busted
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Posts posted by busted
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You got'a be kidding. This machine is not worth that kind of money. Seven hundred maybe
The price on this splitter is $1200.00 + shipping. It is as close to a new one as I think you can get. It needs nothing. The blade on it is razor sharp and it comes with a new one as well. There is a Pilgrim on a post in used that is priced at $1000.00 + shipping. Thank you. Ken
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What is the model of this machine?? Perhaps a picture or two.
Thanks for the input. Found an older machine I can pick up for around$500. Have not seen it in person yet but saw a video of it sewing. Guy guarantees it to be in 100% working order. He said it was a singer saddlemaker and will sew up to 3/4" leather. What are your opinions on this?
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Consew Industrial sewing machine, walking foot, reverse - $450 (NW close in)
consew 226 Upholstery sewing machine. Works great, has walking foot and reverse, will sew about anything. Table, motor, everything you need, I sewed boat upholstery in Florida and brought it to Portland. Call Ron at 305-394-2278
This would be an excellent machine for you to have.
Hey folks my First Post!
Im just getting into Softgoods and want to start sewing with leather. Currently I'm using a vintage Kenmore #52 with roller foot, v-90 thread, size 18 needles and a lot of patience. My first bag (4-5oz leather? Over 1/16th thick with a plastic embossed surface) turned out ok but.....anything over 3 layers of leather was causing problems.. duhh lol. Anyways I have a studio apartment and do not plan on sewing tooling leather or anything over 6 oz ( almost crazy for my patterns, types of bags with zippers and such).
Mostly I plan on sewing 3-4oz leather and up to 24oz waxed canvas on a daily basis once school is over. My dining/living/kitchen will also serve as an sewing studio (small apartment). I should have a budget of around $400 and need a machine I can "put away" when needed. Recommend me a machine.
Also I see A LOT of $300-$500 industrial sewing machines on the Portland C.L. would one of these Industrial S.S. machine be better than say a Sailrite knockoff for my purpose if room was not an issue?
Thanks so much
Tony
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I took the original pulley off because it did not work out to the speed I wanted. The 1 3/4" pulley will produce around 300 to 350 spm if you use bot of these on the large pulley and the motor.
There are no bushings or anything the pulley bore is 3/4" the same as the bolt OD. You don't have to modify the machine to install this speed reducer. Just install the speed reducer and change the belts. The motor belt goes to the large pulley the small pulley goes to the machine hand pulley.
Gavin, I'm using the machine for 7 oz total max with 138 thread max so it should live a long time based on what others have been able to get away with on it. Gald you got your machine lined out to a speed to work for you. I as well tried to purchase a servo motor to save the time but ended up having nothing but grief, and I bought a popular model discussed here on the forum. It has forced me to come up with something better anyway so I guess other than getting behind and time lost it will have an end result of a better operating machine overall.
Busted, Yes my motor is 1750 RPM. Do have some kind of bushings or bearings that the pulley assembly you made rides on the bolt with or just spins on the cast hub they came with? Why did you go back to the bigger pulley on the motor first? Trying to see how that would have helped. Maybe you just tried to hit a desired stitch speed you wanted? From everything I have found our machines did stitch 3500 per min which is roughly 58 per second
. If you have it at 800 per min now that is roughly 75% reduction in speed 
. James, I like the idea of a bolt on wheel for the machine. I'm tryint to decide if I want to modify the machine side of things or just put a speed reducer on and leave the machine as is. I wonder if my machine has an aftermarket handle I can purchase?
I think all this information is great guys and will help others slow machines they have/buy down the road.
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OK here ya' go. You might need to make the 3/8ths inch plate 1 1/2 inches longer I had to install a 3/4" spacer on the table in order to have clearance for the belt to fit around the 8" pulley. I milled the face of the smaller pulley to bring the vertical centers of the two pulleys closer. It ended up 1/16inch clearance for the machine belt to the side of the 8" pulley and I drilled the nut and bolt and put a cotter pin through it to hold everything in place.The new belts were the most expensive part of the project. Hope this helps.
CustomDoug, on 22 July 2012 - 12:19 AM, said:Busted - you couldn't post a picture of that set up, could you?
Attached thumbnail(s)
Here is a link http://www.allbrands...-9-pulley-to-be I have one on a clutch motor and one on a servo ..And run another machine with out as I need the speed..
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From 3500spm to 800spm is slow. If you are afraid of the machine then I would not buy one. If you want to sew that slow why bother buying a sewing machine just hand stitch every thing. You might try swapping out my 3 inch pulleys for a couple of 1 3/4" pulleys that should get the speed down to 350 or 400spm or get one of the post and awl machines that will run 300spm.
ahh, I see now. Thanks for the pics, that is helpful indeed. 800 stitches per minute is around 13 per second so to some that would still be considered fast (me
). That's not getting it down to a crawl but I imagine it's just taking the really aggressive speed out of the clutch motor. Or am I off on my understanding of stitch speed? -
OK here ya' go. You might need to make the 3/8ths inch plate 1 1/2 inches longer I had to install a 3/4" spacer on the table in order to have clearance for the belt to fit around the 8" pulley. I milled the face of the smaller pulley to bring the vertical centers of the two pulleys closer. It ended up 1/16inch clearance for the machine belt to the side of the 8" pulley and I drilled the nut and bolt and put a cotter pin through it to hold everything in place.The new belts were the most expensive part of the project. Hope this helps.
Busted - you couldn't post a picture of that set up, could you?
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Guessing that motor you have is 1750 rpm. My motor is this speed. I changed the smaller pulley on the motor for a 3" pulley. I then took a 2" and an 8" cast iron
pulley and drilled 3 1/8th inch holes through the face of these two pulleys. Put these two pulleys together with roll pins. Both pulleys have a 3/4" bore. Next is the mounting bracket. I used a piece of 3/8th's plate 2 1/2" wide 9 inches long with a 3/4" hole one inch from the bottom of one of the ends of the plate it makes no difference which end and bend the other end 2 1/2" from the end of the plate to a right angle. Have someone/you weld a 4"x3/4" bolt in the hole you just made in the plate; weld the head of the bolt. It goes the opposite direction of the bent side. Either after or before you bend the plate drill 2 3/8th or 5/16th holes in the top of your table and match the holes in the plate to the table holes. Align the pulley before you drill the holes. The head of the bolt will be directly below the bend. Drill a hole in your new speed reducer to fit a grease zerk for lubrication of the 3/4" bolt and pulley. This will produce 800 stitches per minute It will not reduce the torque of the motor start up. It doesn't cost very much to do this. Good luck.
I thought I would start a new topic about working with the clutch motor. I think I may forget all about the servo motors and go with some stuff I can set up myself. Here is where I am so far... I now have a pulley that has an inside diameter of 1.175", which has made a big big difference in not only less top speed but I also gained alot of torque even though the stock motor didn't seem to need a boost. After the drive pulley change I moved the linkage over to the left side of my foot control and lengthened the lever on the motor to match with some aluminum angle I had. The linkage was a mess that came with the same so I made new linkage out of some 1/4" 1018 steel I had.
Lengthening the arm helped less than the pulley but it did increase the input I have to give the pedal to make a speed change so it just helps control, although a person could easily put a stop on the linkage or pedal to limit the travel. Having linkage that is nice and straight is helping as well. It seemed to have a catch to it which made me just slightly harder to overcome then it would free up and then my foot would be giving the machine too much pedal input. I thought about making a roller bearing set up but trying to keep it simple and really what I made was free and works fine.
So far I have made a big improvment overall and not had to go buy a thing as I had a complete clutch motor with that small pulley already on it. I really need to get a new belt but didn't want to until I decided on keeping the machine pulley or not. I'm wondering how much more it will slow by adding a bigger pulley on top. Some simple math will tell me the reduction at full speed I guess but this is more about the feel of the machine and useable speed for me not just reducing top speed.
Any and all thoughts, ideas or otherwise are welcome.
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http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/ You should be able to find the machine you need.
I have had my Singer 111w120 for quite a few years with no problems. The other day the timing belt broke. I purchased a new one and now am having a devil of a time getting the new one on. I would really like a manual. If I can't get one for this particular model I'm sure there is a manual for a model enough like it that would be helpful. Hope someone has some ideas. Thanks Pat
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First thing I would do is to ditch the eco friendly junk and get some real leather dye and Resolene as a top coat finisher. Resolene is a sealer it will stop dye bleeding. Dye the piece you want to finish let it sit overnight, next morning buff it out a little and apply the Resolene 50/50 with water; or without water; apply with an old cotton tee shirt or other material. Let dry for 3 or 4 of hours and you are finished. This will not be the first mistake you will make in this hobby don't worry about it just see if the project can be made useful.
quote name='EquusBlankets' timestamp='1341885572' post='255842']
Hi everyone..I have been lurking on this board for a long time, and this is my first post. If I can't figure something out, I can usually find it somewhere on the board, but I'm pretty confused right now:)
I just started doing leather work a couple of months ago, so please bear with me..real noobie but you guys are educating me rather quickly. I'm just finishing a belt, and I first dyed with Eco Flo Hi Lite, let it dry overnight. Then I used Eco Flo Antique Gel, wiped it, polished it fairly well, left it to sit for 12 hours or so. Then, I used Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax, thinking it was a sealer..Of course it took all of the antique off, and some of the dye too. Now I have a hot mess that I don't know how to fix. I'm not sure if it's because I used two different brands of products, or I used the Balm for a sealer and that caused the problem..or it's all of the above!
Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks so much!
Zina
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OK, it does looks like the timing is out of wack.. What is the make of your machine? The timing isn't that hard to fix. What ever your manual instructs you to do that is where I would go to. I have my own method and it might not be to everyones liking. It should take about 10 or 15 minutes to fix. Good luck.
I ran some stitches on a piece of scrap and the back stitch isn't hitting in the same holes.
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If it ain't broke don't fix it. Try a piece of scrap and sew some on it to get everything working correctly again. And check the distance from the needle to the end of the hook on the up stroke just a little over the width of the thread should be about right. The hook should be just north of the needle eye.
I had a thread get jammed in the bobbin and I think the timing might now be out of whack.
The two pictures show the thread single and then with the arrow back stitched.
The single forward stitch looks good but when back stitched it isn't stitching in the same holes which leads me to think the timing might be out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Kevin.
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I would get some winter tread tires with very aggressive tread pattern. I added some photos of the tread that might work for your VW??..
The weather has been foul in the UK this year. More rain than I know what to do with. This means the showgrounds are incredibly soft and muddy and my poor old VW Transporter van keeps getting stuck.Aside from a tow from a stonkin' great 4x4, how do you get a heavily loaded, front wheel drive vehicle out of mud where you come from?
Is there any special kit (winches etc) that might help me get out of the mire on my own? All suggestions gratefully received.
Ray
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This machine has only 9/16" under the pressure foot with alternating feed. It does not work well for leather stuff. You should aim at a different machine
So i have this Singer 7-33 in my sights and i would like to get some feed back from people who have used it.As im considering on buying it. what thickness capabilities does it have, pros and cons..anything you would like to share will help greatly.
thank you!!
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It can sew the belts but not the holsters. It has only 1/4" clearance under the pressure foot. In my opinion the machine is not worth 500. These things sell for around 150 to 350 at auction but you do what you want to.
There is an old Singer 29-4 for sale fairly local to me for $500.
If it is in good working order, and has all the parts ( I don't see the wood table so far, but I could make one) , would it be a good machine for sewing holsters and belts?
Thanks for any comments.
Jake
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All I do to my belts is to do the edge dye. I use Fiebings and sometimes a product called Tuffcoat in black. It is a product of Beilers Mfg. in Ronks,Pa. I do not get rub-off with either. Just finish the strap like you always do but don't use gum trag on the edges it is a sealer too. Let everything dry and then add the Resolene finish. Once it is dry it is water proff. It is an ammonia base product you already know that.
Nice. Thanks Busted. Any suggestions or point me in the right direction how to use it for edge coating?
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My suggestion would be to get rid of the eco friendly crap. Get some Resolene and your problem will be solved.
Hello all, thanks in advance for any help.
I make & sell watch straps, but I have run into a problem with both of my current edge coating options. They feel a bit tacky after drying, and I have noticed some color residue staying behind on my wrist. I had one customer complaint that the black edge coating left a mark on his wrist also. What am I doing wrong? I can't figure it out...
My currently used options are Fiebing's edge coat, which I paint onto the edge after i've smoothed them with gum trag. I let the edge coat dry and thats it. The other option I've been recommended and trying is 5 parts Eco-Flo Cova Color, 1 part Eco-Flo Satin sheen. Same process, painted on gum trag smoothed edge and left to dry. This seems to work great, but this last strap I had residue on my wrist with a little perspiration.
Burnishing is nice but I need options. I have customers that want yellow/red/blue, all sorts of varieties and I need to be able to keep up with demand. At the very least, I am in major need of a black and brown solution to this problem.
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Welcome to this illustrious forum. There are some marvelous craftsmen in here. What model Champion do you have for sale?
I'm a leather craftsman with 57 years of experience as a qualified leather carver and saddle maker specializing in pre-1846 style productions. I'm glad to find this bulletin board and the opportunity to exchange ideas and sell or swap equipment and tools. I'm looking for leather stamping tools, and have for sale a Champion head and many parts. Anyone interested, let me know and I will provide photos.
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I would be hard pressed to pay much more than 100 for this machine. It has had extensive modifications, it is not a sewing machine in the present configuration. It looks like someone has modified it to punch holes in material and not sew it. I have enclosed a photo of what a 132k should look like.
There is a machine on auction in Osaka I have been watching for a few months.
The sellers price is around 500$ but it hasn't sold in 3 months so if I make an offer it'll be around 300-400$
The seller says the machine sews OK and that it's just dirty.
I don't need a super heavy duty machine, I just want something that will let me sew wallets and card cases etc. quickly and more easily than hand punching and saddlestitching.
Here's the auction link with pictures. It's in Japanese but the pics speak for themselves.
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Fifty years is right. This is a lap skiver used in making harness or what ever else you want to skive the end of. The end of a strap us stuck in from the side and the handle is turned to skive the material.
I have an old Landis 2 inch crank splitter. $350 and Ill ship it for free. Blade could use a good sharpening. PM or email joe.j.jones@hotmail.com
Heres a pic of the back side.
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What does a Landis 1 in 1 look like? I have never seen one.
Does anyone know where I can find a cutter blade for my Landis 1 in 1 cutter. I think the number for the blade is C108. Thanks.
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One of these books is on ebay. Item number: 150829249666
I am having difficulty finding a copy of Al Stohlman's book, How to Make Leather Animals. It was published in 1966 by Craftool, Co. Attached is a picture of the book's cover.
I'd like to get a copy, but so far no luck. I've checked E-bay, Tandy Leather Factory/Leathercraft Library and The Leather Crafter's Journal.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!Please and thank you!
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I wsh I waz az smrt az u r.
The Class 4 Cobra comes with a speed reducer. As far as the content of this thread goes, I am astonished how many people here are expressing "Bright Ideas" that have no idea of what they are talking about. Seems "funny" that one or two people are having problems with a machine that the rest of us that own and use them get along great with. If you think you are having a problem with Cobra Steve's customer service, "you might bear in mind, that your are in a teeny-tiny minority!" I have been doing business with this man before he had his own company. In fact I have bought machines from him on 5 occasions totaling more than 5, some new-some used. I have had a couple of little problems with two of them and it has been taken care promptly and graciously. Once someone forgot to pack in some extra attachments I had ordered, one used machine had a motor problem, and I caused a couple of problems by letting Newby's sew on my machine. He didn't charge me for talking me through adjusting my mistakes either. As stated earlier, There is a definate learning curve on learning to sew on a sewing machine. Is it possible for the motor to be bad on the sewing machine in question, of course it is. Is it possible there is some user error here. Probably.
Is it possible that it is a combination of motor problem and operator error both? Could be. If you are using a household Singer sewing machine, you may well not know how to sew with a heavy leather sewing machine or stitcher. If you haven't sewn quite a lot on a heavy stitcher, you probably have a lot to learn.
Properly preparing your work to be sewn on a sewing machine is very important. Having your tensions set incorrectly can cause real problems. Not oiling your machine can cause problems as well as shortening the life of it. For an experienced sewing tech to say a machine is easy to sew on is different than saying doing a good job on a certain sewing machine is easy. I sew belts and skirts on saddles pretty slow. I know guys that burn through them 9-0 and theirs look as good as mine do. They started a long time ago when they were kids and do more of them than I do. Some machines are easier to sew with than others.
As far as the bumps on the bottom go, When I apprenticed under a pretty damn good saddlemaker, we dampened every stitch line in veg tan, tapped it to make it look just a little better. I still "set" the stitch line on about every project I sew. I was told," it is a matter of workmanship"
The motor set up on my Class 4 suits me just FINE! I don't need an upgrade. Just my 2 cents worth! Ken
OK, I'll shut up.
The topic is about a Cobra Class 4, which IS already equipped with a speed reducer pulley. My Cowboy CB4500 uses the same pulley (~3:1) reduction system. By the time the small output pulley feeds the large one on the flywheel, we are looking at anywhere from 8 to 9 times speed reduction and torque multiplication (depending on motor and flywheel pulley diameters).
I am hopeful that this discussion will lead to the development, or discovery of a better motor for these machines; one which won't drive the price up too much higher. There are already better motors available, but they cost a lot more than the servos included as standard equipment.
I can assure you that our dealers are discussing this matter and looking into possible alternatives. However, these new motors need to be tested under load for prolonged periods of time to ensure they can stand up to the heavy loads imposed by big machines sewing heavy leather, with big needles and thick thread.
Landis 30 Crank Skiver
in Old/Sold
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Are you the guy that was out to Weavers auction this June and bought all of their #30's planning on making a killing with them on Ebay for 800 or better. I do apologize I should let go of your leg before you have a malfunction of some sort. Have a better tomorrow.