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billcurley

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Posts posted by billcurley


  1. Does anyone here have or can you provide some photos and hopefully dimensions of an original drawer for a 29 treadle base.  I recently bought a 29K 172  and the base is missing the wooden drawer as I'm sure most of them are.  This is a much older base than the machine and someone at some point in time created a plate to adapt it for the machine that I bought it with.  I haven't tried putting the head back on but I am slightly concerned about belt length since the machine is 1/4" higher than it would have originally have been.  I would like to try to rebuild a drawer that is as close to the original as possible.  Spent the last week media blasting priming and painting the iron, just got it all put back together and would like to have a place to store bobbins and the threading needle.


  2. On 8/26/2018 at 6:16 PM, malabar said:

    When I was starting out, I bought all my tools from my local Tandy. When I started pounding on a big strap end punch, the edge crumbled.  As a longtime woodworker, I can sharpen anything, but the steel in that tool was junk. I went back to Tandy and asked the manager if there was anything of better quality.  He was pretty blunt. "I won't buy that crap. Get your tools from Osborne."  

    I took his advice and have never looked back -- strap-end punched, round punches, bag punches, rotary punches, you name it. They hold up well and resharpen easily. I also have a few of the Weaver Master Tools, and they'er very nice indeed. 

    I do still use the little edge rounders from Tandy (all my big ones are from Osborne).  

    The "Old" Tandy tools were nice, the new ones are absolute garbage, Osborne,  Weaver and King are very good quality tools


  3. CowboyBob,

    Probably not the place to ask this, but I'm trying to find an Embroidery machine at a reasonable price.  I do very little embroidery but sometimes it is the only option to get the detail that my customers want on their guitar straps.  Is there a machine you would suggest or that you may have for sale that will work well on lightweight leather (2/3 oz veg, or 5/6 oz chrome)?  I am loking for something along the same line as my Juki 563, timeless (works well and easy to find parts when necessary) and not too expensive.  If it means changing thread to add/change color mid design that is no big deal as this is not for high production.  Either reply here or directly to my e-mail at info@lyricleather.com

    Thanks in advance

    Bill


  4. I just picked up an S-100 Neva Clog stapler. We used to use them at tandy's to make belt keepers. Does anyone know what equivalent staples currently (and more importantly, EASILY) available will work in it? It recommends A-1000 or L-1000 staples. I have tried Bostich B-8 (1/4" 6mm crown staples) & they seem to work, but they must be specially ordered so I am looking for ones that I don't have to send away for, btw.

    Thanks.

    russ

    So do you or can anyone tell me the difference in the B-100 and the S-100 stapler? I am trying to buy a good stapler for making belt keepers and someone suggested the B-100, guess I'll be looking for staples after I get the pliers, so thanks in advance for the information. :-)


  5. A friend introduced me to Weaver Leather, their quality is great and you can buy single hides or already cut belt blanks. They also offer several other belt products and services such as beveling, edge painting and even embossing if you really want to cheat and are in a pinch for inventory for a show. They can be reached at 800-932-8371. The Buckle Guy is a great source for quality buckles.


  6. Thanks, I thought I was loosing my mind or my touch or something. I had used a friends 563 and had no problem controling it all, this makes sense now. The place I bought the machine from is sending me a servo motor for $50.00 they didn't mention what brand so I hope it works well. Someone at Advance sewing said to me that I may have to adjust the timing as well, tht didn't make sense to me but is there anything else that I will need to be worried about or watch out for if this machine had been previously set up as an upholstery machine? I do not know it's history so anything to watch for would be helpful and appreciated. I want to get some belts and guitar straps built so I will have something to sell this spring, or hopefully sooner if I can get things to go my way for a change. Starting life over at 48 sucks.

    Bill

    When I had a Juki LU-563 (1988), I changed the pulley on the clutch motor to a 2" or smaller size, then got a shorter v-belt to get the adjuster back into the mid-range of the threaded bolt.

    That was before the time of the servo motors. I replaced my last clutch motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor, which comes with a 2" pulley. I calculated the difference in belt lengths, minus one more inch for the new smaller motor body. I unbolted the original motor and wiring and dropped the SewPro onto the bolts (table upside down for easier install), installed the washers and nuts, clamped down the new wiring harness and switch box, up-righted the table, installed the new shorter v-belt, hooked it onto the machine, and have been sewing at controllable speeds ever since.

    This motor will slow down to one stitch every five seconds, and speed up to about 10 stitches per second, all by the position of the foot pedal. It has a knob on the back to limit the maximum speed. If I set it at half way, it can slow stitch about 4 stitches per minute, but it loses top speed, down to about 3 or 4 per second. The motor produces its maximum torque, even at slow speeds, when the control knob is set to full speed. It has built-in 3:1 gear reduction, to help it maintain power at all speeds.

    I bought my SewPro 500GR and shorter belt from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397).


  7. Can anyone tell me how difficult it is or how to go about slowing down my new to me 563 machine? It is in great condidtion but runs like a bat out of hell and next to impossible to control for some of the more intricate topstitching I am trying to do. I have heard that there is a way to slow it down and I probably have all the tools that would be necessary to do the work myself if I knew what to do, or what parts I would need.

    Thanks

    Bill


  8. Is there anyone in the Northern Virginia area that wouldn't mind letting me borrow the use of a machine to complete a gift for a very dear friend of mine? My ancient Singer won't do the job and I would like to get this project finished for him for his Concert/show on the evening of August first. I need to do some accent stitching on a guitar strap and then the finish stitching of the five layers of soft leater together. I know i need a walking foot machine to do this and I don't have the resources at present to buy one. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me out.


  9. I am just about at my wits end with my Singer 19 51, it won't sew soft leathers, does fine for everything else, but doesn't like suede. I have been told that Juki makes one of the best machines, but what model?? should I be looking for a "chainstitch" or "lockstitch" machine? And where might I find a used one, I'm on a very tight budget and can't afford a new machine. There are soo many different brands and models on the market it is difficult to figure out what is going to be my best option. Both of the leatherworkers that I have come in contact with use Juki machines and swear by them but I haven't been able to get back in touch with them to ask their opinions on this. I am in the Northern virginia area so if there is some place close that would be a great help. I'm sure there are a lot of used machines out there, just where to find one??

    Thanks in advance for anyone's input. I am primarily sewing four to five layers of 1.5 to 2 oz leather glued up to make guitar straps and such.


  10. I had troubles sewing soft leather with my other machine and when i took it to the shop for adjustment I was told a 19-51 would work well for what i was doing without the issues of the bobbin not catching the needle thread in soft leathers. While it worked fine for thin layers of pigskin, when I tried to stitch up a guitar strap the other day I had the same issue as I did with my other machine. I have played with the tension with no luck in getting it to sew. Does anyone have any other suggestions, or a good used machine that will work better for me. I wish I could afford a Juki (as i have been told they are the nicest) but I can't at this point and even if I did I wouldn't know what model would make the most sence. Anyones assistance and input is greatly appreciated.post-15739-127980165699_thumb.jpg

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