Jump to content

Singermania

Members
  • Content Count

    518
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Singermania


  1. I expect an engineer will give you some serious technical advice on this, however in our business we find that its rule of thumb.... ie if its too loose it slips and or flaps, if its too tight you and the machine will find the handwheel hard to turn (assuming the clutch is disengaged on a clutch motor) and you will stress the motor and burn out its bearings.

     


  2. HI all, I agree, there is no point trying to sew this stuff without a feed dog.  If you want to get closer to the edge then use a dogleg left or right foot, however the stitches in your foto don't look all that close to the edge to me.  Don't even think about disassembling machines and adding washers etc, this is poor advise and can seriously invalidate your warranty.   Giving this kind of technical advise to the layman is bit risky in my view, leave that to the professionals.........have tried to attach a video of the dogleg foot in action, not the best sewing technique but hopefully will illustrate the point..

     

     

    Posted by Cowboy Leather Machines on Monday, February 8, 2016

    .


  3. HI All,

    Been a while since we've been on leatherworker, Cowboy Leather Machines in Australia has consolidated its lead over the opposition, probably selling about as much as the other players combined.   As well as the heavy leather side to the business we are now spending some more time expanding the upholstery and canvas machine base established last year.  In this area we have a range of about 6 machines held in stock with another dozen or so available by special order.

    We are presently running a special price of $2950 Australian dollars on the Cowboy 7132UL-16 and the Cowboy CB7273ECO heavy walking foot flatbed machines with reverse.  They are ideal for upholstery and in the case of the 7273ECO ideal for heavy canvas work such as awnings and truck tarps.

    Hope you are all having a great year.

     

     

    DSCN3539.JPG


  4. 7 hours ago, Uwe said:

    The Durkopp Adler H-Type machines can use both system 794 and system 1000 Needles.

    The system 1000 Needles are only made by Schmetz as of right now. The 1000H versions are the fabric point needles. They have only one leather point version, the 1000Q, which has a square tip with four cutting edges for leather work. They are only available in sizes 250, 280, and 300.

    The 1000 series has slightly shorter shank and thus a longer shaft, to allow for maximum material thickness without the thicker shank part penetrating the material.

    All this is what the folks at the Durkopp Adler, Schmetz, and Groetz Beckerts stand just told me a few minutes ago. I just happen to be at the TexProcess sewing machinery trade show in Atlanta.

    They also said the System 794 needles are a much better choice for leatherwork because of the large number of leather point versions that are available in that needle system, from both Schmetz and Groetz Beckert.

    Hi Uwe, thanks for your help, the local Schmetz dealer here in Australia says the 2016 list only shows the 280 needle, I would really like to source the 250 needle in leather point that you mentioned.... how confident are you that Schmetz does the 250?  If you are pretty sure I'll go back to them and ask them to look a bit deeper.


  5. Again, thanks very much to everyone, really needed some help on this one.   We have some large flatbed Cowboy machines that take the 1000 needle and would like a leather point to add to their versatility and also we want them for all the Singer 97-10 users out there.    The 97 can easily be converted to use the ubiquitous 794 system, however I think you lose its 1" thickness sewing ability.   thanks very much Steve

    ps Wrote to Campbell Randall and Weavers yesterday, am awaiting the Weavers reply.


  6. Hi, yes its a Koch / Drossner / Atlas... they did a fair bit of name playing back then too.   I have one similar to this and they would have to be one of the first cylinder arm saddlery machines available.  The originally came on a cast iron table with a heavy wooden top and massive treadle and flywheel.    It does quite a good stitch and is a transverse shuttle like the Pearson and Landis 1.

    Sorry don't have a manual.


  7. Art if you have a problem with me then you should be man enough to say what it is, if not then I suggest you watch your language in future or remove yourself as moderator... you were the one that jumped in on my reply to someone else.    You clearly have no idea of how a 441 works, you should keep to what you know and have some respect for heavy leather sewing machine professionals that give their time and experience free of charge.

     


  8. I understand the theory, I also did engineering, however if nothing pushed against a spring then not a lot of anything is going to happen.   This is not a motor vehicle where the vehicle depresses the spring at all times, in this case cutting a coil off is effective or if you want to go with your logic then a lighter spring would also be good.

    Art I wouldn't suggest this if I didn't know it worked, your theory is nice but flawed as we are talking about putting less pressure on the spring, not decreasing the resistance of the spring.   What you are imagining is that the spring has no load at the top position of the knob, however if you unwind the knob completely it will fly off, by shortening the spring it does not fly off......therefor lessening the downward pressure.    If you could increase the length of the bar, ie have the knob wound up higher you would achieve the same result.... but that would be more difficult.

    Whilst you are correct about altering the rate of the spring, it is so long that one coil wont make much difference to its sensitivity.

    I can only make suggestions from years in this business, things that I know work, if you want to dispute it then I suggest you try it first.


  9. Art if you cut a coil off you decrease the compression on the spring....simply because the spring does not reach as far and therefore the knob does not begin to bind down upon it so early, it doesn't matter what hemisphere you live in, we're not flushing toilets....

    Depending on how much you cut off, the knob may not even come in contact with the spring until wound further down and therefore be no pressure on the foot at all.   As most of the feed is accomplished by the needle this is not a problem.    regards Steve

     


  10. You've probably sorted this by now, however I agree that you are being screwed over, the machine is not worth the duty, its a fake duty anyway.   I deal with Indonesia and the same problems arise, crazy bills, bribery and stolen goods are the order of the day.   If you are going to move to a country like this you are going to have to get savvy pretty quickly.  Otherwise to continue, find a friendly sewing machine dealer to write you a letter of valuation on the machine, stat dec or whatever else looks impressive.   Find, generate, invent a receipt for the machine.  BE AWARE that no matter what you do, what fees you pay that the machine may never become available.


  11. HI, yes winding the pressure knob all the way up is the first step, I presume by banana slide you mean the adjustment on the back???  Nothing wrong with taking a coil off the tension spring, you wont do it with wire cutters, but an angle grinder will work.   We at Cowboy in Australia would be ok with it, but you'd want to check with your supplier to see if it upsets the warranty.


  12. HI All,     I'm hoping all those BUSMC / Pearson collectors or users might be able to assist me.   I'm a collector of not only the Pearsons but all heavy leather sewing machines with probably the biggest collection in the world that will one day be going to a museum, to that end I would like to get going a few of my more rare machines.

    In particular I have a Pearson & Bennion  (1890 ish) No 4, this is the only one I've ever seen and took years to source.   Its the only needle and awl machine made by these makers and will sew 1' thick leather and was approx. twice the price of a no 6.  In the BUSMC catalogue they list one with a 14 or 15" arm, however mine has an 8" arm, just another example of how many machines are out there that are not listed.... or not listed in anything I can find.   Anyway the machine was converted to hold a leather embossing/punching tool and would have punched a pattern onto belts.   I need to find a shuttle block (maybe my spare no 6 will fit??) shuttle drive and shaft and some other bits, does anyone out there have a good photo of one of these machines beyond what is in the catalogue on the net???  My machine is shown below.

    DSCN3643.JPG

    Here is a no 2

    DSCN3640.JPG

×
×
  • Create New...