Tentman

Hello Folks I'm about to start a new project - a lightweight Halfbreed (Aussie tree with fenders etc) with a sort of skeleton styling, its gonna be a my new starting saddle. Tree is a Chicago Stockyard. 20 or more years ago I did a slick fork with a one piece seat/jockies sort of like a mochilla or Hubbard and I think this is the way to go on this new project. However I seem to recall that I had to have two goes at getting the seat right in the early one, quite an expensive mistake ! Now with the benefit of the 'net I've been able to look at a lot of pictures to see what to do, but one thing I can't figure is why on many saddles there is a join down the centre of the seat . . . was this to enable the saddler to get a better shape to the whole deal, save mistakes like mine or what ?? Thanks - Foster

Hello Folks I'm real interested in what sort of glues saddlemakers are using these days when fitting seats, swell covers and the like to the tree. 20 Years ago I used to glue after they were shaped but before they were completely dry with latex type glues but there must be a better way now ! Thanks Foster

Hello Folks Those building Aussie style saddles claim that stirrup hangers give them better (freer and more range) swing for the stirrups - as opposed to hanging them over the tree bars. Are there any kinks to shaping the tree bars (or other parts) to maximise swing ?? Thanks - Foster

Hey - Thanks so much for the leads Folks, its real hard to buy stuff by mail and get exactly what you want, but when you live at the end of the earth thats what ya have to expect. I'll follow up on all these and see what transpires. Cheers - Foster

Hello Guys My 20 year old boots wore out - they were a set of Canadian handmade low ropers my Mum and Dad picked up for me in Calgary, and were very expensive back then. I fixed them lots but they are now like grandads axe and not safe to ride in anymore - especially now I've just started a young horse and might just end up walking home one day yet. We don't see any of your manufactuers everyday boots down here in NZ, usually only cheap dress boots. Money is tight so the budget is US$130. I don't need leather soles necessarily, we are at the wet end of the country so mud is my friend in the winter and spring, maybe in a cheaper boot a composition sole is a more reliable bet ?? Can you guys give me some opinions on what brands and styles I should be considering as real good value for money, I've been looking at the likes of "Ariat® Sierra western work boots" and "Dan Post Waterproof Western Work Boots" on Sheplers. Many thanks

Hello from across the ditch . . . You should be abe to find a copy of Robin Yate's old saddlemaking book (probably from secondhand shops, I doubt its still in print) - He was an Aussie and his book is good. Many years ago a cobber and I built saddles with no one to ask (now we have the net and all the good folk here etc.) using just this book. My first saddle wasn't too much to write home about but I still have it and use if frequently. The second one was 200% better in terms of finish and 20 years later is my everyday using saddle. You have some good tree makers over there, Bob Wattus springs to mind. Thing is unless you are a do things "right first time" sort of person I feel that sometimes its best to start with an inexpensive tree like a Ralide (just watch all the custom guys here scream) and "knock one bastard off" just to learn on before you go all out. Worked for me. You don't need any machines, I'm on abuot saddle 7 now and still do everything (including ALL stitching) by hand, its only about 10% more hours in a saddle I reckon. I'm just about to do my first Aussie Stock saddle and the inexpensive first test peice is the way I'm going. One other thing thats useful to understand hanging out here with folk who are consumate professionals and true artists: "Amateurs practise till they get it right, professionals practise till they can't get it wrong" Cheers - Foster

Hello - Some years ago a friend and I went "halves" in a side of skirting leather to make reins, and the hide we got was at least 5/8th thick at the neck end (I've got several sets of reins from it still). I don't exactly recall how we ordered it now but I think it was an "unthicknessed" hide. I do remenber that there was a lot of work getting it thin enough at the working part without "having disasters" and cutting to deep. Down here in NZ thats not all that much use but I'm sure if you ask a few suppliers you'll get what you need. Just be aware that although you get quite a few sets of reins from a side, they work out quite expensive for the really good ones close to the back. Cheers Foster