jrvinny

Thanks for the compliment. I'm sure you're correct about the the screws being easier to install. I hate setting snaps. I knew this customer wanted to be able to carry in his front or back pocket and it would be different day to day. I didn't realize you could unscrew your model with a penny though. That's pretty handy. As for covering the trigger, I knew someone would point that out. I would have been disappointed if no one did! I've changed the pattern since I made this one so it covers the trigger completely. This example was my first pocket holster. I was going to remake this customer's holster but he decided it was sufficiently covered for him. I actually examined that aspect quite closely when the holster was finished and determined with the customer that since you should carry nothing else in the pocket you put your holster in, there's no way you could actually get your finger in front of the trigger while it's in the holster. While on the subject of triggers, I looked at your website and noticed that you mold the shape of the trigger into your trigger guard section. Does that "bump" behind the trigger actually contact the trigger when holstering the gun?

When I first started making IWB holsters I thought heavy retention was really important. I went overboard because the cheap zero-retention holster with a metal clip I was using at the time made the gun feel very unstable and unsecure. Then I carried and trained with those high retention holsters I made and realized that when your pants are up into your armpits before your gun breaks loose of the holster, it's not very practical or efficient. Personally, I think if your gun stays in the holster when you hold it upside down, even if it feels a little loose, you're good to go. Your belt will increase the retention so it's possible to go overboard with the molding/boning, especially around the front of the trigger guard. I can't overstate the importance of practicing your presentation from an IWB holster to refine your retention (and keep your skills sharp). There are a lot of holsters that look fantastic but are not as functional as they need to be, especially in an emergency situation. Unfortunately, it a trial and error process. I've definately trashed a holster or two during the learning process.

Thought I'd put in my 2 cents here. I didn't put too much molding into mine so that it would draw smoothly and leave the holster in the pocket. I left it as flat as I could on the side that contacts the panel/pants pocket. There is still enough retention to keep it from coming out of the holster inadvertently. You can the holster and gun upside down and the gun stays put but it still draws like glass. It's a fine line on retention with a pocket holster though. Mine is a similar design to IWS380's but I used snaps for the back panel instead of chicago screws. It just makes it easier to take the panel off for front pocket carry. I made it a bit wider to keep it from shifting around in the back pocket. I was worried I made it too wide but the customer says it works great. I'm interested to see how the nub on the slide side holds up. Any critiques are welcome. Always trying to improve designs and functionality.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot.

Reaper, I've just been using Kiwi Mink Oil inside and out on my holsters. Is the Justin Boot Cream okay for the inside where it comes in contact with the gun? I like a flat finish and am not sure which direction to go.

I agree with Reaper. The idea of having a body shield (or choose your favorite name for this feature) is to keep the sharp metal edges away from your skin. Guarding the grip from your side is not really an issue. It will inhibit your draw by keeping you from getting a full firing grip on the gun. You figure that out pretty quick when training and training with the equipment you carry is key. For me, I've found it's best to make it just large enough to cover the sharp parts and not so large that it bites you in the web of your hand on the draw. This photo shows a semi-auto but illustrates my point. The body shield follows the line of where your thumb falls naturally when gripping the gun.

Great first attempt. You will be surprised how much you improve with each holster. I know I was. I have no experience with tooling but it looks like you're on the right track. Thought I would chime in on the covered trigger issue. That's the first thing that jumped out at me when I saw the holster. While the chances of "unintentionally" discharging with a modern double action are slim, covering your trigger completely (not the trigger guard, but the trigger itself) will eliminate that possibility while it's in the holster. A small adjustment on your pattern to cover the trigger won't make your holster any less appealing. Why not take the opportunity to add a little safety, especially if it doesn't affect the aesthetics or functionality? A little safety never hurt anyone...