Singermania
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Posts posted by Singermania
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Hi, its Steve from Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia, Wiz is correct, Cowboy can supply both closed and open center feet. General leather and saddlery training schools often prefer the open foot as the students can better see the stitch. You shouldn't break the needle when pulling the thread out to cut, if its that tight then pull some from the top first or check that the lever separating the secondary (top) tension disks is engaging when you lift the foot.
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Hi All, Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia has gone thru another growth spurt, with sales over the last few months climbing way over any expectations. We started life some two years ago with a small range of heavy leather sewing machines and now have two ranges for the saddler and leather worker.... the budget range of the CB105R and huge CB7205bv and the top of the hill range of the CB227R, CB3200 and CB4500. In addition we have added the upholsterers and canvas workers range of CB1618, CB7132UL and Cb7273eco. To run side by side with the leather sewing machines we now have skivers, the 801 and 802, and splitters.. the 800, 806 and 8020 as well as a paring machine and a hand clicking machine.. the 8160.
We recently introduced the outsole stitching feet to the CB3200 and CB4500 (sometime called narrow feet) and now we have just launched the binding attachments for both these machines in 30mm and 50mm.
Also a bit of a breakthrough for owners of the ever popular Singer 132K6, we have 25mm and 50mm binding attachments for these too. So pls contact us for your Singer 132K6 binding attachment. Regards Elly and Steve
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HI, I'm Steve of Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia, to my knowledge Cowboy do not make a laser guide specifically for the Cowboy CB4500. As the guys above have said you just use an off the shelf one. There are mechanical guides for it though, there is the base plate version and the drop down version. On a slightly (very) different subject we have finally been able to source Singer 132K6 binding attachments if anybody wants one.
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Yes fair comment, I was thinking more about the interchangeability of the bell knife and driving stone than in depth mechanical side. MInd you I have then both in front of me and its hard to spot a difference. By the way I have a Randall here and love it. best regards Steve
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I guess we are always going to have some elitest sales talk on this site, as far as I can see the Chinese machines are straight copies of the Fortuna, I'm not going to go into what a copy of a copy is. I have an old Fortuna skiver here in our showroom side by side with a new Cowboy 801 skiver, to try to see the difference takes quite a bit of searching. The bell knife, feed etc are all the same.
RockyAussie, what is it you are looking for in an Australian dealer? Cowboy Leather Machines is Australia's biggest heavy leather sewing machine supplier, we also supply skivers, splitters, creasers, clicking presses etc.
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You misunderstood Darren, we're not laughing at your machines we're laughing at your Hawaiian shirts.....;)
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Yes mate, I'm always about, if I can help then that's great.
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http://cowboy did them, protex did them and trojan did them... not b2b but the Mitsubishi clone
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Yes another fairly standard Fortuna style skiver, I'd be surprised of the bell knife and other main components aren't interchangeable with Fortuna and other clone bottom feed skivers.
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looks like this Darren........http://www.sewingmachinesaustralia.com.au/shop/buy-spare-parts/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-dy-253.
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No Darren, that's the B2B clone, the gentleman is enquiring about the Protex TY253, which is the Mitsubishi version
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I also have the Lanid no 1 manual if you need it..... The machine is good, will sew maybe a half inch, no reverse, transverse shuttle and walking foot. If the machine is complete you really don't need a lot of technical dealer backup to get it going.. check with the guys here.
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Hi I'm Steve of Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia, yes Protex is a Chinese branded copy of the Mitsubishi DY253. The stitch length is set to maximum and can be access thru the little rubber plug or via the top plate. You have to hold a screwdriver in the slot inside (firmly) and rotate the handwheel, this will then change the stitch length. However..... I have found it easier to insert a small wooden peg in the front lever of the appropriate thickness and then machine will then run at the stitch length until you remove the peg. In other words the lever is spring loaded and will revert to its top and longest stitch position, pushing it down shortens the stitch length until you finally have nothing and then reverse.
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Cowboy Leatther Machines, Australia. Singer 111 are top machines, no doubt about it, the CB3200 would have given you more options re feet, plates and guides but is a different machine category as its a cylinder arm. If you only require the flatbed then you've done well. Regards Steve
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QuoteIts worth remembering that anything called a 'patcher' is a patcher.... not really designed for quality stitching on heavy leather work. Yes in new machines the CB3200 would be ideal, but there are many other walking foot and compound feed machines out there that would do the job for you.
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The Singer 103 is a light industrial machine, I'd think designed for the rag trade. However it will sew leather in small thicknesses. I'll leave some more details to the guys that own these machines.
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Yeah that's a pretty ordinary modification. Singer in their wisdom work out what they think the max for these machines might be, you can go greater but expect to put the machine under extra stress. There are new machines on the market with the kind of lift you are talking about.
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Most Singer manuals can be had if you look long enough or ask the right people, having said that I'm not sure I've come across any of the Singer 133k darner manuals.....the 132K6 yes, 133K8, 17 cylinder arm.yes.... but not the 133K13 etc darners....
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Well done, 10.400 is prob mid 1930s.
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Yes its best with a groove especially if its the final bottom sole, sometimes the sole is a middle section and can be rubber or soft and the stitch will pull up without a groove. Its something for the individual to work out for the best product.
Yes a left or right toe will work, these feet will get you in closer and leave eye view clear as well. They don't cost much and worth it I think.
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Yes, Constabulary is on the money, different thread, bigger needle and back off the top tension on both units. If the primary (bottom one) has a revolving disk encased in other flat disks and felt, make sure its oiled and able to rotate.
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there is nothing to fall out.
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no I think you really need to groove it first, its not as good as a Landis, this is more of compromise that you can put into play if you have a Cowboy CB4500. However if there was going to be a sole glued over the bottom stitch then I think its fine as it is.
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HI, you should be able to remove the end cover without drama, if something falls out then something must have come loose anyway and you'll easily see where it came from. Yes the foot is a jump foot, it doesn't actively feed but help prevent friction, ie it travels back with the material that is fed by the feed dog and then lifts and jumps forward and down to begin again. You'll see a flatish looking spring against the bar that makes it all happen. regards STeve
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HI, its Steve of Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia, the guys are correct, its fair to say that most/all Juki TSC 441 clones are on a par. After that its down to location and what you think of your available dealers.... and perhaps what is bundled with the machine at the price. Out here we looked at what Ryan Neel was doing and set up something similar, so we supply the machine on the best stand available, best motor and speed reducer, throw in about 6 or so different feet, matching feed dogs, stirrup and holster plates and the roller guide. Watch out for these items as they are expensive to buy separately.