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srminimo

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Posts posted by srminimo

  1. Posted · Report reply

    For sale is my Junker & Ruh sole stitcher, bought from a German dealer and barely ever used. The machine is in great mechanical condition but needs tension adjusting that is, honestly, beyond my humble capabilities. Includes several extra needles and bobbins and a printed manual. I'm located in Brooklyn, for any local interest and can send nationwide (continental US).

    Price $550 includes shipping.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I'm actually taking a class in making hard cases right now and the stiffener of choice seems to be chipboard. It comes in several thicknesses and feels like carton but it's actually wood. The heavier chipboard will work for a briefcase. Now, I do have to say I HATE working with it, as it breaks easily when applying rivets, locks, and such. Perhaps the chipboard at the school is the cheapest version and there is a better one, otherwise I do not see myself using it again.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hi and thanks for your reply. It's definitely not a custom piece, as I've seen it twice, once on an italian guy who works for Coach, and these pictures are for an Italian shoemaker for Guidi. That's what sparked my attention, the fact that both were master leatherworkers. I'm pretty sure it's made in Italy, but a search for Italian made leather tools is leading me nowhere.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Dear friends

    I'm doing some pieces in Chromexcel leather and I'm wondering what is the best way to clean and polish them for delivery. The leather is VERY waxy and someone recommended to leave it in a hot place so that the waxes came out a bit and polish them with some sheep's wool, but I tried that and it leaves the leather somewhat dull.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    kind regards

    flavio

  13. Posted · Report reply

    post-16253-017530400 1310671465_thumb.pnHello friends

    Does anybody have an idea how this "washed" wrinkled effect on leather is achieved? It seems that it was done after the piece was made, as you can sort of see markings of the card slots on the other side of the wallet and also, even the sewing is wrinkled.

    I have heard it's done with oils, but never with what exactly.

    Any help will be much appreciated.

    sr.mpost-16253-011430100 1310671447_thumb.pn

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Flavio,

    It is a lot like a Singer 153 and I think a lot of the parts interchange. However, Bill's at 301 Main Ave East, Hildebran, NC 28637, Tel: (828) 397-6941 is a big Seiko dealer and could probably help.

    Art

    Hi Art!

    And thanks for your help again! I thought it might be close to a 153, but I wasn't a 100%. So far so good, it has been working like a dream and I have been able to figure everything out, but I definitely want to have a reference manual. Thank you for the help on the Highlead, by the way, you had me convinced, but this seemed like a machine that would do everything I needed, solid, and the difference in money will probably get me enough material to have it pay for itself.

    Kind regards and again thanks for all the help.

    flavio

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hello friends

    After a LOOOOOOONG search for a machine I decided to get a Highlead machine and, of course, while at the store I saw a very nice used Seiko CW-8. Long story short, the guy at the store said he would recommend the Seiko over the Highlead (and I saved a little bundle, too). Does anybody know where I can find a manual for it or, if there is a similar machine whose manual I can use as a reference (I know Seiko actually did some Singer machines, maybe there is a comparable Singer model)?

    Kind regards

    flavio

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Another good thing about these particular machines is that they use Singer 111 feet. There are a whole lot of different feet made for these machines, piping feet, piping or welting feet with cutaway back corners for going around corners; a lot of different feet for different applications and they are not really expensive either. This site has many.

    Art

    Oh. man, what a great site. Thanks again!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    The Sieko LCW8B is also pretty much the same machine. I have 4 Highlead machines and not a problem with any of them. I don't know what type of work you do, but the gear reduction (and torque multiplication) you get from a speed reducer or gear reduction motor is a distinct advantage with leather. Get them to swap out the servo motor for a gear reduction motor, if you have to pay and extra $50, it will be worth it.

    Art

    Thank you again Art. I think I have finally found my sewing machine:) I will definitely ask for a gear reduction motor. I mostly do briefcases, bike bags satchels, that kind of thing, but I have felt the difference with the gear reduction motor when doing piping work in the past.

    Again thank you Art. I'll share some work on the machine when it's finally in my hands.

    cheers

    sr.m

  18. Posted · Report reply

    It is similar to a 335, but it a really a dead ringer for the Singer 153B (the one made in Japan). Great machine, will do 207 thread with a 24 needle, but it likes 138 better. If geared down, it will handle over 3/8 inch of leather but is happier with 1/4" all day long. Like I said, needs to be geared down for leatherwork, a SewPro gear reduction motor would work great on it. Highlead is a respected company and makes top quality product. I don't know if you can find an old 153B, it would be cheaper and if in good condition would do the same job (a lot of the parts are interchangeable).

    Art

    Thank you very much Art. The machine comes with a Servo motor, and I will mostly do #69 and #138 thread, but wanted the flexibility of thicker thread for some simple pieces. So it seems similar to what I was looking at (Cowboy and Techsew), closer to home, a little cheaper, and I can have it in a day or 2!

    I have really looked high and low for machines and I have actually seen a new Singer 153B8 for about the same price, but never a used one.

    I HAVE seen a Singer 153W for a pretty good price with servo and stand, no reverse (which really is not a major drawback for me), but the gentleman sort of hinted that the machine was kind of difficult compared to the other ones and said if I was looking for something I wanted to have for a long time to go for the other ones (Cowboy and Techsew).

    Thanks again!

  19. Posted · Edited by srminimo · Report reply

    Dear friends

    I'm in the process of researching for a medium weight cylinder arm machine and I ran into a brand new Highlead GC22618-1B at a decent price (better price than a new a Techsew 2700 and I save on the shipping).

    Does anybody on the forum has experience with this machine?

    What kind of thread/ weight leather can it handle?

    How is the quality of the machine?

    Their website says this is a similar machine to a Pfaff 335, and it comes with a #22 needle standard, but the guy on the phone could not tell me what kind of thread I could use.

    Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Wiz is right, both machines will do the work that you describe. We have lots of customers who use the Techsew 2700 for leather bike bags, satchels, purses, handbags, wallets etc...

    If you've used a Consew 227 and Pfaff 335 then you'll be comfortable with this machine. Also it includes the SmartServo motor so you can easily control your stitching speed and still have lots of torque for thicker leather.

    Feel free to call us anytime if you have any other questions.

    Thank you Ronnie

    I definitely will in a couple of days.

    thanks

    flavio

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I haven't seen the Techsew 2700, except in videos, so you'll have to wait for Ronnie to answer your question about this excellent machine. However, I have seen the Cowboy 227 and can tell you that it easily sews 3/8 inch of leather, with #138 thread, top and bottom. It will also sew thin leather, with #69 thread. The 227 takes standard industrial walking feet and folder attachments. These are medium duty sewing machines, with 10 1/2 inch long cylinder arms. They are usually mounted onto pedestal half-tables, with bobbin winders, thread stands and flex lamps mounted on top. The Cowboy takes series 135,15/16 needles, but can also use system 190 needles, which are longer and require raising the needle bar. This allows the machine to sew to about 1/2 inch (but still with #138 thread).

    I am fairly confident that both of these machines will sew the work you described.

    Thank you very much for your reply and your help. I have to say, even though this is my first post on this matter, you have already helped me out a lot in the past with all the knowledge you pour into this forum, so a double nod of appreciation for always taking the time to share knowledge and advice.

    kind regards

    flavio

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hello Leatherworkers

    I've been looking around here for a while but this is my first post.

    I'm in the process of choosing my first decent sewing machine and have basically narrowed it down to the Cowboy CB227 and the Techsew 2700 (I have discarded the option of a used machine, as the prices are around the same, and my other option was the Tippmann Boss, but it seems the price is basically the same compared to these machines and it seems it's not as solid a choice for lighter/medium weight stuff).

    I wonder if you can give me some advice.

    I will use the machine mostly for bike bags and briefcases/satchels, but will also work on wallets and smaller leather goods. Mostly leather, but also some Waxed canvas.

    The heaviest I will ever sew (so far) is about 3 layers 5/6 oz - some piping on three layers of 3/4 oz stuff. The lightest ever would be lining, but usually on the medium side of canvas.

    Also, it seems to me the Cowboy could be a Consew 227 clone and the Techsew a Pfaff 335 clone (I have actually used both at FIT here in NY). Is this true?

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Flavio

  23. Posted · Report reply

    English Bridle is stuffed with oils, so if you warm up the leather a little above room temperature, some of these oils will come to the surface. At that point you can polish with a piece of sheep's wool.

    I would like some input on usability of English Briddle Leather, say, for a handbag or briefcase. I tried this leather, but it seems to me that if it finished by common ways (Resolene, or Super Shene, or Tan Cote) it too easily takes fingerntail prints, what is not desirable for a bag that takes a lot of use and abuse. From what I read, this leather is considered one of the best, if not best, for handbags, but I have by doubts after personal encounter.

    Maybe if requires different finish, or additional treatment from tannery (which one then?).

    Any insights will be appreciated. My experience is limited to russet and drum dyed vegtan.

    Thank you.

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