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newfiebackflip

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Posts posted by newfiebackflip

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Newfie - I suggest you talk to Aaron Martin http://www.aaronmartin.com/index.shtml they're not far from you, near Kitchener. I found them very friendly and helpful. I dropped in the first time, and set up an account, If you expect to do business volume, they seemed glad to extend business account and discount. I bought a whole side of bridle, but I'm sure they would cut what you need.

    Chris

    Thanks Chris,

    I will give them a call.

    Darren

  3. Posted · Report reply

    My apologies Busted,

    The most I have seen online has been 8-10 oz so I figured the would be the norm for this type of leather. But I would be happy with anything as long as it meets that size requirement.

    It is nice you want these pieces of leather but you neglected to say the thickness of the leather.

  4. Posted · Edited by newfiebackflip · Report reply

    Good day all,

    I am looking for 2 pieces of cut Bridle Leather. I am looking to have it cut 3" wide and 21" wide.

    Please let me know if you happen to have some or where I can but it cut to size. I don't need a full side as it will go to waste.

    Thanks,

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Ya I am a member on that site. Just joined it a few weeks back, lots of good info and lots of good members.

    From what I gather is that .25 micro's is all around a perfect paste for stropping straights.

    This is a very interesting subject. This is the first thread on this site that I've seen on the subject of razor strops. I've been wanting to start shaving with a straight for a while, and have been very interested in making strops. I've been shaving with old Gillete safety razors for a few years now. I've been lurking on "Badger and Blade", and "Straight Razor Place" for a bit. Are any of you members on either of those sites?

    "Are you doing any king of surfacing, or grain correction (sanding, boneing, carding, combing ext) to the leather?"

    Chef, when you talk about "grain correction," specifically sanding on the grain side, what grit of sandpaper are you using? I would imaging it would have to be very fine. Also the other methods are unknown to me. Are any of them similar to slicking with a glass slicker?

    In regards to horsehide for a hanging straight razor strop, I remember reading somewhere that soft rolled is better than hard rolled. What are your opinions on this?

    Have any of you used bridle leather? I would imagine it's draw being lighter than latigo, and heavier than horsehide.

    Paul

  6. Posted · Report reply

    BAZINGA!

    Thats the exact dye that I am using! It is slowly coming back to me now. Crap you would think I was 98 years old!

    Thanks again Dwight.

    Darren

    I use a spirit dye, British Tan, . . . that needs almost no buffing to remove the leftover pigment.

    At the other end of the spectrum is USMC Black, . . . that almost seems to spawn more pigment as you buff and rub. I know it doesn't, . . . but sometimes it just seems that way. When I get done with the project, . . . I am so pumped with the USMC Black, . . . but until I pronounce it done, . . . UGH, . . . that pigment gets all over me, my desk, my clothes, . . . I scratch my forehead and it looks like I just came up out of the coal bin.

    All you can do is rub and buff, . . . my personal choice is old, . . . key word, operative word, . . . OLD, . . . washcloths that you never want to use on your personal body again. The softness and broken fibers in them make them really good for the buffing, . . . other guys like lambswool.

    Anyway, . . . get off enough of it so that it shines, . . . and by rotating it under a light, . . . you can see there are no big pockets of pigment laying out there to ruin your finish. I like to then wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel, . . . and apply the finish. Once that dries, . . . touch up the edges a bit.

    Done !

    May God bless,

    Dwight

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks everyone,

    I guess I should of said what I was intending on making the strop for. I am making it for my Dovo Straight Razor.

    I guess I could go with a thick piece of latigo and then make the ends out of vegtan as they will not be used for the honing itself. Carve something fancy in that, i suppose lol.

    CDF the reason barbers have the canvas/linen fabric is to warm up the blade before they start on the strop.

    Silly question, is Cordoven leather from Cordoba Argentina? If so I allllmost got a bunch of it last year for free. Reason I didn't get it is because my mother in law couldn't fit it in her luggage on her way back from there lol

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Dwight,

    Thanks for the response that is helpful.

    Now what about the residue left from dying? Feels like im trying to remove it for half an hour with no real result.

    Newfie, . . . dye it first. Oil it later on.

    In fact, . . . is there some deepseated overpowering desire rooted from your childhood experiences that force you to oil?

    (Just kidding of course)

    If you use Feibings Oil dye, . . . you don't need to oil it afterward, . . . many do, . . . but I have never seen where it does anything tangible beyond adding 2 steps and an extra expense to the finished product in many cases.

    May God bless,

    Dwight

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hey all,

    Been a while since I have done any leather work. I need to jump back on the bicycle and get things done.

    I am basically self taught besides watching a few vids on Tandy's site and being taught the Saddle stitch by Steve @ Greenman Leather a few years back.

    My question/questions are dying and buffing related. I cannot for the love of god remember if I have asked this else where, I cannot seem to find it.

    I like the feibings dye's a lot more than eco-flo, that I do remember. But what I do remember is that feibings has a powder residue that seems to take me hours of buffing to try to get rid of it.

    Should I always be putting neatsfoot oil on before and after dying? I have never done it before and I have seen a few posts suggesting it. Will it help with the residue?

    Any buffing tips to help me buff it quicker and better? Also if I am to put neatsfoot on after dying, is it done before or after the resolne?

    Not going to lie, i feel like a total jack a@# for asking and I am slightly embarrassed but I guess this is the only way I am going to learn is by asking.

    Thanks everyone

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I would like to bring this post some what back to life.

    I just went for a shave at the barber the other day and he used a nice dovo blade to give me a nice shave.

    Now I am go hard on learning how to use a straight razor and hopefully not cut myself like I got a shave from Sweeny Todd. I know a strop is going to have to be made in order to hone the blades.

    I have seen many different topics about strops on various sights. Some say only latigo leather should be used.

    Would i be completely out to lunch if I were to carve some sort of design on the leather just to customize it a little better? Or would it just get ruined from honing the blade?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Makes a lot of sense.

    Thanks for the help.

    White paint has a heavier pigment than any other color simply due to the need to reflect more light and cover more of the spectrum, especially pure whites like Zinc and Titanium. This pigment is what sits on the surface of the leather and builds up as you work towards even coverage. Unfortunately due to this it has a tendancy to create a shell like structure whereas other colors don't need to be applied as thick (as many coats) to achieve the same brilliance or depth. This shell is what is cracking...long story short, the paint is too thick in that area. Best solution is to thin it 50/50 or 30/70 and apply dry brush or white wash coats. They will still build to a bright white but won't build it as thick as quickly. Another thing to do is to allow a little more time between coats to ensure they are totally dry. If a coat is left wet at all under the next coat, they essentially combine into one thicker coat. Letting each one dry completely ensure that each layer is separate and will help with the flexibility.

    Cheers,

    Chris

  16. Posted · Edited by newfiebackflip · Report reply

    Hey everyone,

    I am looking for a pattern for a service rifle sling. I know where to get the hardware thanks to the search bar, but a pattern not so much.

    I have a wounded veteran friend who wants one for his newly acquired M1 and he has asked me to make one. If anyone could help, that would be absolutely amazing.

    Thanks,

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I'm not too sure about Resolene I've never used it, I use either Satin Sheen thinned with water or the sealer from goodsjapan which are acrylic based.

    Cheers,

    Clair

    Satin sheen, isn't that the stuff Tandy put out? I just picked up a ton of acrylic paints from a local arts and crafts store they had on sale. $0.99 per 57ml bottle.

    Needless I bought more than a couple to try out. I am playing around with it right now and trying to do an outline for a letter stamp is proving difficult even with the thinnest brush I could find. Not sure if I need to make the impression deeper or use a tooth pick to try and get the result i require.

    But thanks again for your help,

    Darren

  20. Posted · Report reply

    No you don't buff acrylic paint what you paint on is what you get, buffing is only for dyes to help remove the extra pigment that comes to the surface.

    Yes you can use acrylic paint in airbrushes it needs to be thinned though with water to about the consistency of milk, one type ready to use straight from the bottle is Createx Transparent there are other brands around but this is what I use when I need to use paint.

    Cheers,

    Clair

    Thanks Clair,

    Also will any Resolene work as long as its cut 50/50 or should it be the acrylic type?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Hey everyone,

    I have just finished creating a traditional fold over pattern for a knife sheath. But I am having some creativity issues with what I would like to tool on it.

    The guy I am making it for is currently serving in the Canadian Forces Artillery. I was thinking of doing something sorta related to his trade but didn't want to make it tacky.

    Not really looking to do any sort of western or floral designs either. Not sure if this is going to be one of those less is more projects or not.

    Any thoughts or idea's?

    Thanks

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I was curious if anyone has made a "shot bag" or "sand bag" for metal forming before?

    I would just like to know what would be the best type of leather to handle the constant pounding and punishment that comes from the hammer and metal. For the most part, the ones that I have seen on the internet are made out of cowhide (thats what they label it as on their sites) but could latigo or veg-tan bends work? The average thickness that I have seen is 3-4 oz.

    Should something like these bags be sewn with a machine or would hand stitch work just fine (double stitched of course)

    Any info is good info unless its try google.

    Thanks for looking and your input.

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