Katy
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Hi I happen to see an old thread about your three phase converter boxes around 60 bucks. Can you please tell me where I can buy one of these? I have a commercial Sock machine as a three-phase motor And this sounds perfect. Thanks so much for your time.
cheers Kary
katy@thelegacyfarm.com
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Hi Kary, they are frequency controllers/converters who transform single phase current in to three phases and let you control all parameter on your motor. Like changing the hertz (frequency), that's adjust the speed on a AC motor. These are for sale on all places where they sell electronic components and of course Ebay. Look for the rating plate on your motor (small sign with Watt, amp and current), look for amp and current (110 or 230 Volts and amps). Make sure you buy a controller that is large enough, can handle the amp on your motor (and a bit more to be safe). I do not know if you live in a 230 or 110 environment. The instalation should be done by someone with knowledge of electronics. You could do it your self, then make sure you read up on the manual/instructions first (and be careful it's a lot of amps that can kill you). Could be difficult to understand these instructions if you have no experience with electronics. Every brand of controller have their unique set up, but the basically work the same way. Earth to earth from the motor to controller, the other three motor cables has to be changed around until the motor turns the right way (from motor to high current output controller). The two pole start swith (could be anything that are meant for 110 or 230 volt, like a lamp foot switch or something) are to be connected according to the manual. All motor parameters can then be controlled on the frequency controller, like speed startup time (how log until motor reach full speed in seconds) start up torque, and so on. You could also attach a pot meter to controlled the speed by (like a volum switch). Some says these controller are bad for the motor, but that's not proven to be right. It's a proven industrial solution used Daly all over the world to control every thing like AC driven fans and macines. Check your motor plate and buy a controller a bit larger than neccessary (by amps rating and the right volts) They only work by converting single Ph in to three phases, not single to single or three to three Ph. They are known to make motors sound bad on some frequencies, then just change the speed a little and it's gone (just the hertz that makes sound, nothing dangerous) You can buy a used controller that works fine too, have a look on Ebay. The bigger they are , the more expensive. These can be a little exepensive. Check it out and good luck.
Tor
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Oh boy I'm late on this one. But so happy to find this pattern and hope it is still available.
My daughter graduated as a medical doctor a year ago and is practicing in Maine. (I'm in Iowa) I would love to make this Dr. Bag for her as a gift. Could you also send me the file for the pattern?
Thanks so much,
Katy
www.thelegacyfarm.com
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Hi Katy,
Switzerland gets a new load of snow, even here in the lowlands where I live. So we have a nice white Christmas, me and my familiy. My best wishes for a blessed and merry Christmas and a happy and enjoyable New Year go out to you.
Mark, the leatherthresher.
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Hi Kathy,
Nice, you have added me to your friends.
I wish you a happy Easter time and a lot of joy with it.
Mark, the leathertresher.
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Hi everybody. I thought I would post this here to see if I get a response. I bought a pair of STI safety stirrups and was going to braid them myself with latigo string. I decided that is not a good idea because I will be taking them off and on to different saddles. I've attached pictures with measurements to show you it is not a huge project. If anyone is interested in doing this in a natural rawhide please email katy@thelegacyfarm.com. One thing. There will be no bar at that top to worry about going around it. The bar detaches as it is the safety mechanism. Would appreciate any and all replies or suggestions. Thanks so much. Katy
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Thank you, sure appreciate the info. I just saw this and I have my account set up to notify me if someone responds. Guess it's no working or I would have replied sooner.. Katy Will go take a look Sure appreciate the reply. Sorry didn't respond sooner. Katy
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Hi all, Well the redesigned site did not recognize my email or user name I had to create a new account. I'm in need of a new tooling hammer. The one I have is old and worn out. I'm tired of wacking myself. Any suggestions, rawhide. elastomer.plastic, angled.etc. I'm small so I need something with a little heft. Thanks so much, Katy
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Hi everybody on the braiding forum. I'm still a real newbie at braiding and am still working with leather not rawhide. Though I hope someday soon I'll be brave enough to try. I've been tooling since I was about 22 and making my own chaps and gear. (don't even ask how old I am LOL) I've just gotten back into the tooling this last year making some small stuff like Vaquero spur straps mostly and other little odd and ends. I do repairs on Leather goods, tarps, tie downs in my shop in addition to other non leather related stuff. I just love the old hand made braided tack and even the new. Now my question... I hope I have the right forum here. .At my age (no hints ) I gotta be a little more careful about riding. So I saved up and bought the STI safety stirrups. (only decent made break away stirrup on the market IMHO), no affiliation. The thing is I bought the uncovered oxbow so all you see is plastic. (yuck) my first plan was to just cover them with leather. But I was looking around on eBay and saw new hand made oxbows that were all rawhide braided for about $120. from a saddle shop in Arizona. After seeing those I wanted mine to be rawhide braided too. But problem is I'm no where near being good enough to do it my self, especially with rawhide. Is there anybody here that does outside work with raw hide braiding that would do a set of skinny oxbows? I would much prefer to send them to a list member than someone I don't know at all. I attached a couple of photos of them with the measurements. Any leads, advise, comments would sure be welcome. Spring is coming and I'm itching to ride. Thanks Katy
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Hi Bob, I have a 29-4 and the large thumb screw knob behind the machine right by the needle bar and up adjusts really well on mine and doesn't leave marks on the leather. I hadn't used her in a while and my husband ripped out the back stitching by the heel of his Red Wing, steel toed work boots. I took some scrap and adjusted the stitch length and pressure on the foot and they came out perfect with no marks at all. So I don't understand why we would need a roller foot. Not saying I haven't made marks on leather with that machine though. When I learned how she worked and to help her little she does just fine. The bobbin size is a pain. But I bought a box with about 50 of pre wound industrial waxed bobbin thread spools and it is a snap as I don't use the regular bobbin. I too am waiting for my Cobra Class 4 I ordered from Steve. But I will still need the 29-4 to get to places you just can't get on the bigger cylinder arms. Cheers, Katy
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Well I finally took the plunge and purchased a Cobra Class 4....... I have to say reading all of the posts on this list about the quality, service and Steve's reputation is what made the decision. Talking to him on the phone was a pleasure and a pleasure to deal with. So it won't be until sometime in February that my machine will be shipped. But it is paid for ) I chose this thread because I do have other leather sewing machines. I was going to sell them to raise the money to get a new one but.... thought I should wait until I am familiar with the Dream Machine to see what I don't need anymore. Probably will hang onto the Singer 29-4 as you can really get into tight spots. My American Straight Needle makes such a beautiful stitch I want to see if the Cobra can actually match it. Any comments appreciated on comparison. I also have a 3245 Commercial Singer Carpet Sewing machine that takes a 180 and 200 needle, walking foot, adjustable zig zag and straight locks stitch that I've used for repairing truck nylon binders and anything else that will fit under the 1/2 lift. Then I have my other flatbed is a commercial, Singer 241 lock stitch that I use to make chaps but has no problem doing 3/8ths leather stitching on reins and spur straps too. I do make a lot of Rag Rug purses and lately Bertha (3245) has been throwing a hissy fit about it. I seam up all of my rug selvege hems all the time. I'm hoping I can clear out some machines and make more room in my shop. I've heard nothing but good things about the Cobra basically doing it all. But seeing is believing I guess. Didn't want to give up any of my babies and then be sorry for it. Anyway nice to read all the wonderful posts. I learn a lot here. Cheers, Katy
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Hi everyone, I'm Katy and am new here. I saw this post thought I'd respond. I just took the plunge and am getting a new Artisan 3200. My workshop is so crowded with big machines with big tables. I figured this machine could take the place of all of them......maybe not after reading this forum??? Here is what I am using now. American straight stitch needle an awl, Singer 29-4 treadle, Singer flat bed 241, treadle and a Singer 3245 walking foot, zig zag carpet sewing machine with huge table and clutch motor. I do lots of repairs on all kinds of material from thick leather, biothane, semi straps (webbing) tarps. Couldn't get one of these machines to fix a nylon halter doubled. I don't dare use anything in my American but leather. I was told when I bought it that anything else would tangle it up and break the needle or awl. I sew up chaps, chinks, and trim stitch on some of my tooled spur straps I'm not new to sewing or repair but am only self taught and can use some help and great advise like I've seen in the posts here especially the leather part. Any way now I don't know if I should sell my other machines. I sure need the room that's for sure. Figures I get confused after the fact. Cheers, Katy out in the bononies NE Iowa
