Jesleright

did a quick search and found a topic that answers my question. (mine was $35, too. No other bidders.) Going to give my "new" old knife a much needed resharpening. Still surprised at how these knives sometimes sell for so low.

Recently bought this CS Osborne knife. What does the XX marking indicate?

Brettuns Village recently got some football leather in stock.They state that it is 5.5 to 6 ounce, which would be good for a tote bag https://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/leather-sides/football-leather-on-sale/

The Angelus Brand makes a matte acrylic finish. Here is a link to their store: https://angelusdirect.com/collections/acrylic-finisher

That Hand Made Shoes for Men book is look at the steps of bespoke shoemaking. It's not a how-to book; It's more of a "How It's Made" kind of book that you would see on somebody's coffee table. The Bespoke Shoemaking book by Tim Skyrme is very detailed. He only teaches how to make shoes with lasts, though. If you can find a good source for lasts, then i highly recommend his book. If you are in the USA, you can order this book from http://www.walrusshoe.com. You'll need to call to place an order. He also has other shoemaking and last making books, as well as some lasts. The books by George Koleff are also worth a look. i have the Last Designing and Making Manual. It is a good book to have if you want to make your own lasts. i'm sure his other books are good as well. There is a dvd set called Healthy Handmade Shoes by Glenn Leisure. This one is $150, and teaches how to construct Veldeschoen (lastless) shoes. You can find the website here:http://www.healthyhandmadeshoes.com/dvd/ . I don't have this one, so i can't say if it is any good.

Sounds like an interesting experiment. Does the coated thread leave wax build-up in the machine?

Being C.S. Osborne, it should definitely work. It's the no-brand snaps that ya gotta watch out for. I've got one of them snap setting kits from SLC, and there are unmarked snaps i have that won't fit in either the 20 or 24 die.

For 9-10 ounce un-skived, i use 1/4" posts, but since you're skiving it, 3/16" posts should work. When figuring out what length post to use, remember that 8 ounce leather is about 1/8" thick. Sounds like you are skiving to about 6 ounce thickness. 6 ounce = 3/32". 3/32" x 2 is 3/16". The leather will compress some if the post is slightly too short, and that's ok. If you go too long, it will slide around, possibly getting caught on pant loops, and the holes might stretch. Something else to remember when installing chicago screws is to put a dab of thread lock on the threads of the screw. Make sure you use the kind that isn't permanent.

Greetings fellow leatherworkers, I've recently designed a wallet pattern that includes a bar snap for closure. The snaps are from Springfield (which are the same as Tandy's snaps). Difficult to set, and the male part (a ball-bearing soldered onto the bar) broke off of one while i was setting it (i do use the bar snap setter tool). Finding the proper leather thickness for the socket was frustrating, as there are no instructions i could find anywhere on setting them properly. I've searched google, and could not find ANY place other than SLC and Tandy that sell these (and NO place that sells jiffy snaps). Is there really no other source for this style of snap? i could use glove snaps, but that would leave the end of the flap limp.

Howdy BodegBrasil, I don't know anything about the Adler 69, but I do have a clone of the 227R that i ordered from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It came with a servo motor - very easy to control the speed. If that Consew you tested only includes the machine head, stand and motor, then $1.9k sounds a bit pricey compared to what the clones sell for. By the way, this topic is in the wrong section. I would suggest that you start this topic anew in the "Leather Sewing Machines" forum of this website, and include more information on the Consew 'deal' you found (what accessories are included? is there a warranty? is setup included? who is the dealer?). Also mention the type and weight of leather goods you are intending to sew. That should get you more replies, with better answers from those who have much more experience than i.

The one i bought was a single knife.

Greetings, Bought a knife from this seller on ebay; http://www.ebay.com/usr/m16dodge2012. It is pretty hefty; the blade is thick (0.082") and full tang. It was easy to sharpen, but i haven't used it enough to know how well it keeps an edge. Has anyone else here bought from him?

The poly board i got from tandy three years ago was bowed in the center. It has flattened out most of the way since then. If you want to use the one you have, and you have a marble slab, you could try leaving the poly board under the slab for a few days. i don't know how badly warped your poly board is. Getting a new (bigger) one wouldn't be a bad idea though; As electrathon said, those cutting boards are cheap. Jesse

I just use the leather as is; it comes pre-dyed and finished. Here's a couple photos of the wallet i use. In this photo, i circled the areas on the lining that have the most finish rubbed off. And here is what the finish has rubbed off onto. Is this normal wear, or is there something wrong with the leather's factory finish? Jesse

Greetings from WV, I am having problems with Mission Grain pig lining used in wallets. The finish sticks and rubs off onto the wallet contents. Someone who has one of the wallets i made won't use it because of this rub-off. Don't want to sell wallets that have this problem. This is the leather i am using; http://springfieldleather.com/32400/Lining%2CMissionGrain%2CBrn%2CRegula/. Jesse