bronc701

Looks good, I read the other posts and had to go back to see what they were talking about. So I doubt wnyone will notice unless they have it in there hand and are inspecting it. Good Job.

I have since purchased an airbrush and am witing for it to come in. I was using the preval sprayers before and they are not consistent with the flow. I did another holster real light with resolene and it dried out real quick and smooth. I will be buying some better tools in the future but already have some tandy stuff so I will deal with it for another month or so. I am assuming there is a post on here listing good tool makers and will look that up when the time comes. Also just got a box delivered by ups from tandy with some leather and dyes. And I guess we will find out how good the service really is cause quart bottle of resolene leaked and got on 2 double shoulders. I called them and am awaiting a phone call from the manager to see how it is going to be taken care of. I greatly appreciate the comments on my work and will post more in the future.

It looks good, I have some more to post but the pics were to large to post so I will have to adjust the camera. I am looking for an airbrush and hope that I can put it on a little thinner. It seems to help going thinner with the resolene. I will post my other work on here in the future.

Ok, here here is one of the pics. This was done using the preval sprayer that is sold by Tandy. I used one normal coat of light brown oil dye and then put a second coat along the edge to darken it a little. Then used resolene to finish it. On the resolene I had sprayed it on using the spray unit mentioned above. I have noticed that resolene leaves a tacky finish even if given a few days to cure out. Is that normal?

I started out using the eco flo and the alcohol based but was having some problems with die rubbing off also. I since switched to oil based and the only problem I had with it was getting an even finish. I used a spray bottle from Tandy and got good results but you have to watch out for the spatter. I am looking to purchase an air brush to try and do some fading. I also tried spraying on resolene but it puts it on way to thick. I will have pics on here soon.

Ok, I just finished a holster and will post the pics on here probably tomorrow. But have you ever had any problems with resolene leaving bubbles or have a hard time getting an even finish witout it running? I have worked out my issues with the oil dyes but but the actual "clearcoat" is a different story. I have used resolene on about 6 different items and it wants to run or leave bubbles when applied with rag, sponge, or spray. I do greatly appreciate the feedback. Also what brand of basketweave tool leaves the most detailed or defined pattern? I used a tandy cheap one and when I folded over the holster it kinda stretched out the pattern and made it look faded.

Ok, so you dip the edges of the holster in neatsfoot oil, correct? Or do you dip the edges in the oil based dye? I know I am making this harder than it probably really is but I dont like to create waste. I have used neatsfoot oil on some of my stuff and have a hard time getting it to darken the leather, I didn't know you could mix the neatsfoot with the dye, that is a pretty good idea to try. Thanks

Thanks for the help on this, and sorry for the late response. I have been sick for the past 2 weeks and am just now getting back to it. Time to play catch up on holsters. Once caught up i'm gonna give this a try and we will see what will happen. Thanks

Excellent video, I was wondering how this is done and I think you hit the nail on the head. I am curious to see your video on tanning the skins. Also loved how you used the kitchen, I would do that just to freak out my wife. She hates snakes.

Below is a link to a holster site. It should show a holster set with a "sunset" finish. I am interested in making something like this and would like some input from experienced people on the best way to approach this type of finish. I am assuming the light area is simply a clearcoat but how do they get it from black to light brown with the light speckling. This is probably a really dumb question but after construction do you apply neatsfoot oil before using an oil based dye? What is the process step by step for using deglazer, oil based dye, neatsfoot, and resolene? If you can help please spare me a couple minutes of your time. Thanks http://www.mernickleholsters.com/pssys/ps6sys1r7.html

I have often thought about doing something similar to this. It is a great idea and should work great. However the one thing I would change would be not to press in tight around the chamber simply because a lot of them are not polished or rounded on that part of the slide and it will hang up. As an instructor of concealed carry and some experience with holster making I have found they can be formed to tight and will keep the gun from being drawn quickly. Another draw back is that portion of the leather can be cut from the slide and you will end up with a piece of it on your gun every time you draw it. I hand form mine and it works great. I know a lot of people dont want to dpend the time doing it or want a perfect look of a gun on the outside of the leather but if so I would use a thin leather that will give easier than 8oz. it is simply to thick. Im not knocking this one bit. I would probably preform some kydex sheets so you can choose where and how much pressure is applied. Another words dont form the kydex tight on the chanber opening so when you press the leather it doesn't form it so deep in that spot. Just my 2 cents worth.

I am new to this art but I had the same problem witht he USMC black. I started with that and after having about 4 holsters with light areas even with applying it thick several times I went to the pro oil based dye. Dont know if it was the right procedure but I deglazed the holsters with bad spots and just applied the oil die and it fixed the problem.

Ok, I am new to this site and to working with leather. My biggest weakness is I can make a descent holster but from time to time I have spots where the dye wont take. I can later rub it down and have brown spots showing through my black. Also wondering how do you fade from black to natural and make it look good. Below are my chemicals I am using. I generally clean the leather after the work is complete with a Lexol PH Soap and have even tried saddle soap. I then let it dry and apply feibings marine black alcohol based and let it set until it appears dry and then rub it down and or give it an extra coat. I have some feibings light brown pro oil based but am b\not real confident in using it. The whole brown areas showing through is really annoying. Also what cloths are the best and cheapest to use for the application of finishing products. Thanks