Nat1

Hi, I know that traditional leather workers and shoemakers have made their own glue in the past. I would love to have some recipes or tips for making my own leather craft glue. Hopefully someone has some direct experience in this matter. * I'm not talking about contact cement, obviously, but the 'white glue' which is non-toxic and is sufficient for temporary bonds or for holding materials prior to stitching. Thanks! Nathan http://soulpathshoes.com

I've always made flat heeled sandals. Someone wants a 3/4" sole with another 3/4" added to the heel. Does anyone know how high you can go without support, such as a shank? I would think for a sandal like this I would slope it somewhat gradually and build up with EVA or cork. Experienced suggestions are most welcomed! Thanks Nathan http://soulpathshoes.com/

Anyone know of a good supplier (wholesale, ideally) for deer or elk antler buttons, suitable size for moccasins? Any leads would be appreciated, both in Canada or the US. Thanks,

Looking for a supplier for Schmetz needles, 794D, 794S, 794LR, and 794. Also, bobbins for my machine (Artisan Toro 3200), which are 7/8"x1", and are the same as for Juki TSC-441, or Adler 105, 205. I bought the machine directly from Artisan, and though I am satisfied with the machine, I am very disappointed with the customer relations, and follow up service, so I am choosing to bring my business elsewhere, even though this is much more hassle and effort. Any suggestions or leads would be appreciated, in Canada or the US. Thanks, ps. I'm also looking for a supplier for antler buttons for moccasins. I will post this in the shoe-boot forum too.

Hello Bruce and Art, I thank you both for the information you've shared, and have been doing more reading and watching online. I'm definitely going to explore the convex edge, and amongst many others, I found a simple and straight forward approach to this on you tube, by knife maker J. Neilson.:

Sounds like an inexpensive and effective solution... Thanks!

The first thing I'd like to clarify is I'm not attempting the flat grind with my round knife, since two of you have referred to that. I am experimenting with some old straight blade leather utility knives. I'm not sure if that makes any difference anyhow, as I am more interested in the concepts, and where it can apply effectively. I do understand the basic concepts of thickness and angle of bevel for different tasks , so I wasn't planning to go chopping wood rounds with a flat ground leather knife... I am new to this flat grind subject, however, so I don't understand all the in's and out's, and I certainly don't have the experience to modify a knife properly myself yet. I don't know what a Moran or Convex edge is. I've hear of hollow ground also, but not sure I understand that exactly. Do any of you have some sites or you tube videos that would be helpful or instructional on this topic? I have met two leather workers now who use the flat grind (or scandy, is there a difference?): One was a moccasin maker who uses this knife strictly for skiving, and he is very efficient with it. The other man's knife I got to try, and it worked very effectively, yet there was still steel--some thickness--left, it was not a razor blade. We didn't have enough time together for me to get all the details. Let me ask it this way: Do any of you own any knives ground this way, and if so, what is your experience, and which tasks do you prefer them for?

Hi, Do you apply the heat straight to the old rubber sole, and wait to heat up the whole thing, or do you direct it at one end, from the edge, to try to peel it back? The other thing is, what is the heat gun called, or the specs, if you know? Thanks for the help.

I've replaced the soles on my sandals and boots many times, but I'm sure there are techniques out there that would make the job simpler, or more efficient. For now I just use a Master Heat Gun. The heat area is about a 1.5" diameter circle, and the temp rating is (73-113 degrees F). Is this the right tool? It does work, like I say, but slow. More likely are the techniques. Can someone describe in detail this process for me? While I'm at it, is there a sole, Vibram or other, that is highly recommended for snow and ice, for a good winter or hunting boot. I've tried two different Vibrams so far, with impressive tread pattern, but the rubber is not sticky enough for icy snow (I'm not expecting miracles--I also have crampons for super-icy!). Thanks,

Hello! I've read some of the threads regarding lace cutters and Aussie strand cutter, which looks wonderful for the stiff and thin leather demonstrated on the bullwhip video. I'm not sure how well it would work for my purposes. I'm using either veg tan 5-6oz, or a chrome tan or oil tan 5-6 oz, or 2-3mm, and the straps are generally between 9 -12mm (or 0.35 - 0.47 inches) in width. I manage reasonably well with an old all-metal draw gauge, but inevitably it veers off course once or twice along the way and creates lumps or narrow stretches. It works better for the veg tan than the softer leather. Of course the sharper the blade, the better it works. What is a good way to even out the width of such a strap afterwards? Also, it is slow starting a cut with the draw gauge: is there a trick? I usually end up starting it with a knife, but all this is time consuming, as I am producing a fair quantity on a regular basis for sandals. Wondering if there is a more efficient tool, without spending in the thousands of $. Perhaps it is only a matter of technique, or my tool is not quite right. I'd love to hear some ideas on this. If this has been posted elsewhere, I apologize, but the list is intimidating, and I'm not coming up with much with the "search" option (either nothing, or too much non-relevant material). While I'm at it, what does "manage topic poll" mean? thanks,

Hi there, Do you still have the strap cutter?

I'm very interested in this 'persian toe'... I've seen turkish shoes or slippers with the pointed toe curling up, I imagine it would be similar. I would love to give that a try, if you have more detailed instructions or ideas to share. What are you referring to as the "vamp"? Thanks,

I'm also experimenting with sewing shearling sheepskin, though for slippers and winter boots, rather than jackets, if that makes any difference. I'm wondering about other machines that would be suitable for this work. Firstly, could you elaborate a little on the 441? Is it a dual feed walking foot machine, or triple-compound feed? Is there anything less heavy-duty (in other words, less expensive!) that can handle these jobs comfortably? Some people have suggested the Pfaff 1222e, for example. Seems like a good machine, short of a real industrial, except for the notorious nylon gears!?? Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated, as far as machines or tips on working with shearling. Thanks,