Jarhead84

So it sits inside your die to push the leather back out after it is cut?

So Clicker I see you sell the ejection rubber also, is that what is used under the leather to protect the dies? If so how is that different or better than the "Red Poly Board" that other places sell for the hydraulic clickers. I plan to get and build a 20 ton from HF, and am just a little confused on the material used as a backer. Thanks

Thanks, Ray. That sounds like an easy approach. We will try that one too.

Ok, thanks, I have a couple new ways to try now. I really appreciate the help.

Yes, this is the effect I was looking for cept maybe just a little darker or "bolder", but yes! I will try both techniques but I will have to go out to get some Antique-ing stain/dye

OK, I stamp my leather with 1/4" Tandy alphabet, i would like the letters themselves the flat part at the bottom of the depressions to be DARK and the rest to be a lighter color, I 'm not sure if maybe Antique would give me that effect ? To show you I would probably have to "borrow" someone elses picture though if you can't picture what I mean. Hope that explanation helps some,

This is probably a very rudimentary question but I haven't had much luck with it. I was wondering the technique or type of dye/stain to get my stamped letters dark and the rest of the work a lighter tan, without painting or dyeing with a fine brush.I've tried Tandy's Hi-Lite and the results were not that great or different in color. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark

Ok, Thanks, that sounds like the route I'll take with the solder. I have been using an arbor press and a ball bearing to dome them, I will have to check Harbor Freight on a domer.

Is this in the wrong topic or has no one ever tried to make their own?

I plan on making my own buffalo nickel snaps. Does anyone have any experience with solder versus epoxy to do this. Basically what would be the most durable way to do this? Thanks, Mark

No, not lifting the foot, only when turning the pulley by hand.

When sewing with my Seiko sth-8bld-3 under power everything looks great. When I hand turn the pulley ie. around corners ,curves or backtacking it appears that the upper tension is too loose. But as soon as i push my pedal the stitches look perfect. Is that normal or is this operator error. It's 2 pieces of 2oz veg #138 nylon, right now , but happens regardless of thread or thickness. Thanks

Wisconsin here as well, north of Milwaukee.

Thanks, Springfield appearantly makes their own Top Notch interiors and they come with no directions. This helps, I guess the other piece gets sewn in at the bottom and sets under the divider flap, since that piece is not shown. Thank you,

Hello, we just received our Springfield Leather order which had a couple of "Top Notch" wallet interiors we planned to experiment with. So my question is with the 2 extra parts that belong to the interior. I figured the one larger is the security flap or bill hider, but I am really unsure as to what the other thin longer piece does or I guess exactly how those other pieces are to be laid out. Has anyone else here worked with these particular interiors. Thanks

Well I tried holding the block of wax while it was spinning and it did put some wax on the outside it never really did get any penetration into the wool felt.

Ok, Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

This seems to be the problem I am having with a 1/8 spring edge guide foot on my Seiko STH-8BLD-3, I am using #138 thread, 140-22 tri point needle, 8-9 oz vegtan leather. That and the stitch length seems to shorten also when using this foot. I can put the regular foot back on and use a bed mounted guide and and stitch length is good and the leather steers straight. The spring "appears" to move freely but hangs up only occasionally that I can tell when I push it up. I guess I will try and take it apart and clean up the edges and see if it works any better.

So has anyone else made this? I picked up the felt pads and the wax. So the way I understand it you just hold the block of wax as it spins to load the pads?, what about a beeswax and parrafin blend melted into it? Thanks

There is a small amount of play with the foot up, more so if i pull and make the little plate at the top of the arm move , but really not that much, I can pull out the dial indicator if i'm looking for a "range" but roughly 1/64" It does seem to feed better now, minus the footprints on the leather, but the max stitch length seems to be about 3mm, Does that sound about right? There appears to be about 1/16" movement left to right in the shuttle driver.

Hello, we just picked up a Singer 29-4 Patcher from a family friend, It does sew at this time though you kind of have to help feed it. We plan to restore and use it but I recall someone mentioning to check some part or area on the cylinder end area to see if it junk or not. Not quite sure what to look at or for. Thanks in advance.

Hello, we are fairly new at this although we have been tooling around for several months now. We have made several of the Tandy SmartPhone cases, using our veg tanned 4-5 oz. My biggest problem is Velcro for the closure. We have already tried different brands , contact cement, etc. but have been unable to find one so far that sticks good to the leather even after letting it "set" for 24 hours. So my questions would be is there any really good way to fasten the velcro and not interfere with the tooling, would magnets work and not ruin the phone? So basically any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks