earlthegoat2

Thanks Uwe for posting that picture to better clarify what I was describing. When first learning about sewing machines, threading them exactly as instructed is always hammered home. Eventually you learn more about what is going on with the machines and you figure out some tweaks that aren’t exactly taught or recommended but they work better in spite of that. Its an interesting process.

The thread was properly seated in the tensioner and as the sewing commenced it rode up and out of the tensioning discs over time. I duplicated the problem several times. Unfortunately the video does not include the audible "click" as the tensioner discs are freed from the thread. It is obvious from the example material that the problem manifested as the sewing continued. I am interested as to why it happened now and not when I first got the machine. Was the tensioner worn out or damaged? I don't know.

Here is a half arsed video I made documenting the problem. This was a tough one to diagnose because whenever I would get stitch problems I would hit the knee lift and that would end up letting the thread back into the tensioner and thus allowing the problem to occur with at least predictable frequency. I was stymied for a bit by the fact that I could remove the material and restart the sewing process and the problem would essentially reset. Tricky.

Ok, I think I have it figured out. Im going to give it a good test to make sure yet and I will get back with the results. Here is an older thread where there was a similar problem with a similar machine. In this instance it was a Juki DNU-241 (non-H). Even though in that thread there were some other things going on with that machine, IMO the problem was never addressed to completion.

Got this machine a few months ago used and it sewed great for about a month. Then this started happening. Sews good then starts making loops on the bottom. Like the take up is not taking up all the way. In the beginning I fiddled with the bobbin tension and switched to better quality thread and that solved the problem temporarily. Now it is doing this constantly and is essentially unusable. I have tried different needles as well as rethreading. I have the manual and I have followed it. I have tried to increase tension and all that basic stuff.

Very cool. The comment he made towards the beginning of the video about the broken pulley being made out of zinc and having been pleased with the service life of it before it broke, made me think maybe he wasn't too pleased since the new one is made from an aluminum billet. That one should last slightly longer than forever.

I was eyeballing that machine too. In the end I decided to pass on it as well before even going to take a look. Too far away unless I knew the price was right but the ad only states to make an offer. Since the pedigree of the machine is in question, I don't know what to ask for it except for my standard starting bid of 100 bucks.

Sorry how long it took but yes this is still for sale

Entire cutting edge of the blade is 6”

HF Osborne Champion Lap Skiver and Splitting Machine. Has an incorrect screw or two but this is a fully functioning splitter. I used it to split down the buckle ends of belts. I’m sure the blade needs some touching up. Quality vintage tool. $200 shipped

I know there are flammable and non flammable varieties of Weldwood. That is one difference in can color. I have tried: Masters, Weldwood (flammable),Old Barge, New Barge, Old Tandy, New Tandy, 3M Scotchweld 4475, The one that worked to my satisfaction was the Old Tandy and Old Barge. The others just work. They work but not like the old ones. The old ones made a permanent bond the second they touched each other. The new ones can be worked around a little. This can be a good thing but I like the confidence that comes with the old style adhesion. I use Masters and occasionally 3M Scotchweld now. The 4475 variety is their product for leather. The Scotchweld line are known as "Plastic Adhesives". Another general note: If it says not for sale in California, then it will work about as good as anything that is available. The 4475 carries that label. It gives new meaning to the term expensive. It costs 20 dollars for 5oz. I only use it sparingly where not a lot of flex will be needed in the finished product. I have no doubt it would work for those areas though. Im going to try Pliobond next. They have a specific product for porous surfaces.

Thanks for the help sir. This worked exactly as explained