chevvy64

Thanks for that, it would appear most people are using it in the same way. Curious about the finish on it if used alone though, and as too how much water repellency it actually gives.

Never used MPB, not even sure if it's available here in the UK. They are both waxed based finishes, that will need to be reapplied at some point (depending how heavily the item is used, and what it is exposed to). I have used the Aussie myself, spread onto warm leather, worked in with fingers, and used a hairdryer to help it soak in; then buffed with plenty of elbow grease. It gave a lovely warm lustre, rather than a glossy finish from the acrylics, which some people prefer

I have used it myself, in the same way yo do; and sometimes still do; no complaints using it at all. Colour transfer can be a problem, I agree; and I use neutral shoe polish also. Thanks but I wasn't asking for a formula as such, I was trying to figure out why the resolene I bought to try had no protection at all, and wondered if this was usual. As resolene is classed as a finish I would have expected to see some sign of water resistance, but I am seeing nothing; it's "almost" as if I didn't put anything on the leather at all. From the replies it would seem as if it is being used as a seal rather than a finish?

I doubt anything would go through the resolene as it is an acrylic finish, so you would need to feed/condition your leather prior to application. I doubt the resolene would be able to adhere to the leather surface once any wax is used, so Sno-seal would be the same.

Hey Spartan and jackd942, thanks for your replies. So you are not actually using it as a stand alone finish, but more of a seal, which I assume is just to stop colour transfer? I would be interested to hear from anyone who does use it as a finish on it's own, it does say it provides a water resistant finish.

Hey marine, and thanks. I didn't expect it to be waterproof, nothing is; but I was expecting some sort of water resistance. I have split it 50/50 as per all the posts I read regarding application. 2/3 light coats; left overnight on some pieces, and a few days on others (as the overnight pieces showed no repellency). I assumed it would bead, at least initially; but there is nothing. It is only marginally better than no finish at all, surely that can't be right?

Hey all, I have poured over the forums looking for related information, but have found nothing, so hoping for a little help. I have never used Resolene as my finish, but those who use it seem to swear by it, so I decided to give it a try out of curiosity. I figured it was always good to have other options available, and so I ordered some. I read posts on the dilution, and application methods; and have followed the advise whilst trying it out. The problem I'm having is that there seems to be no water resistance at all, no beading, it just goes into the leather. I have applied by brush, sponge, and airbrush; all with the same results. I have left some test pieces overnight after 2 or 3 coats, and others I have left for a week, but it makes no difference; there is no repellency at all. I know it is useless if it has frozen, but I have no way of knowing if it was at any point before it got to me. I also have no idea what the result of it being frozen would be? Would the mixture separate at all, or would it just lose its water resistance? Anyone ever encountered this, or have any advise? Many thanks

Perhaps Renaissance wax? As you would probably clean your boots anyway, it is used by the British Museum and countless others across the world to preserve many types of items from bronze statues to paper. The items are obviously not being worn but I see no reason why it can't be used and then just reapplied from time to time, when you are polishing your boots anyway. It should do no harm at all (as far as I know) and is trusted on valuable items for preservation. It is also waterproof, plus it can be used on almost any item, so if you buy it at least you probably can use it elsewhere.

Not sure if this is the same problem, but after dying (also black) I had some patches of a white crystal type substance that caused a haze on the surface. The crystal were very tiny, almost powdery, but it had a sort of sparkle you could plainly make out, if the item was tilted and it caught the crystal substance in the light. Turned out it was salts from the leather; and a good buffing took them off with no detrimental after-effects that I can see.

Not had a chance to do try the hairdryer test yet as been out most of the day so I will do that tomorrow. It was bought as veg tanned tooling as I usually do so it's something I haven't seen before, I shall let you know how it goes Thanks for the input, appreciated

Ooo thanks North I never thought of that, great idea Should narrow it down at least eh

Hey WinterBear and thanks, I saw that when I was searching for an answer. Only thing I wondered about was the sparkly crystal type shine to the powdery look, would tht be fats and is detrimental at all in the long term?

Hey all, hoping someone can advise me as to what this is? I have made a belt for a friend today, they only wanted a line border on and nothing more. I competed as requested and then dyed the belt black as they had asked. I noticed that what had looked like a clean hide, apart from having a lot of fat scaring, looked a bit pock marked and rougher after applying the dye; however I left it to dry and figured I would take a look when the belt was dry. It was left overnight and on inspection the next morning, is covered in patches of a white shiny, powdery (reflects like tiny crystals?) substance. Does anyone have any idea what this is? I have wiped it off, but I have no idea if it will return, or will be detrimental to the leather in anyway over time? Have dyed another strip to see if the same would happen and it has; it's currently drying but I can see the same substance starting to come through as it dries. Possibly it's activated, or whatever, after casing the leather, as I can see no evidence of any residue on the shoulder before wetting. Many Thanks

Sorry to bump this up again guys, but I really would like to know how to set these before I go ahead and manage to break some more of them. They arn't cheap so I really can't afford to ruin them all whilst I experiment more than I already have done. There has to be a way to set these types of rivets manually, and someone else must have done some previousy? Look forward to any advice Many Thanks

Not sure if these are similar to what you are looking for, about half way down the page. Picture is really small so hard to see but you could alwas give them a ring to check http://www.brasstacksfurniture.co.uk/supplies.html

Thanks Bob for the link, already seen that one but I appreciate you taking the time The ones I want to set are considerably higher than those on the vid, which look pretty flatish really. Keeping fingers crossed someone may have some advice as like I said; I can't be the only person to ever want to do these. I did consider setting them on some sort of rubber but wasn't sure if doing that would make to much "bounce" and not be firm enough to set the rivet properly. BTW how hard is that rubber mat thing you use for those decorative ones? Thanks

Well TBH I bought the bed for me hahah, but I may at some point try it out on the leather, now that would be interesting

Heya Spence and thanks, already googled just about every term I could think of and not seen anything. Perhaps I missed something so I will try again, but surely there is a way of setting without? I went a bit mental and bought loads of differnt shaped ones so the chances of finding setters to fit all of them would be pretty tough; I wonder if sitting the face of them on some firm rubber would work? If anyone has tried this or knows another way I really would appreciate it, I don't want to ruin every decorative concho I bought just working out a way to set them

Beat you to it Horrrk lol, bought a sun bed couple months ago, ahh British summers - gotta love em

Hey again. Sorry to bump this up but I really need some advice as I have finished all the work and only need to attach the conchos. If anyone knows how to set all these raised types of styles manually, that would stop me breaking them all, I would be really grateful

Google search for "brass escutcheon pins", should get you loads of panel pin style ones, cheap and disposable. Other than that all I can think of is drawing pins or upholstry pins if you want to reuse them. Hope that helps

Just realised this question was asked 6 months ago, didn't realise St8Line had reopened it. I assume his problem has been sorted by now lol, sorry guys

I use only EVOO, I have never had any smell other then that of the leather, nor have I ever had anything go rancid with it. Perhaps if you totally oversoak it with oil it may be an issue, but then wouldn't that apply to any of the oils if overused on a piece? I use a light coat, perhaps 2 if the leather needs it, but they are very light coats. I apply from grain side only as it is much easier to control how much you actually put on there As for leaving in the sun, far as I know it's how the natural colour is darkened in those places that actually get sun; can't opinionate as sun is a rare commodity here haha. I never heard of it making leather peel o.O

Hey all, hoping someone can advise me before i rip all my hair out I bought an assortment of conchos, all rivet on, and all are raised, by which I maean domed, pyramid, other differnt shapes; but basically all of them are raised with patterns, rhinestones, or embelishments on them. I tried to set the first one on the hard metal surface that I usually use for the back side of the rivet that won't be visible; but I covered it with a piece of leather so as to protect the raised surface of the concho. It didnt work, and although the rivet section did actually set, most of the rest of the concho crumbled away from the back rivet post and broke. I tried a second straight on the metal plate and tried to set with just one swift tap, but that broke the front of the concho; so now I have no idea what to do. I know industries will have dedicated setters, but surely I can't be the only person to want to set these manually? Any advise on how to do this would be so appreciated, hopefully before I break every concho I bought

Hi rdb and thanks for response, I was a little impatient it seems so I apologise; I was just excited and looking forward to finishing. Just to let you know, I did also go through the entire Dye catagory when I couldn't find an answer via search; I read so much my brain was ready to bust lol. Everyone has a method and a preferance, which I totally understand, but they are all so very different from each other, that you end up more confused than you were at the start. I should mention I did a little leatherwork about 13 years and really enjoyed it, the subject happened to come up a few weeks ago and I was asked if I could make leather armour. I have no idea what to do as I only made belts and so on, but I agreed to have a go. I said I would make a few belts just to get back into it, and then try and make some patterns for armour if they would be my guinea pig. I was never an expert only a hobbyist but loved it, and as I have recently lost my job, I figured why not? I had a lot of stuff left over like the old tandy antique stains, and the supersheen, which I used on the first belt, but didn't like the way it looks so shiny. Long story short, as it was for armour which would be used in our typical English weather (more rain) I rang Tandy for advise as pretty much everything I knew has changed. The guy advised me that from what I had described he recommended the Aussie Leather Conditioner as it would give a subtle sheen and it's waterproof (it also states waterproof on the tub description). I suddenly wondered if it would rub off on clothes or let dye bleed through, and tbh that's why I ended up on the forum, but the more I read the more I'm confused. I know someone said they had used a Skidmore's product which essentially sounds the same, but I just feel so unsure now. I would just hate to make something that wasn't good enough to stand the test of time or ruined someones stuff. So any other input from yourself or others really is gratefully accepted