8KCAB

Those are awesome!

acox4t4: Now you are scaring me! I want to try and cut my own strings in a few months. What are you using to cut? KnotHead: If you use the aussie strander to cut, how do you bevel? Can you do both with that tool? Thanks!

There are step-by-step instructions for one in the "How to Braid Quality Custom Tack" book, which is sold at www.ubraidit.com. I made one for my father for Christmas this year. I wouldn't actually ever use one. There is no reason horse should ever be able to get his leg up and over the tie-down, but it happens (mostly when people unclip it from the cinch and loop it back to the noseband, but sometimes even when it's clipped - probably not in a keeper on the breast collar). Most leather strap tie-downs will break before the horse's leg does, unless they are really robust. I made one for my Dad because he pissed me off on a horse deal this year. I'm saying, "Here, I spent a lot of time on this, so you know I love you, but I know you won't use it, so enjoy a nice dose of spite." Edit: One way to solve this might be to use a loop of leather strand in between the noseband and tie-down. I know some poeple who use synthetic roping reins will use them between the snaps and th eye on the bit shank - for the same reasons. I braided those kinds of reins, too. Don't like them either.

Aha! I see. I've always used split-ear headstalls, even though some say they're more apt to come off if they get caught on something. That knot will look real nice with the forelock tucked behind.

Wow! Nice job. Using a slider on the throatlatch is a cool idea. Is there enough clearance between the the Carrick Bend knot and the forelock? I guess it would kinda depend on the horse...

Thanks for all the replies, guys and gals. Here is some input I recieved from another (pretty well known) source: There's a million ways to skin a cat. I've been branding calves since I was a kid - but if I go to a new ranch someone's gonna want something done a different way. I know I'm getting ahead of myself on this stuff - I'm just starting to get my 6 Bigh Turks Head straight-ish. I don't fly as much at work as a used to since I recieved a "promotion", so I have lot's of time to waste on the computer. It makes it look like I'm working - otherwise I'd be fiddling with strands at my desk! Just out of curiosity, does anyone know how the old Californio's did it? I'd guess that needles were pretty scarce. Maybe some kind of fid or awl fashioned from local hardwood? Any idea's about the techniques of Luis Ortega? Again, I don't think there's a right or wrong way. This braiding bug has piqued my curiosity about the historical factor.

So, do most braiders use needles to thread the strings through when making buttons? Hought made no mention of them in the "Basics Reivsed" instructions on Spainish Rings or Turks Head. It sounds like it would be much easier. I am familiar with using hemostats, as this is the technique I learned braiding and tying paracord from the ubraidit book. I've done the Turks head 10 or 15 times now... I did a heringbone interweave on it a few times. The interweave is easy, but I'm trying hard to improve the symmetry of the Turks Head skeleton. I only rolled and finished a few Spainish Rings, since I'm reusing the strings until they are to kinked and twisted. I imagine that if the knot is not symmetrical before you roll it, it will only get worse as it is finished. Do you guys find that to be true?

Thanks for the replies! I guess I'm not really doing "fid work". I just use it to lift the strings so that I can get the working end underneath and through. I was wondering if lifting the strings too much was damaging to the overall process. Thank you!

Howdy all. I worked with paracord for a couple of years, and I just purchased a Basic Kit from Hought. I'm really enjoying it - it's nice to handle the roo hide and working with smaller strings practicing buttons instead of getting hog-tied in paracord. I want to avoid bad habit's - at least as much as I can without one-on-one instruction, and had some questions about handling the fid. I'm trying to be disciplined in not setting the fid down, even if a little hand contortion is required. My question is, do you always poke the fid through and make a big hole, and then run the string through? Or, do you poke, and follow with the string while the fid is on it's way out? Or, something else? Should a person avoid pulling up to much with the fid, even if it makes the hole smaller and takes more time and effort to get the string through? Or, does it all come out OK after rolling? I'm sure there is as many ways as there is braiders... I'd like to see some pictures of work before it is rolled and finished, so I can see a minimum of what is wanted before finishing. Thanks everybody for the great info on this site!

Hello. Someone reuested via PM that I post some pictures of the "Braiding Basics" kit from Gail Hought when I recieved it. So, here they are. They said 4-6 weeks for delivery, and they meant it! Six weeks to the day! Can't wait to get started. . .

Hello. I believe this is my first post here, though I've been lurking for some time. I started about two years ago using "How to Braid Quality Tack" from ubraidit.com. I figured it would be good to start with something cheap. I have braided about 15 projects out of it with paracord, along with many mohair cinches and breast collars, which I guess isn't really braiding. I recently ordered a "Braiding Basics Kit" from Hought, which includes the Basics book as well as material to get started. It was expensive ($325). I'm not sure if any of the techniques I learned from braiding paracord will positively transfer to roohide. Some things may transfer negatively. In either case, I am looking forward to recieving my kit. I plan on practicing a lot using this kit, and then making several small projects like key fobs. This is all in an effort to reach my goal of braiding the classy bosals (and perhaps, some day, reins) that I see on this website. Good luck on your projects. You are not alone!