DougVL

The knob sets the MAXIMUM speed of the motor. The original clutch pedal connects to the motor and controls its speed from zero to the max speed you set with the pot (some have a switch instead). The pedal linkage operates a speed control pot built into the motor housing. Some servos I've read about do have a mechanical brake, though. That can make it hard to turn the handwheel while the motor is stopped. I think it's only on the older servos. Ask before buying. Artisan has one that can also add needle up/down at stop control to the machine. I plan to get one like that soon. Doug

"end up one or two stitches in the hole" makes it sound like a failure to feed ahead to the next stitch. Did you mean you get more than one stitch in one hole? Doug

I've gotten lots of things from HF, over many years, and feel satisfied with them. Don't count on any real support from the store, though. They just sell stuff, not help use or fix it. Granted, you get what you pay for, but if you haven't got much money, all the wishing in the world for a nice, new, quality name brand won't get you anywhere. A Chinese knockoff can be a pretty good product. You just don't know until you try. If you can do or learn to do adjustments and repairs, go ahead with the HF. It's nice being able to get ship-to-store free shipping. That saves a lot of money if you're near enough to a store. Doug

Thanks! Now I understand. It did seem like the pointed end of the adjuster shaft must be doing the work, but I had thought that it might be the side of the taper, working as a cam. But this means that the taper was for the tip of the adjusting screw to limit the movement of the adjuster shaft inwards.

Put the round stock into the end of the arm shaft? Or into the setscrew hole, where the broken screw goes? The first would be about 6 inches of 1/4 inch diameter, the second about 1 inch of 1/8 inch diameter. I did tip the machine up on end and get the piece of broken off screw to come out. It's about the same length as the the other part, with the screw head and a few threads and a little of the smaller diameter threadless tip. Doug

Excellent description of how to go about choosing a machine. Unfortunately, it's pretty hard to tell the actual capabilities of any particular machine without info from users. For example, it's pretty hard for me to tell from websites what the real, functional differences are between a Toro 3000 or 4000. And it's like that for a lot of the flatbed compound feed machines, too. I've read that some will work with 207 thread, but others that look just the same won't. You nicely addressed half the battle. Once he knows just what he wants, he needs a way to find it. Lots of us are rather far from a place to go and see or try one. Just my 40% of a nickel. Doug

Bob - Thanks for the info and the quick response. The longer adjusting screw you mentioned is the one that's broken. The rounded tip end of it is missing, and may be somewhere inside the shaft. With the long & short adjustment screws removed, by poking a small screwdriver in I can feel the pointed end of the stitch length adjustment spindle, although the hole is too deep and narrow to actually see the point of the spindle down there. The thread on the end of the shaft is broken off in a couple of spots at the very end of the shaft, apparently from someone trying very hard to turn the stitch adjustment. I still need to try turning the machine up on end with the stitch length adjustment spindle removed to see if the broken part of the screw falls out, but it may be jammed in tightly. For my primary intended use, full max length stitch is about all I'd need and so I don't really have to repair it. But I'd really like to be able to, just because repairing things has been my job and hobby for a long time. Doug

Looking for help repairing my new-to-me old Singer 112W139 machine. I tried to find out just how old it is, but Singer says their data from the period when my serial number W1324293 was made was lost during or after WW II. I recently got a Singer 112W139 and I need some help with it. The stitch length adjustment doesn't work. The machine sews pretty well but only at the longest stitch length. I have been examining the stitch length adjustment mechanism but I don't understand how it works. I have seen the mechanisms on other machines - home sewing models and my Mitsubishi LU2-400. I understand those, but they're all different than the 111W series machines with the stitch length adjustment control at the center of the machine drive pulley and working inside the machine's upper arm shaft. On my machine, the adjuster won't turn, which would move it in and out because of the thread on the pulley end of the arm shaft. I have found that the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING SCREW (part number 200429) is broken and about half of it is missing. The lower, rounded-end part that would engage the point on the end of the FEED REGULATING SPINDLE (part number 224122) is gone. Or maybe still stuck inside the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING BRACKET (part number 237521). I would really like to find a diagram that shows the machine's feed length components together in their working relationship. I have a Mitsubishi LU2-4410 manual and it has a sort of cutaway drawing like that, and I've seen feed mechanism drawings in the couple of sewing machine repair books I've been able to read. Page 18 of the 111W & 112w manuals have an X-ray view of the Feed Driving Eccentric Regulating Bracket and Shaft which shows the the adjusting screw, and the spring and plunger on the opposite side of the shaft. But it doesn't show what the shaft is adjusting or how adjusting it affects the stroke of the stitch length mechanism. So, if anyone can help me find some information to help troubleshoot and repair my machine, I'll be very grateful! And of course I need to find a few parts, even a new arm shaft (p/n 240102) because the stitch length control thread on the pulley end has also been damaged, presumably by someone's attempts to turn the adjustment. Although replacing that shaft would be very difficult - maybe I'll have to live with limited functionality of the stitch length control if I can even get the adjustment mechanism to work at all. BTW, I'd also like to find out when it was made. Its serial number is W1324293, but the Singer dating site says the records for this range of serial numbers was lost or destroyed around the time of WW II.