superpacker

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About superpacker

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  1. If I'm going to stamp, oil, and antique a belt, do I antique the edges? And if so, do I do finish edges before or after antiquing?
  2. superpacker

    Tool For Stamping Reference Lines?

    If I'm stamping a belt, and I want to come in .25" from the edge to start my stamping, I know there are, in theory, a lot of ways I could make this reference line: scroll knife, creaser, wing divider. Each of these would make a line differently, and I wasn't sure if one is preferable.
  3. Love Horween English Tan Dublin leather. Looking to make a belt, and want to dye the edges, but not sure which color of Fiebings Pro Dye to use. It seems like either saddle tan or golden brown would work best, but hard to tell from online color charts. Has anyone perfectly matched up this leather with a pro dye color?
  4. superpacker

    Surcingle Belt w Leather Ends

    That sounds better than anything I've come up with before! Good idea! That's why I post here.
  5. superpacker

    Correcting Belt Hole Spacing

    Is there Any way I can fix this after the fact? I made a belt and wanted holes to be about .6" or .75" apart. Long story, but I miss measured, and as you can see, they are 1" apart, and a hair beyond. Maybe like and 1/16". I know one inch is pretty standard, but I like sub one inch as I feel it offers a more customized fit. It also drives me crazy to know that they aren't even 1" but actually a little more. I also know that using teardrop holes doesn't help things as the holes are longer. Other than leaving it as is, I'm considering trying to squeeze a second teardrop hole in between. Would that look too cluttered? Any chance of a belt hole busting for being too close to another hole? I've also thought of sticking a round hole in between the teardrops. Would that look weird? Any thoughts?
  6. superpacker

    Surcingle Belt w Leather Ends

    Interested in making a belt from cotton webbing or wool webbing (surcingle). The one thing I can’t figure out is how to taper the webbing at the tongue end and buckle end where it meets the leather (see pictures below). Any idea how this is done? As you can see, there is an ever so slight taper, but I’m not certain if the webbing is trimmed or how else this could be done.
  7. First, off, I have a paranoia that if any leather edge on any project is not "sealed" in some way, that dirt and moisture will get in from the exposed edges and ruin the item. Is this irrational thinking? To the more specific question, when it comes to Chromexcel, I know burnishing it is very difficult the results marginal. However, due to its characteristics, I think it makes nice casual belts. And in these instances, I usually won't try to burnish the edges. But is there anything that can be done to seal them against dirt/moisture from entering these exposed edges? I've read somewhere here that Allen Edmonds edge dress for leather-soled dress shoes does a nice job, almost like a paint, at both dying and sealing the edges for small Chromexcel leather goods. Would this work for a belt? Any other suggestions?
  8. superpacker

    Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    No. I know sew is the strongest, but I like to give the option to switch out Buckles so I use screws
  9. superpacker

    Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    Good clarification. I was thinking about center bar Buckles that don’t need a keeper For those I’ve seen one used. But I use two. On heel bars I’ve seen 2 used.
  10. Obviously on a 1" belt or narrower, a single rivet or screw will suffice, but on wider belts 1.25 - 1.5" it seems to me that you'd want to use two rivets/screws, and the first really well-made belt I ever got (and the belt that got me into leathercraft) has 2. But I've seen a lot this wide only use 1. Any method or madness behind these two options? I'd be curious to hear what people say.
  11. Does anyone else do this? I don't have a rounded edge beveler. Just a #2 and#3 flat so far. So when doing belts in the 10 oz range (+ or -) I do one pass on each side, to make a clean 45 degree angle, on either then repeat by knocking down the new edges that were created by the first pass, and so on, working my way towards the middle. Seems to get me a nice round edge with no sharp angles. but haven't seen any online videos of anyone else doing this. So wasn't sure if I was missing something. I think I've read of some people just doing one pass and rounding the edge with coarse grit sanding.
  12. I understand that when used as a finish on hair/grain side of leather that Resolene should be diluted to about 50/50. HOWEVER, I always like to treat/seal the backs of belts to create a strong moisture barrier, especially for belts that will be used in workwear/outdoors settings. In that instance, is there any benefit/determent to used undiluted resolene on the back / flesh side? Or should this too be diluted?
  13. Anyone have one Or seen one they recommend for a door hanger with sleighbells for Christmas decoration?
  14. For belt edges, Black and Chocolate Brown are easy - that dark and you just have to make sure you get good saturation. But when doing a medium dark edge color, like a mid brown, I've found that it can get uneven and blotchy. Any tips for an even application? I've been using an edge marker, and daubers make me nervous due to less control, but I wonder if that would work better here? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
  15. I'm working on some belts in the 9-10 oz range, various US veg tanned leathers, and after I bevel, I normally go straight to burnishing when doing small leather goods. But on these straps I feel like I'm not getting a fantastic burnish and I wonder if it's because the edge is to scraggly after beveling and needs some sanding. Is it recommended to sand after beveling and before burnishing? If so, can you recommend a sanding process?