steve hansl

I have been trying out my batch of vinegaroon and it works.After neutralizing and rinsing I let it dry overnight and it still smells,good thing it was some scrap pieces.Does it dissipate on its own or do you have to do some other step?Thanks for any help.

Would leather loops work instead of button holes?

I will certainly heed your advice Mr Wizcraft and keep the putting the oil to her.I kind of figured they would need breaking in,I thankyou for the heads up,much appreciated.

I have spent the last couple of days trying out the machine,inbetween serving customers and shoe repairs.I don't know if is just me or not but I think it is running smoother the more I use it.Anyways it looks good in the shop and am looking forward to putting it to work.

I finally started using the HO I got and am real happy ,its the first time I have bought it.Sure takes the dye nicely.Then I got a flyer from Tandy advertising European bends for $99 and figured I would try them again,I got their last 8/9oz and was pleasantly surprised, real nice clean piece of leather.The last time I ordered they messed up my order so I was a little ticked off,I guess I am all better now.

Well the stitcher started to pay for itself today,I had to shorten a belt and it was a tad too thick for my patcher.With the small needle and thinner thread it did a fine job on the dress belt.It 's going to be taking a load off my Adler and from what I have stitched so far I think it is a good machine for a fair price even when I add the shipping on to it.Ron at Raphaels was great to deal with and you can tell when you speak to him he believes in their product.

Well I got my GA5-1R this afternoon from Ron at Raphaels in Montreal and it was packaged real well.It took me longer to unwrap than to set it up and get stitching.I have only tried it out on a couple of pieces of scrap and played with the speed settings but I am liking it.I will use it tomorrow and give an update.I have never operated a cylinder arm machine before only my LandisK12 and my Adler 30-10 patcher but I can see already how it is going to help me increase my business.Cheers.

After using Barge cement for almost the last 20yrs,especially the last gallon,I found it wasn't sticking like it use to.So I tried a gallon of toluene free Renia Super Fix,it has good initial bonding strength and spreads real nice.I have noticed a big difference after alot of gluing,I think due to the lack of toluene.I just got another gallon so it looks like I have switched.Has anyone else noticed a difference?

It would probably be best to redo with a new zipper,I usually like to leave around an inch extra on each end to be safe.

Hey Art,5160 is usually leaf spring.The coil spring has a higher carbon content and a couple of other ingredients to help with retaining the shape.5160 is good blade material.

Any of the higher carbon steels will work ,they just have to be hardened and tempered to meet the needs of the job.Carbon steel tools will rust quite easily without a little care(keep lightly oiled).I use coil springs of all sizes to make all manner of tools and punches.I have engraved a few to stamp my metal work,haven't made any leather specific ones yet,but I am going to stamp my letter "H" on a sheath I'm making to see how it works.Coil spring is usually 1095 so it is a good steel to use and it is tough.

I tried out Caledon sales for the first time because of what Tandy sent me.They sent me a couple of Hermann Oak sides that are just beautiful.Ken is great to deal with and he says they stand behind there products 100%.When I need some more leather I will be calling them again.

When my wife was working with me at our shoe repair she always glued the zippers before sewing,I very rarely glue them.I guess it really depends on the particular job at hand and how well you get along with zippers.I do qiute a few replacements on English riding boots and they can be fun to get both sides even again.

I would be interested to know if you find some that wide,I can only get 8''.Some of the boots also have a zipper in the back with strip of elastic on each side the full length.Thanks.

I don't know if you had a particular make in mind,if not try giving Ron the Techsew guy a call at Raphaels in Montreal.He is a great guy to talk to and the shipping rates he got me to ship my GA5-1R were really good.I am hoping to have it in my shop on monday.

Will anyone know the sheaths are made by you?If not tell him if he uses his way to finish them off you can't guarantee them and take his money.

Try deglazing a small test spot with some acetone,I use it before I redye shoes or boots.

Thanks for the explanation Art.I ordered the GA5-1R from Ron the Techsew guy in Montreal,so I should see it delivered in about 10 days.

The stretch liquid like Sellaris SPS is a superior product compared to the little bottles the shoe stores sell as you can use it inside or outside the footwear.I have been stretching at least one pair of shoes a day for the last 20yrs and have yet had any discoloration or ill effects from the liquid.I totally agree with the point about being careful where you take your work,the person behind the stretcher can cause major damage.

Wet the boots down with rubbing alcohol where they are tight and wear them,keep them moistened until they start feeling good.On the other hand you could get them done at the shoe repair.I think the main ingredient in the stretch liquid is alcohol going by the smell.

I find the hook blades for the utility knives really useful also.

Thanks for the replies,what about the GA5-1R?Also,sorry for my ignorance,what is a needle feed machine.I am a cobbler with an Adler patcher and a Landis outsole stitcher,that is my experience with stitchers.

I am looking at a machine called the Mach 1,does anyone use one or know much about them.Thanks ,Steve.

I'll second the white cutting boards,they lsat a long time.