to keep the holster tight on the belt?

Can I ask what weight thread and needle size you used on these?

Hi, I have a Sutton Fenda crank leather splitter. My problem is that it tends to not split to a conistent thickness. It will get thinner as I go, sometimes. It is not consistent. Does anyone know of adjustments I need to make? Thanks

Does anyone have the instructions for the Weaver Strop Board. I am new to the sharpening of tools and :-) If anyone would be willing to share my fax number (and phone number) is 707-459-6312 or I guess there is a way to scan it and post it. I wouldn't know how, but my daughter said you could. Thanks for any help!

Can anyone tell me any information on the Progressive leather splitter. It appears to be similar to a Landis Model 30. Thanks

Bruce-thank you so much-it is all starting to make sense. I kept reading about having to do two passes and could not figure out why. I am loving leatherworker.net. I am going to be working down in your area in a couple of weeks, if I have time I will stop by and introduce myself. Thanks again.