ljensen

I have only treated with the marine spar varnish spray and polyurethane. I have one honda on a rope I used a lot last fall that wasn't treated at all. It has held up well but it was only used when it was dry.

Definitely wouldn't have to worry about the tip closing up on your rope. Also think of the weight it would add instead of all that wire. MB - Feel free to use this idea, I will only claim half of your proceeds as royalties.

I braided up a new honda last night and thought I would share a different method to stretch them. This is similar to a picture in Bruce Grant's book but slightly modified. I took a large steel cable eyelet and cut in half saving only the rounded end.I hang a hook over this and then attach a 10 lb. weight.

I did some experimenting over the weekend with dying rawhide. I got a nice deep purple from blueberries.

Thanks for the tips. I tried burning it out with the lighter but then I got impatient. I have some of the prong needles but I can't get along with them. I do think getting a long thin awl would help like Shelly said.

Last night I was working on a button and was set to start the interweave. I got the string threaded into the perma-lok needle and went under the first two strings. I pulled the needle through but the string stayed, all but the small bit that was threaded into the needle. Aaarrrggggghhhhhh After trying unsuccessfully to get the little bit of string out, I was forced to finish while using the jumbo needle. Of course I was trying to pry it out with a large sewing needle and my hands were slippery from the braiding soap. So, does anyone have any good ideas on how to get the little bit of string out? This is the second needle it has happened to and I'm dead in the water until I can get some more ordered.

Thanks guys for sharing your experiences and for sharing the pictures. I am still practicing with paracord trying to figure out the nosebutton so it is great to see how the full-time guys get it done. Want2braid - Yes, please post any pictures you have of the process.

I am going to try and bring this back up to the top. I know several of you fellas that went to this. Come on and don't be stingy. Please share any tips and things that you learned while you were there. And Megabit, a picture or two would really clarify things.

Thanks. Those two hondas I tried a spray on marine spar varnish. I need to get one of them tied on a rope and do some R&D to see how they hold up.

Yes, those strings were coffee-dyed too. I basically make a slurry/mud with coffee grounds and water, and then let the strings soak in that for a couple days. Then rinse the string and let it dry out. Make sure it is thoroughly rinsed as the strings are a little jumpy with all the caffeine. After they are dry, I case them enough to split and bevel to the final thickness.

Here are several pictures of some small stuff that I finished recently. The first two pictures are both San Juan style hondas. The second one I tried using some strings that were coffee dyed. A bracelet that I made for my Valentine

I recently got a Hansen cutter and it is wonderful compared to the homemade tools I had been using before. It took me about a year looking at all the different styles of cutters to finally decide on the Hansen. There are two basic types of cutters, one with a split barrel and one with a notched barrel. Split barrels include the Hansen and the Nuebert. Notched barrels include the lacemaster and Wayne Juestke's (sp?) cutter. The main selling points on the Hansen for me are: Cutter, beveler, and splitter all on one tool. the blade is angled instead of angling your string in a notch. String can be cut from the outside of circle compared to a lacemaster where a hole has to be cut from the center. It has a heavy duty splitter blade that is wide enough to handle a wide variety of sizes. Downsides include the challenge of making small width changes to the collars and being able to set the splitter thickness for multiple strings. I have not cut enough string yet for the first issue to cause me much concern. On the second issue, I am working on a small thickness gauge based on some brainstorming with Leatherpownder.

Thanks for taking the time to show the steps with pictures.

Wow, that is very nice. I like the shape of your heel knot.

That is some very nice work. Hope you get it all sold this weekend.

It is looking good MB. I would be interesting in seeing how you braided down through the loop and the neck. What size of string are you using?

Hi MB, just wanted you to know that I feel your pain. I did the same dang thing last night while working on a button. And I had even switched to a different color string.

Thanks for sharing the link on how to sharpen the blades. Also, I had a similar thought about marking lines on the side of the roller at the different thicknesses. This site is just a wealth of knowledge.

I found a used one for a little less than new. However, after going through a bunch of string it is worth every penny spent.

Hey MB, I just got my Hansen last week and I am loving that splitter. My only concern is that I'm going to screw it up when I have to sharpen the blade. The only thing that I would modify would be to figure out a way to consistently split at the same thickness.

Those look nice and I really like how the burner is laced on the first one. I've got one stretching right now. I may have to try wrapping with wire just for the heck of it.

I think it's more of "All right you dirty sumobuck, Let's dance" button.

I would have to agree with the wet noodle analogy. I was amazed how easier everything was with the lacing needle.

Hi MB, why don't you send it up here are I will do some testing on it for you. It looks good and that is an interesting approach with the neck. My only question is the ring knot looks very loose from the picture.

Those look nice. I like the colors you got from the dyes.