alb

Glenn, The needle is a 332 lg lr. The other numbers on the package are 10 130 21 4 Is there a way to see what the hook and needle are doing when I'm actually stitching a piece of leather? I was thinking I would loosen the tension on the top thread all the way and then gradually tighten it until it started stitching on the the thin leather and then try the thicker leather. I am quite new to using any type of sewing machine. Actually as I think about this maybe it is the tension. The machine is not used very much at all. I was practicing with it a couple of weeks ago and noticed that it didn't seem to be threaded correctly. The thread was only going through the tensioners on the side of the machine and not through the tensioner on the top. My user's manual only shows one tensioner - the one on the top, so I figured the other one was some sort of pretensioner added to the 30-5 model and not shown in the basic 30 manual. So I moved the thread to the top tensioner and left it out of the one on the side altogether. It seemed to sew fine after that but maybe I didn't try it with any thicker leather. So - how should it be threaded and how do I adjust it so that the tension is correct? Also - I don't really understand how the tensioners are supposed to work. Is the thread supposed to sit on the outside of the metal plates or does it slip under and between them? THANK YOU!!!! Ann

Hi, I have an Adler 30-5. It is stitching thin (approx 1-2 oz) leather just fine but when I try to sew thicker leather (approx 1/4 in or so) it skips almost all of the stitches. I have changed the adjustment on the arm to heavy leather, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. It does seem to be making a clicking noise when it skips a stitch but not when it stitches okay. I'm not sure where the clicking noise is coming from. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated..... Thanks, Ann btw - I have read lots of the old messages and they have been very helpful for me in learning about my machine. thanks!

THanks for the response. I think one of my main problems was that I used way too long a lace, in trying to get it all done with one piece. I was using about 2 1/2 yards but still needed another yard and a half after that. I think I should have used shorter pieces, though I'm not sure what the optimum would be. I found myself running the full length of the lace through my fingers after each stitch to make sure I was keeping the lace straight for the next stitch. About 3/4 of the way through I realized that I could put the needle through the hole, bring it out about 6 inches and then into the next hole before pulling the lace through the first hole all the way. This ensured that the lace wasn't twisted and it saved a ton of time. I think there is a probably a much better way to do this, I just haven't figured it out yet. Thanks again, Ann

Okay I'm assuming that the lack of replies means that everyone must think I'm totally beyond help! LOL:) It would be helpful to know how long I can expect this to take once I have more experience. Anyone care to share?

I just finished lacing together skirts on a saddle that was in for new fleece. It took me over 3 hours to lace the skirts back together - yikes!!! If anyone can share tips that help them speed up this job I would really appreciate it.

I'd be interested in knowing how this holds up. I'm working on a saddle right now with white leather lace buckstitching that's scuffed and discolored. I've just replaced the wool and replaced a couple of buckstitches on the side of the seat. Both were quite a job as this saddle maker believed in using a LOT of glue. The difference between the old lacing and the new lace used to lace the skirts together is jarring. Makes me want replace all the buckstitching. I'm not sure that painting something on would work as the original smooth finish of the lace is worn.

Thank you all for the replies. A friend of the owner had brought this in and didn't know the history. It turns out this saddle was actually made for the current owner. It was made in California in 1968 by a saddlemaker named Juan Pena and he paid $400 for it. The saddle shop is no longer in business. Thanks again, Ann

Can anyone give me any information on this saddle or maker? THanks in advance. Ann