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Nutty Saddler

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About Nutty Saddler

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/12/1968

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.bespokebrowbands.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Somewhere in the middle
  • Interests
    Saddlery , Horses

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlery , Bridlemaker
  • Interested in learning about
    everything else
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    random search

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  1. I use a screw crease to mark a line at the correct distance from the edge and then I use a pricking iron to mark where the stitches go - pricking irons come in all sizes from 4/inch to 17-18/inch. - see - How I make a bridle - thread for pics
  2. Sorry for the delay in replying but I have been off forum for a while. The thread I use is 3/18 reverse twist linen thread that I pull through beeswax prior to use. I use an edge stain on all exposed edges and on all skived/split surfaces. Patterns are normally drawn on paper to get looking right and to get the correct size , this is then pinned into place ( using the pricking marks for holes) and traced over which leaves the pattern on the leather - this takes a bit of practice as you only get one chance to get it right . The pattern is then pricked out - sometimes one prick at a time - stitching is also a careful process as if a thread is pulled too tight it can tear the pattern , pattern stitching is completed with 3/25 thread. I get my threads and stains from ABBEY England
  3. Hi, does anyone know where I can find a stamp of a barefoot hoofprint - i.e. not a horse-shoe print, but barefoot hoof? Would need to be around 20mm. Thanks!
  4. I am in the middle of making a pairs carriage harness for my neighbour , I can tell you first hand that to hand make a harness is not easy and takes a huge ammount of time . please bear in mind that I AM the Nutty Saddler - this means no machines , so a single 6' trace has 4 rows of stitching at 8/inch , which is 2300 stitches - there are 2 pairs of traces which makes 9200 stitches for the traces alone ( all by hand ) - I will post some pictures when I'm finished ( about this side of never , but only just ) What was it you wanted to know specifically and I will do my best to answer if I can.
  5. Yes you have to compensate for the leather narrowing because of the insert. As with manythings saddlery it is a good idea to go to a sale and buy some really old stuff that is in really bad condition ( normally really cheap ) , you can then take these things apart and see how they are made - this should give you methods and measurements which you can use in future projects without going through all the trial and error of having to figure things out for yourself - and if you get old properly made stuff you can see how it's done properly.
  6. Some are molded prior to manufacture , but most have not been . You have to make the pad by wrapping a piece of soft panel or upholstery hide around a foam/neoprene filler - this is then stitched to the noseband . to get the shape insert a piece of leather or rope - the larger the insert the bigger the shape. Be careful to make sure that when doing the first line of stitching the pad is in the correct place , it is easy to misplace this as when the insert is placed the leather bends round this and makes the top piece slightly narrower - again the bigger the insert the more this becomes evident . hope this helps
  7. If money were no object I would still sew everything by hand and go buy a Ferrari.
  8. As with everything quality comes at a price but it is best in the long run - when I buy my tools I only buy good quality tools ---- but I only have to buy them once , I don't always buy them new , some of my tools are older than I am but as they were quality when they were made they still are quality now. I only use the best hides as well , being a horse rider as well as a saddler I know how important it is to use the best materials , the last thing I need is a lawsuit because something I made broke because it was made from poor leather . One real difficuilty I have is many potential customers don't want to part with the extra $$$ , they aren't leatherworkers themselves and don't understand about leather quality - I make a bridle for a horse at $150 - they see a similar one for $30 / $40 , you can try to explain that it is imported from india / china and really poorly made but half the time they don't care , all they see is $$$
  9. I have SIX cats in my workshop !!! All my leather has to be hung up all the time and any paperwork left on the desk gets chewed - gives a new twist on my cat ate my homework !
  10. Dixons are normally really good - if you contact them and ask them to make you a 7/inch pricking iron but with a width/thickness similar to that of a 10 or 12 they will probably do it for you . As they mill the tools themselves , special requests are not a problem - they made me a 16 / inch tool which is not listed in any catalogue . An old pricking iron is also an option as they never used to be so fat - I have an old 8 / inch which is about half as thick as my new one
  11. Fiebings produce a white dye - I have used the acrylic and it works quite well , would be no problem for belts
  12. I only use pre-dyed leather ( unless someone wants pink ....... ) colour is consistent over the whole hide and they are also pre-greased as part of the finishing process - all I have to do is stain and polish the cut edges Depends on what sort of harness you are talking about - being an English saddler I think of horse harness before all else , I get most of my hides from Claytons of chesterfield and have had no poblems over the last 19 years . Makers marks are more permenant if the stamp is heated first . I also hand stitch everything - as a horse owner / rider I want all of my work to be the best I can make - I know hand stitch is stronger and will not do anything else , I understand the use of machines as a time saving is important and many people just don't have the time to hand sew - ( I am currently making a full size pairs harness completly by hand -utterly mad , I know )
  13. Are you sure they are J.Dixon tools - did you buy them new Most of my tools are Joseph Dixon and the crew, oval , hole and chisel punches have never had to be re-sharpened , they were all sharp when purchased and have stayed in perfect condition - and some of mine are 18 years old now . In my opinion Joseph dixon tools are amongst the best except knives ( try Solingen ) - if you contact them direct they will make tools to your specification with little fuss ( they made my 16/inch pricking iron )
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