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larry1096

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  • Website URL
    www.zenleatherholsters.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rural TN
  • Interests
    Holsters for concealed carry, concealed carry belt-making

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything!!
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google brought me

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  1. Not a bad plan. Does the leather feel dry? Larry
  2. I guess it's sort of 'nowhere to hide'? Keeps you honest, though. Larry
  3. Thanks for that; gotta' track some of those down. Larry
  4. Look great. Are those snaps, or dome-headed binding screws? I like that smooth look. I also like the little 'mind changer'. Larry
  5. I've found you can make your life easier (i.e., get some breathing room around the stitching) by being sure to run the rear flap straight down the body of the holster; requires tweaking where it folds, of course, but it's doable. Larry
  6. Nice. They're deceptive in that they're simple, but the devil is in the details. Larry
  7. Very nice work-worthy of 'Uncle Lou's' design. Larry
  8. Thanks for the kind words-means a lot! After wet-forming, I used Weaver's 'leather firmer', since I want my holsters to be as stiff and sturdy as possible. After that, there's a dip in Resolene, and that's the entirety of the finish. The clip is mounted to slotted posts mounted under the reinforcement piece wrapped around the mouth of the holster. Larry
  9. I haven't done many roughout holsters; there's definitely a knack to keeping the look clean and consistent. Larry
  10. I think very detailed boning is partly aesthetics, partly to enhance retention. I continue to work toward the level Mr. Ingles demonstrates, though I've a long way to go. Larry
  11. Sorry for the delay; took some time off to rupture my left rotator cuff. (I don't recommend it; giving it 0/5 stars on Yelp.) My molding is improving, but there's a long way to go. One thing that really seemed to help was beginning the molding with an actual press (I use one made for Kydex, some folks use full-size shop presses.) A few minutes under a lot of pressure goes a long way to get getting the basic outline of the gun started, and then a variety of molding tools can help pick out some detail. Thanks for the encouragement; I've learned a lot here, and will continue to do so. Larry
  12. After years of being a hobbyist holster maker, I've decided to get a bit more serious about my leatherwork in my semi-retirement. Here are a few recent builds: Larry Zen Leather Holsters
  13. Yes, as I mentioned you can use gum trag or other edging compounds to 'paste' the flesh side of leather. (I understand the confusion, by the way; generally, when folks say 'suede' I think the average leatherworker thinks of a split piece without a grain side remaining.) Still, to make it weather/wear proof, you're going to need a topcoat on it, like Resolene or M&G. Larry
  14. I'm no expert, so I'm glad to be corrected, but here's my take: you can 'paste' a back with Tokonole or Gum Trag, but to actually weatherproof it you're going to want an acrylic topcoat like Resolene or Mop & Glow afterwards. Larry
  15. Those are very nice! It's interesting how you adapted the trigger guard cover from the S/A holster; don't often see that on holsters for semi-auto's, but it works very well. Larry
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