Art
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Posts posted by Art
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Welts and bottoms on bags is where the post shines.
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Get a cylinder bed machine, preferably one with a flat table insert. The post machine is seldom a requirement (although that one time you need one, nothing else will do). I do have a post, but wouldn't want one as my only machine. You can do a lot (almost anything) with a post, but it won't be as comfortable as it will be with a cylinder bed.
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No, I do not. Bob has never been unfair with pricing. You get what you pay for.
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For big heavy leathers, I prefer Bob Beard's edgers. For everything else, I use Ron's.
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You want the 16x2. Here's a list of needles you may want to consider from the thread exchange.
https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCHFA&Search=16x2
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For size 33 (commercial) thread like I use on boot tops, I use a size 14 needle, but anything from 12 to 15 might work.
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You want 16x2 or DBx2 for that machine. That number is called the "system".
Then you need to pick size (generally the diameter of the needle) based on the thread you are using.
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Try going up one needle size.
Art
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These are often called Martengale Hearts.
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Well, you certainly made that clear in your original post. Lay part on a piece of grid or graph paper, both sides to be clearer. Now, call OTB and see if they can source what you need. They might not have it, but they can point you in the right direction. These can also be custom made. There are a lot of vendors out there, it might take a few hours on the phone to get a lead. Also, go to your original supplier and ask where they sourced them.
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Fact of leather life here. Robert Beard tools sell for more than you paid for them when new. This is on eBay. They seldom come up unless someone dies. Barry King tools can be a little more flexible on price, but they hold their value too.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquilim-315-dispersion-adhesives-500g/dp/B00DJ3KHSA
Renia Aquilim 315 it works very well. Water based, no VOCs. I stayed away from anything like this for the longest time. This is all I use now even though I have a gallon of Master in the shop.
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Bite the bullet and buy a Robert Beard or a Henley. If you don't like it, you can put it up on eBay and get more than you paid for it. Both of those brands lean more toward being a "generic" swivel knife while being very adjustable for length. When you get enough experience to know if you want a bigger or smaller knife, like I said above, you can recoup your cost (hell, I'll buy it from you).
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Email one of the older folks at Ohio Travel Bag. But a little searching can find it here:
https://www.fasttech.com/product/9617220-boyou-b910-zinc-alloy-keychain-car-key-ring-holder
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Those machines are very robust. They travel to shows many times a year over 1000 miles each way. If you can afford the needle positioner, get it. It makes doing cartridge loops a bit easier. You can live without it though. Call me if you need more info. Three zero one eight four eight seven eight one zero.
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Isn't that a chain stitch machine?
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.364
CRC Standard Math Tables.
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Carrie,
Make Big full width pockets, actually more of a lining with an open top. If you want more, sew them to that pocket. All the stitching for the liner pocket would be in the seams.
Art
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Do you already have the new belt? Take pics of what you have and give a time frame.
Art
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Take it out to Steve at Leather Machine Co. They sell a machine with a 14 inch width, usually effective to 12 inches. Usually a tanner is the only one that will have a machine big enough to do a whole hide.
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This happens when the steel won't hold a very acute edge. For instance, there are a few (I won't name them) head knives that will take and hold 10 degrees a side (20 degrees included) for light duty. But when the steel isn't up to it, the effect is just as you describe. I have found that 18 to 20 degrees per side (36 to 40 degrees included) works for most leather knives.
Art
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Getting in on the tail end of this, I generally derust then cold blue. If stainless or not to be blued, I use Johnsons paste wax.
Art
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7 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:I always learn stuff from your posts. Your previous post,told me I was probably getting my pocket knives too sharp.
I'll back it down and see if the aus8 will hold up a little longer at work.
I'm thinking 1000 with stropping after? Or 800?
OR 600 with stropping. But keep the angle at 40°, 20° per side if it is a heavy user. The 1000 or 800 will work fine too, that doesn't have anything to do with edge strength or how long you will go between sharpenings. That's more of an angle thing. It is the old how sharp is sharp thing. It needs to be sharp enough to do the job, and 600 with stropping or 800 or 1000 won't make a lot of difference, but the angle with enough steel behind the edge makes a world of difference along with what you are cutting. Stripping out romex or cutting cardboard boxes needs more angle than cutting meat.
Art
turning my dad's old belt into a guitar strap
in Help Wanted
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This can be as easy as making two end pieces and maybe a shoulder pad. You could possibly get by without any work to the belt at all.