bex DK

Definitely an interesting tutorial, but it only works with a SOFTBOUND notebook. I prefer hardbound to give a bit of support for writing. I made one this summer for a friend. I only show the finished work, not step-by-step and patterns, but I probably saved my paper plan somewhere. What I did was make a paper cover to be sure it could be put on and off without a problem. Then I cut the leather pieces and set to work. This is an A5 hardbound notebook, available inexpensively all over the place here in Europe. If I were doing the project again, I would start lacing at a point where the leather is DOUBLE THICKNESS so I could hide the ends properly. The design is based on one I found online--probably on the Tandy site, but I can't be sure--but I reworked it to increase the size. Made several photocopies once that was done then my husband wrote the letters on the pattern with a calligraphy pen. His handwriting matched better than any font I had on the computer. Helps to include the URL to my blog where I posted it. Notebook on blog

This looks like exactly what I need right now to improve my skills. Especially when it comes to getting the right result out of patterns. I am a little ahead because I had on my own figured out to focus on where things follow through and shaded in an extra copy of my patterns before tooling complicated designs to be sure I got it right.

Thanks! Looking forward to it progressing!

I had a box of ink jet transparencies that had been lying around for years. Just tried today. Trace with ball point, not stylus. Stylus scratched the ink off more. Ballpoint did a little, but left a visible line. Dunno the cost--this box is probably 5-6 yrs old now and barely used. But it is nicer than paper for things to reuse.

I am less experienced than most here, but accustomed to making do without too many tools. If your goal is the hole (not the piece you'd cut out of it) have you considered using a smaller hole punch, overlapping them around the line drawn for the hole? If you do this carefully (I'd prefer a single punch done with a hammer as opposed to a hole punch tool you squeeze in your hands), you can probably get a pretty nice line and you could use a small sharp craft knife to even it out a bit if needed. Edge beveling and burnishing also seems to hide a bit of unevenness at the edges if done carefully. Just a thought that might not cost as much as special-purpose tools...

Something like this was one of the first projects I did when starting leather work. I used furniture or garment leather for the main piece around the flask. Then I carved a tooling leather patch that I laced onto it. I also used tooling leather for the top and bottom. I don't know that you'll consider it fully professional, but it was a first for me. my flask picture bex in Denmark