BAD HIDE
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Posts posted by BAD HIDE
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I agree with everything you said there, but really my "leather is expensive" point is just to remember to budget it in. If you're just starting up (I haven't been doing this that long either) you might have $200 to spend. If you drop $150 on tools, you'll barely have enough for a double shoulder or low grade side, then you got a bunch of tools and nothing to do. After you get the tools and basic hardware, leather is going to make up a larger portion of your budget. I'm with you on not buying blanks and kits. It's much more economical to buy sides and shoulders, and cut your parts from there.
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Phillips Engraving did my maker stamp, they'll glue a little backer plate to it for a little extra and you can use it with any 3-d stamp handle. I did a custom stamp and with shipping was still under $50. Super sharp detail and decently fast turnaround.
Someday I'll have 'em make me a Made in USA and smaller logo stamp too.
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Actually, 15% sounds really high to me.
Checking my last few shipments from various suppliers (never ordered from Weaver specifically, so these are other companies), and the highest I've been charged is 7% of net price. Most go by weight but don't mark it on the invoice, so it's easier to compare price ratios. Prices may also vary because I'm in a major metropolitan area and not out west in the sticks. Pulling and packaging are the cost of doing business, and I expect them to take a few dollars more than what UPS charges, but they're already profiting on wholesale markup. A box doesn't cost that much and it'll cost the same if you put $100 in it or $400 in it.
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As a 3rd floor apartment resident, I can completely understand. Reducing noise is 2 parts -
1. Contact noise - or the sound your hammer makes hitting the tool, and there's not a whole lot you can do except use a different mallet. Rawhide or plastic striking face, then soundproof your walls a bit.
2. Vibration transfer - if the blow gets to the floor and shakes someone's ceiling and walls. Here, you can do a lot, and it comes down to mass and absorption. I used to have a stack of 8 concrete blocks, 4 high, thick carpets between each, poundo and granite on top, and you could set rivets all night long and wouldn't wake a baby. Only problem is 200lbs of concrete took up a bit of space, so I've 86'd that and am just using a few carpet pieces and the stone on a heavy bench, with some chunks of carpet under the legs.
If it's still not enough, I just turn up the radio a touch and keep the pounding to the daylight, 10 am -10 pm, and spend the nighttime cutting out parts, sewing, swivel knife work, dying, edge finishing, and designing your next project or cutting pattern.
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Books - Al Stohlman's How to sew leather + Art of making cases, belts, holsters - whatever you're into. I've found Stohlman's books to be excellent for beginners and not-so-beginners.
Cutters - a regular utility knife can do just fine until you can get something better, and a strap cutter.
Sewing - harness needles, beeswax, thread of your choice (plain Barbour's linen thread for me) straight awl, saddlemaker's groover, overstitch wheel tool
rotary punch + bigger set, cutting board, smooth flat stone, contact cement, neatsfoot oil, top finish (acrylic, bag-kote, clear-lac) edger, skiving tool, and probably more that I can't think of. One thing to remember, the basic tools are relatively cheap and it's easy to go hog wild. Just make sure you still have some money for leather 'cuz that gets expensive too.
Focus on a project or two you want to start with and get the leather, tools, and hardware to do it, then slowly expand from there.
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Kind of depends on the bag you're making, but there's pros and cons to both. I keep snaps away from the exterior, if it's exposed on the outside of the bag, a snap might not keep the pocket closed if you brush up against something and the flap snags on something. Snap pockets inside, or under a larger messenger bag type flap are fine. Buckles are the sturdiest ways to keep things closed, but they're also the slowest to open. Also, keep in mind all your other hardware options - Magnetic catches, clasps, straps and 2 d-rings, plastic side squeeze buckles, etc.
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I have a tax id here in VA, and it gets me the business prices at Tandy, which significantly reduces my cost. Works for me.
It's very easy to get a tax id number. If you're going to get a custom stamp and sell your stuff to strangers, you might as well get an id number. Keep good records and you might even be able to land a small business loan or grant for that sewing machine.
My main problem with my "hobby business" is I'm a terrible employee. I never show up on time, sometime never even show up, I tend to do projects and steps that are fun while procrastinating on things that aren't. Today was my day off, and I cut about 6 wallet backs out, then I spent the whole day out bike riding and hanging out at a coffee shop, then watched a movie. Didn't even get to cutting out any wallet guts.
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Most suppliers will sell pretty decent stuff, I haven't really gone wrong with Springfield Leather, Zack White, and Siegel's. Then again, I'm kinda not so picky as half the things I make are made to be a little distressed and broken in - So I buy as much of the D grade as the premium, and I get very small orders - usually just 1-3 hides at a time - from all of those.
As far as belt blanks go, IMO, make 'em yourself. If you're not pressed for time or have a big order, you can turn a hide into a pile of strips in just a few minutes. 4 punch holes, 1 oblong punch and 2 taps with a strap cutter punch (or just cut it with a knife) and you're pretty much done. It's economical - a 1 1/2" belt is about 0.6 sqft of leather, and even with $8sqft leather that comes to less than $5 a strip. The lowest I've ever seen blanks these days go for about $9 a piece, and this way you can be sure you're getting top notch stuff, cutting around the defects and what have you.
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Anyone that takes some pride in handcrafting products hates this kind of thing. Mass production masquerading as handmade is one thing, but so much of what we buy is made overseas. It's not that the purses are any better or cheaper, they just have a much bigger profit margin than any US factory could achieve. Can't blame the retailer, she probably never thought about it either. It's a perfect moment to hand her your business card.
I buy USA when I can, but it's tough when you're not a millionaire. I just try to keep my head down, do my thing, do it well and hopefully somebody will buy it.
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Nice site and excellent work. The phone # thing is up to you, I don't use mine simply because I only have one phone. I mainly use that for my real job and if I didn't compartmentalize, I'd go crazy. I give it out regularly to clients and customers, but you gotta e-mail me first so I know what's goin on. I have both my business emails set up to reroute to separate folders into my personal inbox - and I check that at least a dozen times a day.
Couple of little things - The handgun list is the only page that I have to side scroll, so if it was one column instead of two I'd just have to scroll down.
And this next one's a little bit of a pet peeve, but never put "under construction" on the front page. Saying "Pictures coming soon" is totally acceptable as most people know small sites are always works in progress - hell, there's plenty of big companies that have "pics coming soon" boxes. But "under construction" is almost the same as saying "not open for business yet." Sites don't have to be super fancy and 100% complete, a single page with your name, pics of a few holsters, and and e-mail is totally fine. If it's truly "under construction," it shouldn't be up.
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Neat little design. I'd probably produce it without the zippers and just a flap closure with a magnetic button catch. My sister has been asking for a hip pouch that I could see this kind of thing working for. Biggest thing I've dealt with design wise when coming up with belt bags is they can't look like fanny packs. Things that are more vertical and more versatile always go over better.
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Depending on what you're making, and what machinery you have, you don't need much space. I'm crammed into a 9X12 spare bedroom as well, and more than a corner of that's for oil painting, but having everything compartmentalized and portable really opens up the room. Tables that fold up or down out of the way, shelving to store everything, and tools all in totes or smaller cases so you can just grab what you need without having them all out all the time really helps. I had hardwood flooring, but since it's a rental and the floors are really nice, I picked up a couple of super cheap outdoor 6x8 carpets that I just threw down to keep it nice. clean up with a regular household vac is totally doable. Where I'm gonna put the Cobra when I can afford it is another story.
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Well, if you make the argument that what your producing is a fashion accessory - wallets, purses, holsters, boots, bags, etc. - have no fear. There is no such thing about copyrighting a pattern for an accessory or article of clothing. It was decided a long time ago that you couldn't copyright fashion, or else someone would've gotten the copyright on basic utilitarian items, like an ordinary T-Shirt, and every company who made t-shirts would have to license through them. And it still holds true today, where designs on the runway in Milan are essentially fair game for anybody to recreate and sell. Affordable but hip clothing stores, like Areopostale and Urban Outfitters, are built on ripping off designers. You can make cell phone cases that are absolutely identical to Tandy's, down to the stitch, and as long as there's no Tandy logo on it, you can make thousands.I use a lot of patterns that I've acquired over the years form various points. Each of those patterns did come from a printed document. Tandy had the "Doodle Pages" back in the day and offered it to everyone to use. Not copyrights of any sort. Using the cell phone case from Tandy as your own pattern is not infringing on any copyrights because if go and look in any country/western stores, you will find cell phone cases that are almost identical to Tandy's. If you change any portion of the pattern, its yours. Plus, I can only assume that you are not selling it as a "Tandy Original". No true leathersmith will every do that!! I make key fobs for some local colleges fraternaties. I use a fleur di lis stamp and put the colleges letters under it and use "like" colors when staining/painting. Those fobs sell like hot cakes. I DO NOT advertise the product as "official" collegiate products. It is something that I have come up with and ANYONE can do it. The only thing that I claim as official is the leather I use and myself, a leathersmith.
If you do not use the terms "Official Gear" or "Lisenced Products", you are in the clear. If you change ANY portion of a drawing or pattern, you are in the clear. Just don't change a color and hope for the best. Use your craftsman brain and make a change that will make a product better. I've enjoyed making changes to patterns and I have found that lots of other people like it as well.
Good Luck!!!
Logos are a completely different story, which is one reason why big designers like Gucci and Louis Vuton put their logo all over everything - it's more obviously a knock off if 90% of what makes the bag unique is the hardware and pattern stamped onto the outside is all logos. Knock off guys will just alter the logo a touch, like Niikes or SQNY, and make nearly identical products. Simple fact is, you can't put a logo that isn't yours on your product. If a Harley guy wants you to put an emblem on your work, that's getting into officially licensed product territory. I might do it quietly as a custom one-off, but I wouldn't be advertising it or making inventory with it.
Recreating artwork is touch and go. Redrawing an image or recreating it in another medium makes it your own, but it's still kinda low to turn around and print it on thousands of items. The more something is copied, the more it becomes a piece of folk art and part of public domain. "End of the Trail" is a pretty famous image and theme, so even though the original artist had no intention of seeing it as a statue or on a belt buckle, he licensed or allowed enough people to copy it without litigation that it's no longer his alone. Which is why Disney goes after anyone using their characters, if you let a few people slide, it opens the floodgates and sets precedent that it's ok.
As an artist, I've caught a company using a piece of Tattoo flash that I drew as a border/background for their advertisements - one clearly had my signature visible in the corner. I drew it, copied it and sold it to plenty of tattoo shops with the intention of allowing tattoo artists to make money off of the design, but in no way did I authorize it to be used as an ad. I went after them with a cease and desist letter and a lawyer, which the settlement barely paid for and the headache and stress weren't worth it. But if you want to keep your artwork your own, you can't let that stuff slide. I've been asked many times to tattoo artwork onto people, and it's pretty much the only exception I know of. The tattoo is a work of art in itself, can't be reclaimed, and the only person profiting is the tattoo artist but for only a single piece.
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Um, I don't want to be a wet blanket, but there may be some legal issues with these things.
Depends on where you live. When I was in Portland, I could've had a blackjack hanging from my belt, butterfly knife sticking out of my pocket, and one of these on my hand as I wave to the cops, and they'd wave right back. Meanwhile just a few hours north, collecting them in your home, much less carrying them, is illegal. This is just a simpler version of a sap glove. As far as manufacturing them, I'd keep that on the DL wherever you are unless you're 100% certain it's legal. But this is leatherworking, and this is a viable market.
I've made a few of the shot filled rounded saps, and carry a mini one in a hidden pocket on the bottom of my backpack even though I'm not sure if it's legal here. I live in freaking gang territory and bike everywhere. I have no intention of using it, and have gotten into a few bar fights with weapons in my pocket, but never pulled it. It's not a gun or a knife, but it'll seriously mess someone up in the brain pan. A friend of mine was jumped a month ago and was able to get away by using his bike u-lock.
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Nicely done.
I have a very broken in similar saddle, and suddenly have a good urge to see if it's possible to track down where I could get bare frames. As an avid cyclist and I know plenty of people who'd love a personal touch to their bikes, a plain Brooks saddle starts at over $100 anyway. I'm thinkin some 8-10 oz with a tooled 3-4 oz top stitched or laced together over the bolt heads, or just some straight saddle skirting....
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Getting back on topic... sorta...
A first sewing machine is a huge step for a hobbyist. I don't have one, and even though it'd help me a ton, I don't have the production need for one yet. When I feel I have a decent little side business going, enough patterns and sales humming along, I don't intend going cheap - it'll be straight to the big time with as much machine as I can save up for. It's not that I'm scared of broken machines or even unfamiliar with sewing - I worked in a tent repair and awning shop for most of my college summers, so I can sew fast and hard as any. I know what those industrial grade sewing machines can and can't do, and most cheap ones will not work well for the leather we use. They'll do it, but not happily. I have the experience to use and fix and adjust a lesser machine or a used machine, but ironically, I don't want to have a sewing machine repair hobby. I want to work with leather - so for now, I do it by hand. That means not taking on projects with lots of sewing - so no lined belts or guitar straps, not much for intricate bag interiors and the like. Also, since I'm mainly working with bags and cases, there's plenty of opportunity to make things most sewing machines can't, like boxed corners or cylinders, and do some lacing or use more rivets. I might pick up a cheaper industrial machine someday to sew up wallet interiors or make waxed canvas bags, but even that's not really that important.
Basically what I'm saying is a lesser machine doesn't make the hobbyist's life easier. If it takes buying 3 cheap machines to figure out that the hobbyist should have bought the 1 expensive one to start with, they've just wasted tons of time, money and if they just redesigned their projects to be more hand sewing friendly, they could have held off on buying the machine till they saved up for it. Until you buy a sewing machine, leatherworking is a relatively inexpensive hobby to have. My dad is a woodworker, and in the last few years since he retired, he's easily spent 5 grand on his shop for remodeling and new equipment. He's made probably about 3 grand in sales in the same time period. Yeah, that's not a good business model, but he's having a ball. The difference between his old tablesaw and new one is monumental, but his old one still was designed to cut wood. Sewing machines aren't like tablesaws, the cheap ones can't do most of what the expensive ones can, and you can't get far with one not designed to sew leather from the get go.
There's a lot of debate in here about the hobbyist vs the professional, but really when you get right down to the machines, there really isn't an acceptable hobby version. The Tippman is about as close to an acceptable hobbyist model, but even that's out of range for pocket change. So just go pro, you'll have a machine that can do way more than you need it too, it'll last forever, and you'll at least be able to sell it for something later on. Even if you loose a couple grand in the deal, I can name dozens of more hobbies that blow through cash much faster.
A home hobbyist will take years to recoup the cost of a high end machine, but if spending that money makes the hobby more fun, isn't that the point?
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I know how you feel. Small item leatherworking is a great hobby that doesn't require large machinery or even make much of a mess - perfect for apartment dwellers like me. It is, however, quite loud. Pounding late at night doesn't bother my co-habitant, but it's not very neighborly to be shaking other people's ceilings. So for the most part, I just do things that are quiet after sunset: sewing, dying, cutting out pieces, working on patterns and designs, even swivel knife work. You can case leather, cut your design, then wrap it up loosely in a plastic bag and it'l be fine for a few days, I've even put wet leather parts in the fridge for over a week without any mildew problems. It's more of a problem if you're only working on one project at a time, but I've always got plenty of irons in the fire. Say a small bag has 5-6 hours of quiet work and about an hour of loud, if I do 5 bags at once, that's a better part of a week of pure quiet. Not to mention I have several sets of projects like this going on at once.
The second thing is to just pound quieter. Rawhide or deadblow hammers instead of wood and steel, and heavier hammers when doing large stamps or punches and the like, so you'll need fewer strikes. There's also what you're pounding on in consideration, the less vibration you transfer to the floor, the better, so you want as much mass and shock absorption you can get. Stone slabs are good, but I took it further. Instead of a table which is light and would transfer the shock directly down the leg, I have a stack of 8 cinder blocks, 4 layers high and 2-4 pieces of scrap carpet between each layer. This puts about 200 lbs of concrete and 5" of carpet between my granite and the floor. I could set stamps with a sledgehammer and wouldn't shake a chandelier.
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Are you clenching up on your tools? If you're holding them too tight all the time, it'll start working against you. Loosen your hand up, take more breaks, stretch, learn to switch hands and tool with your right for a bit, or make up some kind of rubber sleeve you can slip on to increase the tool's grip. If that doesn't work, I'd seek medical advice from a hand doc. It could be that you've spent most of your life not really using your left hand and now you're asking it to do fine motor skills it's not used to.
I've not experienced this while tooling, I don't tool much more than an hour or two at a time, but as a tattoo artist, my right hand is clenching on a metal cylinder for hours at a time. I started with 1/2" grips and after about a year I switched to 1" grips and the difference was huge. Now I almost always use a rubber sleeve on the outside of that, so the total grip size is about 1 1/2" - it's like giving a fat crayon to a little kid instead of little ones because the fat ones are easier to control and hang on to.