douglais

Yeah, Sturgis was unbelievably expensive, but I found out there's a bike rally right here in Peoria, the Budweiser Grand Nationals, in August. The fee is about one thirtieth (1/30) of Sturgis, and it's big enough to keep me busy for months making product before the show. No driving, no camping, low fees, sleep in my own bed, eat at home. What's not to love?

Still a little hard to see details, but congrats on the armor! Takes a lot of work to get that stuff to articulate in the shoulders. You husband must be pleased.

Good question Ambassador, and I agree, but that's the way they're shown in the old artwork. It's speculated that it was intended for use from horseback where the incoming thrusts wouls be from below. So, I just stuck with the historic info It actually makes for a little more mobility when bending forward. The lames stack up on the outside of the armor, not on the inside, pressing into your guts. Also, the price was $150, not $250. Twin Oaks, indeed. It took me about 12 hours, over a few days to lace it all together.

Pics of my lamellar armor, based on Byzantine paintings and sculptures. Maybe not a work of art, like so many other items on this forum, but functional, comfortable, and historical. About 300 wax hardened plates in the piece. I didn't make them, but purchased them for $250, then laced them together. No dye, just the natural color of waxed leather. I love wearing this piece because it just feels like it grew on me like a shell.

Bobhur, I made the pouch you described, and it's as advertised. Hangs nice, is easily accesible, and it's secure. I've been frustrated for years, trying to make pouches like this easy to use, and you hit it perfect, Dude.

Thanks for the excellent advice. I never thought of that. Anyway, I won't be going to Sturgis after all, since some plans I had changed, so it's a no-go for now.

Good advice...a simpler brain bucket, and CYA labels.

Well, your execution is good, then.

I love the look! It's very bold, in not hiding how it's constructed. It's staying true to the materials, and not trying to hide the fastenings. The art is in showing a little bit of clunkiness with finesse. Excellent balance of both!

Thanks folks. Part of me, after counting the cost, wants to boldly jump into the craziness, and part of me wants to play it safe, and sit at home and take in a couple internet orders. I've never really regretted a bold venture out.

I'm thinking of taking my leather helmets to Sturgis next year, but it's extremely expensive to get in as a merchant. I'm not a biker, I'm more of a living history guy, so I'd like any opinions on whether these helms would be something a biker would like. They're not DOT approved, but I didn't think that would be a consideration for anybody who wanted one. My website is "http://leatherhelms.com". I appreciate any input. Doug Lais

I love the look. Very Norse style scabbard attachment system. I'm gonna steal your idea of using the leather tabs to hold the rings. I've only seen the brass tabs. I bet they don't let you onto the field of combat with that sharp knife?

My philosophy is, if I keep filling it with beer, nobody will notice what coating I used.

'fraid youstumbled onto a subject that has been hotly debated for a long time in many forums. It's also one place where those who know, and who sell their mugs, tend to keep their mouths shut. It's a big secret, even among otherwise friends. Some of them use Envirotex, which is an epoxy-like coating used in food preparation areas, such as counter tops, but not meant for use on actual eating or drinking utensils. The only modern truly food safe coating I've found is Salad Bowl Finish...a shellac-like coating found only in fine woodworking shops. I use it in drinking horns. I know nothing about period coatings, except they're either too fragile (wax), or not safe (tar).

Try this link, "http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=144836&p=2201087&hilit=+glue+hardening#p2201087". If that doesn't work, search the word "hardening", and look for a thread in Jan, Feb 2012, "Hardening Leather: the finer points".

I've done some experimentation with this idea. I've been cuir buoilli-ing the leather parts for my helmets for 7 years with hot water, with good success, and waterproofing them with Resolene. However I want to waterproof the leather both inside and outside, and all the way through, so the helms will never soften in the rain. I tried various coating strategies on already hardened leather, and found that the best coating for waterproofing was SnoSeal. But, a surface coating still wasn't quite what I wanted. I want all the fibers of the leather to be coated with glue for a failure-safe water proofing. I found a fellow on the SCA site, Armour Archives, who had a lot of experience with the glue hardening technique. He uses Titebond III, because it dries totally waterproof, and he uses a blend of 10% glue and hot water. If you reply to this post, I'll see if I can find the thread. I still haven't done the next cycle of experiments, but perhaps work will slow down enough to do them this winter.

"Lorica Steampunktata"...funny! OMG, I love it. you're killing me. The way you incorporated the different gears is clever.

I've made about six plywood shields, and I simulate the planks by cutting grooves in the shield face,. I use wood stain in varying layers to make each "plank" look a little different from the others. I also just use gun blue to make my bosses darker.

Ypu'll need to use the cuir bouilli technique of immersing the leather in hot water, at 175 degrees, for about 90 seconds, then throwing it on your mold. while it's still rubbery. Alternatively, some people like to soak the leather in tepid water, then form it as best they can, then bake it in an oven at 200 degrees for maybe a half hour. If you're interested, there is plenty of info out there on the technique. Armour Archive has a very thorough discussion on their forums.

Would you mind posting a pic of the backside. I'd love to see what I think you mean Daggrim

Aulus, nice to hear from the Old World. On the other hand, I've seen some pictures of some absolutely awesome looking reenactors in Germany. Their average level of clothing would be like the very best over here. I suppose it would be like Europeans doing an American Civil War encampment...a hundred details that would need to be learned online.

Thanks, Barry. I looked at your website, and your leatherwork is beautiful. Those drinking vessels are large! I like how you sealed them with traditional methods. Hope some of your friends can come. Sam and his wife are extremely hospitable, and they lay out fabulous traditional meals. You won't go hungry! Daggrim wow that sounds cool. I wish I lived closer. I'll let my friends in the area know about it. (but they probably already do)

For any of you Viking types, I'd like to invite you to an annual April event at Ravensborg, in Missouri. Ravensborg is a replica Viking hill fort, with a couple longhouses, and there is also a six oared dragon boat on site, on a small lake. Come for fighting, or feasting, or fun, and sleep in a longhouse. It's a living history experience open to anyone who is willing to do their serious best to look like a historical Viking. No other rules than that for participating. See links to website, and You tube. Let me know if you're interested. Doug "http://www.ravensborg.org" "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-WEal2j2VY"

Oh, yeah! I've seen pictures of you guys before. You all are the best...ever.

Medicus, a very impressive scabbard. Also, thanks for the links. Thorkel's things are also something beautiful to behold. I think that those ancient Scandanavians had a gift for making beautiful shapes, and blending them together in harmonious proportions. At least they appeal to my sensibilities more than the items from any other culture. The Vendel and Valsgarde helmets combine the elements of primitive savagery with with exquisite design and craftsmanship.