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Ferg - Why did you punch, wait, punch, wait, punch, as mentioned in your first post? Ann

WOW WOW WOW!!!!! Absolutely gorgeous!! Ann

I can't wait to see the front. I love doing restoration work. It's really satisfying to work on projects like this. Were you able to reach Kim at Preservation Solutions? What did she recommend? Ann

Let us know how it turns out..... Ann

Don't oil. Contact the folks at Preservation Solutions and see what they have to say. Their products are excellent and they will tell you which product would be best to use. Ann forgot to include the link: http://www.preservation-solutions.com/

I usually backstitch 2 stitches, cut very close, poke the ends in without burning and tap all of -the stitching softly with a round-faced hammer. If the ends really don't want to stay in place, I'll singe them. If I'm using a waxed nylon or poly I won't burn as it usually leaves a hard, sharp, knarly knot. Ann

Before stitching the last hole or two take a very sharp knife - xacto works well, and make a very slight slice on the grain side of the leather, between the last two holes. Take the last stitch and gently pull on the ends of the thread to snuggle the thread down into the slit. When you backstitch one hole, the thread from that last stitch will sit on top and it will look as if there is only one thread. Burning ends works better on certain kinds of thread, and not very well on others. Is there any hidden method where no ends can be seen?

acetone will pull up the dye.

My mentor in saddle making used artificial sinew to hand stitch everything. I have had saddles come back into the shop that he built 20 years ago and the stitching looks great. He taught me to coat with beeswax, do a tight twist, then rub with deerskin to create a twisted thread from the sinew before stitching. I have been meaning to find out what the sinew is made from. It certainly is a much more comfortable material to hand stitch with than a waxed nylon or poly. I tend to use linen on things I handstitch, though sometimes go back to the artificial sinew. I would be interested to know the long term durability of the various threads. Ann

Andy - What do you mean when you say you use 5 bleeders on each skirt? Also - I'm having a hard time envisioning how you would fit 2 screws on a string.... Ann

An incredibly accomplished saddle maker once told me that's what makes one professional, the skill with which a mistake can be 'transformed'. I'm pretty sure I won't stop making mistakes, but I'm getting better at transforming them. I'd have to see a picture to give you recommendations on your particular mistake. Ann

THANK YOU!!!! This is so timely for me. I'm replacing a cheek piece on a bridle right now and it's inspired me to make a bride. What width straps do you generally use? On the piece that I'm replacing, the cheek piece is rounded with hidden stitches. I've done a couple of short test pieces to practice getting that part right, but I'm still having one problem. I end up with a round that is smaller in diameter than the original on the bridle. Would it be unusual for that part to be made from a tapered strap - wider at the part that is going to be rounded over and narrower on the flat part? or is there some trick to getting a maximum round from a given width strap? I don't think there is any core or filler on these pieces. Thanks again for a great demo! Ann

THey are lovely. I am not a braider. How long does it take to complete one of these? Ann

I wasn't able to see any stitching on the photo in the e-bay listing. Am I missing something?

That's what I would do, considering it's on the back. If it was the front it would be a whole 'nuther story. I recently remade a belt because I got a very light thumbprint of darker dye on the finished belt. The rest of the belt was gorgeous, and as soon as I did it I realized it and did a quick clean of the area, but there was still this very faint thumbprint that probably no one else would see. I didn't want to re-dye a darker shade so I remade the belt. Ann

Thanks everyone for the responses. I appreciate you taking the time. JLSLeather - beautiful work! From a practical standpoint - do you keep lots of little bottles around with various dilutions? I tend to do most dying with a wool scrap and tip the bottle to the scrap, full strength. I'm wondering the best way to get started trying some dilutions without wasting dye and without being overrun by little bottles or jars..... Do you use a dropper to measure? My latest discovery is some old fiebings leather *stain* that I found in the back of a cabinet. Imparts a beautiful translucent color that is great for saddle touch ups. Anyone know how stain differs from dye? Ann

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength. Thanks, Ann

I have scraped knuckles right now from a particularly ornery saddle I worked on last week. It's not often that the huge wooden wedge we use fails, but we sure worked up a sweat on this one. I'm looking forward to trying this trick on the next tight one. Thanks for posting! Ann

Absolutely gorgeous! I would love to see this in person. I'm sure the pictures don't do it justice. Even zoomed in it's hard to see the stitches. Makes me realize how large it really is. Thanks for posting. Ann

I just spent an hour browsing your photos - Wowza! Awesome work. Would you mind answering a couple of questions? What size thread and needles do you use for various stitching? Also - how are those round crystal beads sewn into the headbands? Welcome to the Forum! Ann

This is great info! I'm wondering if you have used the Copic marker/airbrush system? I have an airbrush but I don't use it because it's a hassle to clean.... Ann

I've only been doing this for about a year but I've worked with a lot of saddles in that time. Certainly some flexibility can be returned to leather by oiling. But in my experience on leather that is "stiff as a board" you would have to add way too much oil to get flexibility. If the leather is stiff, but not flaking or degraded in other ways, then sometimes laying a wet towel over the stiff parts and covering with a plastic bag for a couple of hours may soften the leather. There are products in the Preservation solutions line that can then be added that will migrate into the leather, replacing the water, and allowing it to maintain the flexibility. One of the several potential problems with this, is that you have then raised the humidity tremendously and it's possible that mold spores will be activated. Also, you should not use water on leather that is flaking or damaged. And no product can eliminate or reverse the effects of red rot. There is definitely a point at which leather is beyond being able to be salvaged. You should take into account what parts of the saddle you are working on. Degradation in the rigging is a safety issue. Worn leather on the seat jockey may or may not be depending on the riding conditions and who is doing the riding. I find the feel of the leather and how it is reacting to bending, stretching, etc. a better indication than what it looks like. Hope this helps, Ann