jasonsmith
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Posts posted by jasonsmith
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14 minutes ago, Burkhardt said:
If you had your location it would help for others in the same area to give reference to their experience. I get my stuff from SLC and just got a order last week but the deep freeze is just starting now. They usually as temps dip put in heat packs and so far I haven't in years past gotten a frozen anything but I'm close to all the interstates and they don't get much sitting in transit time.
I guess I'll have to ask the leather suppliers if they put heat packs in with orders that have an acrylic sealer. Though my nearest Tandy is an hour away.
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1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:
I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.
Do you mean sheep skin pieces that still have hair on it? What about the fake wool stuff they sell as that is easy to get.
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2 hours ago, Dwight said:
Just a couple notes on neatsfoot oil.
First . . . I oil the leather before dyeing it . . . the leather is almost always "dry" and could use a tad of oil to bring it up to par.
That oiling FIRST . . . allows the oil based dye to spread thru the oil in the leather . . . and will result in much more level looking dye jobs . . . especially if you are willing to dye it right . . . which is to dunk dye it. Submerge the piece in the dye . . . cut 50/50 with dye thinner . . . and you will really like the smooth and level dye job you get there. Any other type of dyeing just results in a thin dye color laying on top of the leather . . . and the worst offender there is the air brush method. One good scratch on a piece of air brushed leather will scrub off the dye and bare leather will shine thru.
Second . . . I never oil the flesh side . . . only the hair side. Oiling the flesh side can result in too much oil for the project . . . resulting in a flimsy leather piece.
Third . . . I buy cheap 1 inch paint brushes from Harbor Freight . . . and I use them for doing the oiling. Simply brush on one wet coat . . . don't get serious with that . . . just one wet coat over the whole outside of the project . . . that is the hair side.
Fourth . . . if your oil is in a room that is 70 degrees or more . . . you do not need to warm it up. Simply brush it on . . . come back tomorrow about this time . . . you will have a piece of leather that will work well for your project.
Feibings Saddle tan is one of the trickiest of their dyes I've ever used. I have to follow this process if I want my Saddle tan to turn out right for me. Why??? I don't know for sure . . . but after some serious practice and investigation . . . I found that this is the process that works for it.
I then transferred it to all my other dye jobs . . . and even they look better now.
Anyway . . . have fun . . . may God bless,
Dwight
I couldn't really do a dip die as my pieces are 12"x12" wide. So, just too much dye needed for dip die method. Though, I only use Pro Oil black, so easier to get a more even coverage since it's black.
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I came across this foam roller at Wal-Mart in the hobby section. The foam is 3/8" thick on one side. Might could do well as a way to dye larger pieces of leather. Though may lose die to the foam unless you could squish it out and back into the bottle via a funnel. But will experiment using it to spread a thin layer of pure neats foot oil on the grain side a day or so after dying:
Hello Hobby 2 Pc Foam Paint Brush Set with Handle, 2.25" - Walmart.com
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14 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:
Hey, did you guys know men can get pregnant now, I'm actually just being an ignorant ass!! I hope this hits the right spot
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6 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:
lol Your still being defensive just look at what you just wrote my friend no one here is against you or anything you want to try or believe.
lol On the other hand you don't have a reason to believe they aren't the same thing either my friend.
Most of my products are for outdoor use so they get finishes that are more designed for that criteria. More like you would apply to boots for example.
Sounds like roll playing gear? I don't know how well hot sweaty skin would react to an acrylic sealer or if allergies might be a problem. if they are made to flex or get beaten on I doubt you will be happy in the long run with acrylic either. If they are going to be hard like armor then you may want to look into boiled leather I doubt it would need much sealer besides maybe some beeswax or some such natural finish.
It’s not armor. Just leather prop replicas with spots and some spikes. I’ve already used eco Flo satin sheen that worked fine 10 years on. Will experiment cutting it 50/50 with water. I use pro dye, so less chance of dye rub off.
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27 minutes ago, chiefjason said:
You still refuse to quite get it when you try to make snarky points. I don't use resolene for the SAME REASON you don't want to use it. It's creates that plastic look.
I do use M&G for the opposite reason, because it DOES NOT produce the plastic look that you also don't want. Which was one of your reasons for looking at other sealers.
The differences in the two are a feature for me, not a bug. I don't care what it's sold for. it does exactly what I want it too. You care too much what it's sold for, even if it DOES NOT do what you want it too.
Your belligerent nature in sticking to your guns is impressive though.
I don’t think I’ve been belligerent. I just don’t know how many ways I can politely decline to use a particular product that has nothing to do with this thread. Mop and Glo seems to be treated as a religion though. People are free to use it if they want.
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6 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:
I have no idea only you can tell us that, it isn't my thread nor was it my question. I don't understand why you are so defensive about everything? folks have just been trying to help you. You argued you don't want to waste 25 bucks on leather but will happily waste it on a brand name sealer. Spend two or three days now arguing the point and being vehemently against the thought then realize you are using it anyway. Anyway back on topic.
I have some eco sheen its ok and you can dilute as you wish, its an acrylic sealer, I have some pledge future acrylic floor wax its ok too absolutely no difference between the two. I use them only as a resist for staining my tooling when i need to. All the rest of the time I don't use any of the crap on my stuff. I like more natural finishes on my work as do my customers. You may want to rethink the whole process or even if acrylic is what you need for your project if your goodie flexes it will most likely crack at some point using an acrylic sealer. As we don't know what you projects are we cant help with that.
I'm not being defensive when I'm forced to repeat myself over and over again that I'm not going to use Mop and Glo when people keep talking about it after I said I'm not going to use it 3rd post into this thread. I think some here are treating Mop and Glo like a religion.
And I don't have a reason to believe something like Eco Flo Satin Sheen is the same thing as Mop and Glo. Because they aren't really the same product as they are made up of different chemicals for different purposes. Just because both have acrylic in it doesn't mean they're the same thing.
What "natural finish" do you use, or do you mean you don't put a finish on it? My products are arm and shoulder gauntlets that you tie off via paracord through grommets and have spots and spikes and other things on them.
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Just now, chuck123wapati said:
You finally figured out what everyone was telling you Congrats!!!
Then what exactly is the problem if I use Eco Flo Satin Sheen since you believe it's Mop and Glo in disguise?
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I was searching around the forum and saw someone mention a company called Alpha 6.
They sell a few different types of sealers that are "matte". I'll probably contact them to figure out what the differences are between their different matte topcoats and may order one to try. If it is a true "matte" and not kind of glossy like Angelus Matte Finisher.
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On 1/7/2023 at 2:04 PM, Historicalbeltworks said:
I come from the Doug Monroe school of applying finishes, and as such have use the 600 for a couple of years. Lately, as my work has become a little more complicated, I am noticing as I apply to finish it’s turning white during the application process, which is the result of little tiny bubbles. That itself wouldn’t be so bad, except that on some of the projects, especially black ones, those bubbles had a tendency of making the black finish look almost ghost like or silvery, which we do not want. I am obviously applying it incorrectly for whatever reason, and I would like some help please on what others would recommend I try. I usually use a piece of old T-shirt wrapped up really tight, so I get an even smooth surface that doesn’t end up down in the cracks of my work for when I apply the antique. This has worked for a long time, but isn’t working now, that, or I had not noticed until now. Thank you.
Did you ever get this figured out? I see you posted this in January. Did you buy any chance order this during the winter and had it shipped to you? I've read warnings that if these products freeze, then they may be ruined. So I have no idea how places like Tandy's orders this stuff, unless they stockpile in the fall to cover the winter.
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I'm thinking of getting a 3oz empty flip top bottle from Walmart. And use a syringe to remove 1oz of Eco Flo Satin Sheen and inject it into the empty bottle along with 1oz of distilled water. Shake it and run some tests to compared to Eco Flo Satin Sheet full strength.
I may also buy a bottle of Angelus Matte Finisher and try out a 50/50 distilled water mix with that too.
Has anyone done a 50/50 distilled water mix with Eco Flo Satin Sheen or Angelus Matte Finisher?
I assume it wouldn't be any different than when people do a 50/50 mix of Resolene and water?
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1 hour ago, SUP said:
@fredk I suspect some of the people here are truly perplexed about his stubbornness in the face of so many good experiences and proof with M&G and his refusal to even consider it while others just enjoy needling him a bit.
Well, technically, aren't I already using Mop and Glo by some other's logic? I already have a new bottle of Eco Flo Satin Sheen, same as I used last time, which some say is just rebranded Mop and Glo. So, haven't I been using Mop and Glo the entire time then? I do plan to do a test where I cut Eco Flo Satin Sheen with 50/50 distilled and see what that does. Though I usually see people recommending the cutting with Resolene.
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I think I'll do a test where I mix Eco Flo Satin sheen 50/50 with distilled water like what people do with Resolene and see what that does. I've used Eco Flo Satin Sheen 100% in the past with good results, but had wanted to try some other things when I ordered more dye. Which I went ahead and ordered more dye.
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2 minutes ago, chiefjason said:
We've done the experimentation for you. Proved it works fine. Are willing to tell you exactly what we do. Yet here were are. You are stuck in the mud with your position.
At this point it's just the most exciting thing going around here right now. lol. So I'll play along until I get too busy to bother.
$40? Since money seems to be a thing with you I dipped $800 worth of holsters the other day prepping them to ship for Christmas. Absolute non issue again. Shocking I know.
I don't use Mop and Glo on my floors silly, so I would not use Resolen either. M&G is for holsters at my house.
FYI, I hate resolene anyway. Because of all the things you listed that you DID NOT WANT in a leather sealer. I use M&G because it's all the things I do want in a leather sealer. And all the things you want as well, minus that one hang up that you can't see your way around. I've had resolene crack when applied full strength a number of times. And it looks like I spray painted my leather with clear coat. Yuk.
This is what it looks like on leather. Dipped twice. Buffed with Atom wax. The dipping is part of my love of M&G too. I can buy it by the case for slightly more than 32 oz of resolene. I get 6 times as much. So I can dip my holsters instead of brush the finish on.
I'm not using Mop and Glo just like how you don't use Resolene. It's a choice I made and a choice you have made. I don't care what you say about Mop and Glo, I'M CHOOSING NOT TO USE IT. I'm only sticking with sealers that are traditional leather sealers, you don't have to agree with it. Also, a little bottle of leather sealer goes a long way. I only spread a thin layer on top of the leather.
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6 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:
First, I do have the petulant child on ignore, but when y'all quote him it still shows up. And in answer to his stupid question above; NO, BECAUSE AS WE HAVE TOLD HIM OVER AND OVER, M&G IS NOT, NOT NOTA FLOOR CLEANER!! Would I use them AFTER I cleaned the floor? YES, BECAUSE THEY ARE THE SAME DAMN THING AS M&G, AN ACRYLIC VARNISH!!!
You must have written that right after injecting Mop and Glo directly into your veins!
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1 minute ago, Bert03241 said:
Dude thru all this you still haven't figured out that mop & Glo is not just a floor cleaner its an acrylic sealer too. And yes if you send me a bucket of Resoline or Eco-Flo Satin Sheen, I will clean and seal my floor with it, and I'm sure it will do a nice job of it, after all it is an acrylic sealer just like Mop & Glo
I'm fully aware it does both. But it's primarily marketed as a floor cleaner, which is why I referred to it as a floor cleaner.
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3 hours ago, chiefjason said:
Then if you use ANY liquid sealant you're just using repurposed, more expensive Mop & Glo. That's the ridiculous part, but you just refuse to listen. The MSD sheet, which is the ingredient list, is nearly identical.
You choose to believe the internet about it cracking. Which no one here seems to have experienced. But refuse to believe any of the positive experience here. I'll take a stab at it that as many folks here have positive experiences as the number of negative one's you have encounters on the net. And if I had to guess the cracking is from two reasons, either applying without diluting or cheap leather. FWIW, I've had dedicated sealant crack when applied full strength. But mostly I've had cheap leather that cracked.
I'm guessing you don't use generic medicine either?
I guess you've picked your side and refuse to even consider changing. OK. But our suggestions meet the criteria of your first post. And meet it better than ANYTHING else I have used. Which is why I use it. You changed your initial criteria as soon as M&G was mentioned, even thought it meets what you wanted initially. I mean, you get to do that. And I get to think your obstinance is silly and unnecessary if you would try to listen to those more experienced than you. Which is what we thought you wanted. Guess we were wrong there.
I didn't "change" my criteria after Mop and Glo was mentioned. I've only used sealer bought from a leather shop and wasn't aware of people using floor cleaner to seal leather. I only "clarified" my criteria after being suggested to use floor cleaner.
I've not "refused" to believe anyone. People can have positive or negative experiences, it doesn't change the fact that I have no interest in experimenting, especially when we are talking about sealing $40 worth of leather and dye. Others can experiment.
Mop and Glo can share a similar substance with another product, but that doesn't automatically mean that they can be substituted for each other. I see Mop and Glo has fragrances and other things added to it. I'd call that contamination for purposes of sealing leather. At the end of the day, is it enough to matter? Well that's for others to figure out.
The question is, if someone gave you a free bucket of Resoline or Eco-Flo Satin Sheen, etc. would you be willing to clean your floor with it? Yes or no? Why don't you give it a try and let us know how it turns out? Buy a bottle and dump it in the middle of the floor and clean it and let us know how it turns out? This argument goes both ways. Make sure to take pictures.
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7 minutes ago, fredk said:
The chap does not want to use Mop & Go
Now, of the regular leather shop sealers which meets his needs?
tbh, all the ones I have dry matt or with a slight sheen, never a high gloss. It might be because I apply sealer diluted
Thanks, yeah, just don't get why people want to keep harassing me page after page just because I opted not to use Mop and Glo. Maybe I should start another thread on this topic with this disclaimer: "Not interested in Mop and Glo, don't mention it. I'm sticking with products that are supposed to be used on leather".
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3 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:
Personally I don't use ANY of the acrylic garbage on my leather. Nor do I put varnish on good wood. But you choose to use it, fine. But acting like a petulant child when a dozen people have recommended M&G as opposed to the same thing in a different bottle just makes you look foolish. With that, I will put you and your petulance on the Ignore list. Life is too short to deal with pigheaded foolishness.
Do you put Mop and Glo on your pancakes? So funny how many people act like children just because I turned down using Mop and Glo as I wanted to stick with traditional sealers sold a leather shops. I think some people here have been drinking it. If anyone is upset because I'm not using your favorite product, then best keep that to yourself than come here whining about it like a baby.
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2 minutes ago, Burkhardt said:
That wasn't intended for you. As for sealer I use tan-kot and believe bag-kot has less sheen. Or the other way I don't remember.
Okay thanks. I was reading inside the quote box and had assumed it was directed at me.
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6 hours ago, chiefjason said:
You asked for alternatives then argued with the answers. lol
Been using Mop and glo for 10 years. Not one customer has contacted me about the finish cracking. I use 2 dips. It's dulls so much I use some atom wax to bring it up to a neutral finish. $25 leather? I'm dipping $250 holsters in it without a second thought or a single issue.
But hey, you do whatever you want to.
I didn't argue with the answers. Someone suggested Mop and Glo. And I politely declined to using that product and instead stated that I wanted to stick with sealers that are sold at leather shops. Did people come in with suggestions for satin sealers that are sold at traditional leather shops, or did they come in arguing with me because I chose not to use Mop and Glo?
This thread is about recommendations for satin sealers that are sold at traditional leather shops. Tell me, how many recommendations were given that fits that criteria?
For the last time, I'm not using Mop and Glo.
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One thing that kind of concerns me is their fine print. Lots of weird disclaimers and things that I generally don't see. i.e. if your items are damaged during shipment, then they say you are on your own and you'd have to contact the shipping company. Which generally isn't the way that works. As the shipper is the one who has to file a claim or whatever. That's assuming there is insurance on the shipment.
So, if I were to order a quart of dye, and it arrived smashed and leaking because it was packed poorly. Then I guess you'd have to contact the shipping company to see if they'd be willing to do anything. Though, I say they'd tell you to contact the shipper, which ST Leather already says that you'd be the one to have to contact the shipping company.
Have read of some reviews of people getting things damaged during shipment because items were packed poorly. May just skip them, though was interested to see if their $6 a square foot of veg tan was either junk or a good deal.
What applicator do you use to apply pure Neatsfoot oil to grain and flesh side?
in How Do I Do That?
Posted
scotch-brite sponge? How many uses to you get out of it? Are you able to brush on an even coating that way?