bobkiss
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Posts posted by bobkiss
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Thanks for the suggestion, I checked and the needle was in correctly. The problem seems to be related to thread tension. If I lossen the bibbin thread and tighten up the top thread it seems to sew better. Makes no sense to me....
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Hi guys, I hope someone can help me. I have a Nakajima 280L, it keeps fraying and breaking the top thread!! What I think I know is this, if I sew very slowly I have no problems, if I speed up it breaks, if I go in reverse it breaks. The issue happens as the needle disappears through the throat plate. I have checked everything for a rough spot or a burr, all smooth. I reset the timing and the problem got worse. Any suggestions would be appreciated....
Bob
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Nice job! I need to make me some of those!
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Very cool design. Nice work!
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After re-checking the tension path and finding no problems again, I changed the needle to a #24 (thats the only other size I have right now) and it sews like champ!!! Thanks for the help, I don't want to think about how long it might have taken me to figure this out on my own!
Bob
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Hi,
I need help! I am using my Nakajima 280L to sew canopy canvas to make sheep blankets. I can't get the bottom stitch to bury properly no matter how I adjust the tensions. I can get it to bury a little if I loosen the bobbin tension all the way and tighten down the needle tension but even then the best it gets is still not good. I am using V92 thread and a #20 needle. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Bob
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Mistake
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Hi, I am new to this forum, well I have been a member for a while now, just not actively. Anyhow, I have a customer that wants a holster for a mares leg rifle/pistol (model 92 winchester with cut down barrel and butt stock). The problem I am having is finding a metal clip to hold the pistol in the holster. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
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Does anybody heat oil and soak leather in it? How do you do it and what does it do? My wife says the "old timers" used to do it, well, I've got a wood stove, a cast iron pot and a jug of neatsfoot oil and I'm getting closer and closer to being an old timer everyday!
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Thanks everybody for the suggestions, I like the swivel knife idea, I will try that tomorrow. it's amazing how somebody's perspective can change years of doing something the hard way! Thanks again.........
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A good quality,sharp round knife. They come in several head sizes depending on how delicate the work is. And a lot of practice, there is some difficulty in getting the hang of it but if you're really going to do leatherwork it's a necessary skill to have.
I think I know what you mean, I have found it very difficult to cut anything with a round knife, any suggestions?
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Campbell Randall has the thread your looking for. http://www.campbell-...q5o8mgjeut4ef76
Thanks for the info.
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I agree that the stirrup leathers and fenders have been replaced. I recently sold a saddle very similar to yours for $250.00. The market is really crumby right now. I would date the saddle from the 1940's. Just a saddle guys opinion.........
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Here's three old machines I use regularly.
The first is a leather cutting/skiving machine. It says "AMERICAN" and "ST. LOUIS" on it, but other than that, I don't know much about this machine. I don't use it a lot for cutting leather because it leaves a cut with ridges on it, but I love using it for skiving. One crank of the handle, and the leather is perfectly skived to a feather edge.
The next picture is my Singer 29K60 sewing machine. It was built in Scotland in 1946. I use it for quick sewing of simple lightweight leather projects. I don't use it as often as I might, because I enjoy handsewing.
The third picture is what used to be a hand-cranked grinding machine. I bought it at a second-hand shop for $15.00. I took the grinding stone off and replaced it with 6 inch diameter leather discs which I cut out from scraps of saddle skirting and rivetted together. I applied jeweler's rouge to the disc and it works perfectly for honing knives and other cutters.
Hi,
I have a Singer similar to yours, mine is a 29k4, I also have a hand grinder and I'm going to steal your idea to replace the stone with a leather wheel, what a great idea! I also have the skiving/cutting machine, mine is made by Landis, I have never used it, I don't have a blade for it, do you know where I could by one?
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Can anyone tell me the best way to cut curves, ie, when I cut out a holster, as I cut the curved areas it is impossible to keep the blade from tilting and resulting in an angled edge. Obviously a clicker and die is the best solution but I don't have one right now. Thanx
Bob
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Looking thread for my Pearson no. 6 harness machine. The thread I have for it is "5 cord left hand twist". Not sure where to get supplies anymore, we have been out of the business for about ten years. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanx
Bob
Pearson No. 6
in Leatherwork Conversation
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Hi Guys, I have a Pearson No. 6 that has been in the family for many years. I have always used Barbours linen thread and have never used a thread lubricant. Should I be using thread lubricant? The tank for lubing the thread is missing from my machine so I would need to locate one. I like using the linen thread, but that is all I have ever used in this machine, is there a better option? Any input would be great, thanks in advance.
Bob