1911 Operator

Bob, everyone, Thanks for the advice. I will post again, when I find another machine. Jeff

Well, gentlemen, your advice is appreciated, disappointing, but appreciated. Bob, I have contemplated calling you several times, but not done it yet because I felt I wouldn't be able to get much for the $1000.00 or so I can afford to spend. Considering I'm California, and the prices of the machine that I would like to have and my budget. Do I have any options? Should I just hold out until I have more money? Thank you again for your help. I will resist the temptation to buy this machine, and talk to Bob instead.

I don't have a machine currently, I mainly sew by hand, But I have an opportunity to buy a Singer Class 7-31. I looked around online for price considerations, and tried to find some info here, but there isn't much about this machine. The person is asking $1000.00 and I have test used the machine, I'm pretty happy with what it can do so far. Is $1K a good price for it? (includes table and motor and extra Hook, newer Bobbin Winder, and a couple pounds of thread.)

I don't either. All I do is sand it till the grain length is even.

I'm interested in this as well. I found an old polishing motor and made my own attachment out of some cherry wood. I'm terrible at turning wood so I think it looks horrible. But I think it turns too fast. What is the correct speed for burnishing? I will get some pictures of what I have going on a little later tonight.

exactly, live and learn. Looking forward to seeing your next one.

Molding in the Trigger Guard could only effect the trigger if there was enough room in the holster for the gun to pass farther down. The gun line stitching prevents the gun from going down far enough for any molding to effect the trigger. Unless the molding is in the top edge, then there would be a problem. I did see a situation where a CCW'er had a older well used, didn't look well cared for holster that the top edge was pinched and formed a "V" and the corner of the V contacted the trigger, because the gun had room to continue traveling down, it did go BOOM, it didn't hit the owner, but made a new drain hole in his car. moral of the story, pay attention to the condition of your leather.

Because of the way that the gun enters the holster and is stopped soon after passing the inner molded area of the trigger guard, there is little chance the trigger would be effected. If there was enough room in the holster for the gun to continue down far enough the inner molding *'could'* catch, but I would still find that unlikely. Molding in the trigger guard is another way to add retention to the holster. Now, having said that, I did see somewhere where a guy CCW'ing caught his trigger on a edge of the holster and as he sat down the gun went off, missed him, made a new drain hole in his car. The top edge of the holster was worn, and not firm in holding it's shape. It was a well worn, improperly cared for holster. As he sat down the top edge formed a "V" the corner of the v contacting the trigger. His body pressing the gun down and "BOOM." The point of the retelling is a reminder, care for your leather, replace it when the leather won't stiffen with proper care. It's great when a holster lasts a lifetime. But a little impractical to think they all will. As far as critique's. I remember from my fist days being able to see the differences between my holsters and the famous makers. What took me a long time was what could I do to get mine a little closer to that look. So, after you stitch, take some sand paper to the edge, get it nice and uniform, then get it damp and run and edge slicker (flat plastic or boning tool) over it till it looks like glass, Search the "How it's Done" section for a sticky on edging. In there you will fine another thread on using saddle soap instead of water. I have used both, like them both. Don't neglect the belt loops. Attention to detail is what makes the difference between a good holster and a great one. One more thing, it might take a little trial and error, but, when making a gun specific holster, try to use the specific gun as the guide for the stitch line. From the pictures it kind of looks like you had a pattern IMO that may have been for another generic gun. Maybe not, I can't say for sure, but it looks to me like if you play with that stitch line next to the gun, you will get some better retention by getting to sit a little lower in the holster. Typically I take the gun and set it on the leather, and trace our about 3/8-1/2 inch away from the gun, and run my stitch there... I've made bunches of mistakes. even after 6 years I don't claim to be very good at this. Good luck, keep it up.

I know what you mean about the Dark Browns...I did the same with my early holsters. I use far more Tans' than Browns' now when I dye. Even the light Browns, if you apply too much will go dark on you in a hurry if you aren't careful. Suggestion...go to "particale" 's site and watch his video on his holster making. He is good with the air brush, since watching it I have an air brush and have been experimenting and practicing. I'm not very good yet, but I find that it is easier to apply just the right amount of dye to get the desired effect this way than using wool daubers, or dunking. Good luck.

Wow. You got me thinking... Maybe I shouldn't "buy" a case for my AR... I should mold one. Very Cool.

WOW. You carved the liner? Wow. looks fantastic.

Very Cool gift. Great job with the pin. I like that you planned out everything on paper best way to ensure a great project is to plan it out. Only thing I'd mention in the leather work is the edging. A few seconds on a belt sander, or a little elbow grease with a piece of sand paper in your hand will go a long way to getting your edges in line. There is a great "how-to" for edging in the "how to" section. It's where I learned. I "borrowed" a certain firearms from my dad to do the same thing. He didn't even know it went missing, Thought I bought him a new gun. I sure didn't anticipate that snag, but it turned out well.

Mark, Congrats on your first project. Just my observations, not criticism. Over stitch wheels work great after you are done stitching to straighten, and make the stitching look uniform. Just run the wheel over your stitching and apply pressure. A edge beveling tool will help you round the edge before you apply your dye or edge covering material. I'm not a long timer, but most of them on here, an I follow their example don't use a "edge Coat" material. Just dye it and Burnish it properly. I bevel the edge, then sand the leather with sand paper to even out the surface, and the grain length. then Dye and Burnish. The only other thing I thought about after that was design related. A pass though slot on the back might cut down on how much hand stitching you have to do, and how much room on your belt it takes up. All in all a great first project, it looks like it does what it is supposed to , so it'a definite WIN!

I use the Tandy Hand sewing needles. It can be very hard to get the needles though, but thats what sets hand sewn apart from machine (in some cases.) And I use a over stitch wheel to mark the holes, but I use a 4 prong punch from Tandy to make the holes. I'm sure there are other ways, I just happen to use the 4 prong punch. Maybe I missed it, but what hand sewing system are you using? Awl or single thread double needle? One other side note about the stitching, I grove my stitch line. I like the thread to sit flush with the surface. After finishing my stitching, I take the over stitch wheel and run it over the stitches i just sew'd and it evens them out, even helps remove excess wax. In my signature, you can see my website, and there is a gallery with examples of my work. Still learning myself, so take it for what it is. Keep up the great work.