Chris of WV
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Posts posted by Chris of WV
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So, I've figured out by now that I'm not really cut out for tooling leather... Sure, I could probably get "ok" at it if I worked at it long enough and practiced enough, but with a full-time job, going to college full-time, and now being married as well (although she's a great help, around the the house and working on leather. I assure you, I'm not complaining.), spending much time on working at it is just not an option at this time...
However, on the flipside, I've been selling tons of "plain-jane" items via Etsy, and I now have a contract with an eyewear company to produce some custom glasses cases. Here's some samples of the items I've been making in the last couple months...
Simple Notebook Covers by DavisLeather, on Flickr
Business Card Sleeves by DavisLeather, on Flickr
Business Card Sleeves by DavisLeather, on Flickr
DSC04256 by DavisLeather, on Flickr
Brown Bison Dopp Kit by DavisLeather, on Flickr
Dopp Case by DavisLeather, on Flickr
Dopp Case by DavisLeather, on Flickr
So, there you are and there you have it...
Best Regards,
Chris of WV
Davis Leatherworks
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G'Day,
Amongst my many leather talents, I can also make various leather goods from Cane Toad leather.
I'll attach some pics from my photo page.
I do get a lot of pre-made Cane Toad leather goods like bags, wallets etc. from a taxidermist, but I can also obtain the skins as well to make a lot of my own Cane toad leather goods. The skins can come in a variety of colours.
They are very easy to work with, and , depending on the project, some parts of the skins can be sewn using a domestic machine (with a leather needle), however, because the Cane Toad secretes a toxin from glands near the head, that part is often quite thick & tough ( after tanning) and care needs to be taken not to break a needle when sewing that part.
It does take a little time to trim and arrange the skins,( if making large items) and to sort them as each skin has a *different texture ( *after tanning ,also, males & females have different textures), so a project may take longer than usual to make, but the end result is worth it.
When I make anything from cane toad skins ,I just trim the daggy bits off, I then glue each piece into place and then sew, a bit like putting a jigsaw puzzle together.
Most of the items in the pics are pre-made, but some of my own items are, stubby holders, barrettes, BIC lighter cases, books covers, tobacco pouches and asstd. small items.
http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/
Have a browse at the other Cane Toad pics on my photo page.
Enjoy:yes:
best regards
HS
Would you be interested in selling some skins? I'm looking for some toad skins to use as accents on some things...
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Here are a couple of holsters that I made for a Buck Mark .22 cal. revolver. I still need to add the straps to the bottom one. Comments and critiques always welcome.
Beautiful work, Rohn! Just curious as to the purpose of the strap in the middle of the holster?
Chris of WV
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So, I paid off the layaway on my first revolver last night... Got me a Heritage Rough Rider .22 Combo (Interchangeable chambers lets you shoot .22 LR and .22 Magnum cartridges). It came with a nylon holster, and I knew that there was no way it was ever going to get any closer to the revolver than it got while it was in the box...
So, from 9pm - 1am last night, I stayed up late and crafted a "Slim Jim" holster using the pattern pinned in the Holsters forum. I used "scrap leather" (it had been out in my car and had sun-tanned for a while, and for some reason was noticeably hard to stamp) to make this holster, 7-8 oz for the outside, 3-4 oz. for the inside.
So, I cut out the pattern pieces and stamped my border (yes, I did mean for it to stamp lightly. The leather is some really cheap stuff I bought from Tandy almost a year ago and it has nicks scratches and discolorations, so I decided to make it look a little weathered by not stamping as deep and creating clean lines). A couple coats of medium brown Fiebing's spirit dye, followed by a coat of neatsfoot oil, then I glued the liner in and started punching stitching holes. Sewed on the belt loop, then started stitching it up with brown waxed linen thread. Finished it up and burnished the edges, then a couple coats of Leather Sheen...
Not bad for a one-night quickie, if I do say so myself (which doesn't count for much, lol)...
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Hi Chris:
It's shocking how expensive even scraps are isn't it? I got lucky and found this link in another forum and got 2 pieces of nice sized leather for a pretty good price. (couldn't afford that either but I got it anyway)
http://paleoplanet69...eather-For-Sale
I had to convincel her into taking paypal payments but it worked out ok... I paid a small fee to offset the costs. Anyway, maybe there is something you can use on there.
Hey Sylvia,
Thanks for the tip... I went ahead and bit the bullet yesterday and ended up purchasing a seconds hide from Maverick... The salelady I spoke to (Erin) was very nice and extremely helpful, and when I request the smallest hide they had (to keep my cost low) she obliged by finding one for me that was just a hair under 17 square feet... Ended up costing me about $60. Not bad, really...
I might end up needing more though, so I'll keep your link in mind! Thanks so much!Also, if anyone else has some/knows where to get some cheap, I'm still looking for scraps and smaller pieces...
Thanks,
Chris of WV
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Hey all,
I'm looking to buy some Chromexcel scraps from someone (and when I say scraps, I mean pieces ranging from 1 sf and up), since I can't really afford to purchase a whole hide (holy smokes it's expensive), and I'd like some to try out and practice on... Anyone have any extra lying around they might like to sell?
I'm going to contact Maverick Leather today and see if they have anything, but I'm still open to offers...
Thanks,
Chris of WV
Davis Leatherworks
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Looks good! Less is more, and often times it just takes something as simple as this to look great.
Thanks Tinneal! Hope you have a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful and properous New Year!
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Wristband I made on a whim a while back...
8-10 oz. Tooling Leather from Wickett & Craig, Finished with Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil and a light coat of Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Stitching done with waxed linen thread and finished off with a brass stud...
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He said, "He wanted a veg-tan belt that was 42" long from the tip of the belt buckle to the end of the tongue and that had the center hole punched at 32".
What length was the belt when you sent it to him? Just the belt, not the buckle. Did you supply the buckle?
It sounds like this person has no idea what they need its not common to have 8-10 inches from the most used hole to the end of the belt. Most times you tell people how to measure it and if they can follow instructions you get the right information. We have users here that dont do belts via mail order. They want the person in the shop to take the measurements. Since you are depending on others it can be hard to get the right information.
I am doing one for a person that is 51 inches from the most used hole to the end of the buckle. I asked him to measure it and he gave me a 48" measurement, (his pants size) even though he swore he measured it. You just have to be careful. Some people charge a fee if the belt has to be redone due to the customers fault in sizing. Just make it clear up front.
We would all like to hear what you find out when the belt comes back. keep us informed please.
Michael
Well, I found otu what the problem was... Even though I sent him detailed instructions as well as a diagram on how to measure the belt, he was measuring it differently than I was... So, I got new measurements (hopefully correct this time), and we're gonna try this one more time...
Thanks guys! -
Tell him to return it with a piece of string tied through the hole that he is using and make that you center hole measurement.
Well, that would work for this one belt, but what if he decides to order another one, and what can I do to prevent this problem in the future without having to send the customer a belt and then have them return it to get the correct size?
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Hey Guys, I need some help... A customer ordered a belt from me. He wanted a veg-tan belt that was 42" long from the tip of the belt buckle to the end of the tongue and that had the center hole punched at 32". He gave me the measurements based upon an old belt that he wore ( made the most comfortable hole where he wore it the center hole at 32"). Sent it off... Easy, right?
Wrong... He sent me an e-mail saying that the belt was too small and that he was wearing it on the very last hole. I told him that was no problem and that I'd make him another belt using the same measurements (in case I had screwed my measurements up somehow) and that I would punch a couple extra holes in it, just in case. The last hole on the new belt was at 36" (I space my holes 1" apart). I even measured it with a yardstick and seamstress' tape to double check the measurements (attached is a photo showing the measurements). Sent it off to him with a prayer, and...
Still wrong! Got an e-mail from him saying that he was still wearing it on the very last hole (36"). He told me he wears a size 31 waist jeans, and I know there's no way his clothing is 4" thick (even counting for the thickness of the leather).
Any suggestions of what I may be doing wrong?
I'm using 10 oz. Wickett and Craig tooling leather, btw...
Thanks,
Chris of WV
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Just out of curiosity, could you possibly post a pic of your edges? I've been wanting to try lining a belt and a strap with some suede, but I wasn't sure how the edges would burnish/hold together...
Thanks,
Chris of WV
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The Al Stohlman leather museum is located in Fort Worth, if you can get away. It is a small exhibit, but a must see.
Enjoy!
Unfortunately, that's way out of the way for me, since I'll be busy in the morning and evening (since the campmeeting I'm at has both morning and evening services), and I'm not here by myself... Too bad though, I'm sure it would have been interesting!
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So, I find myself purposefully stranded in Houston, Texas for the next four days, and I was wondering if there's any leather-specific locations I should visit? I plan on making a stop at the local Tandy store (of course, lol), but I was wondering if there were any other locations of interest for leatherworkers in the near vicinity? Thanks in advance!
Best Regards,
Chris of WV (Currently TX, lol)
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If you are going up to W&C, please give Matt a heads up before going. They are strictly a tannery, they may or may not be able to show you around if you just drop in. There is no retail store, going up there is a courtesy they extend at their discretion. And wear Boots not sandals or flip flops.
Art
Oh, I definitely wouldn't show up without asking (and possibly begging and pleading), lol... But I must admit that I would love to see a tannery and learn about how everything works...
Plus, to be honest, I could never afford a trip up there anyhow... 
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Just to clarify, I have no issue with the wait time, to be honest (other than when to expect the draw from my checking), it's the lack of communication... I'm used to waiting for things (an eBay seller had me on hold for two weeks one time, and another vendor had me on hold for a month), but I am used to good lines of communication between the vendor and me... In the cases I mentioned before, the eBayer (and most that I've dealt with since) e-mailed me almost daily, updating me as to the status of my order and what the problem was (they stuck part of my order in with someone else's without realizing it and had to get it shipped back to them and then to me, quite a hassle on their part).
In the case of W&C, I never received an invoice for my total amount (I got a guesstimate from Glenn on the phone, which was close) or any kind of update as to an approximate ship date. I understand that some business' still do business "the old way", with no instant checkouts or anything like that, and to be honest, I don't mind that style of business, since i work at a business just like that (I may be only 21, but I am also one of those people who will drive 20-30 miles out of the way to buy something from a local vendor that I could get online cheaper and even sometimes quicker), but I guess I might want to save up and next time actually go up and visit 'em... A look around + getting some leather seems like a good combination to me, lol...
As I said, no issue with the leather. It truly is Beautiful! And I can't wait to start on making some stuff out of it!
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So, I decided that in order to help my belt business along (and to keep my costs low) I was going to purchase some of Wickett and Craig's English Bridle and Harness Bellies in order to make dress belts (less time in dyeing, finishing, etc.). So, I sent a request for information through their website. The lady that contacted me in reply was super helpful, sent me the sales flyers, and answered a couple questions for me (through e-mail). When it came time to call and place my order, I could not get ahold of her... For three days straight she was there (according to her voice mail, which had the date updated with her voice), but she couldn't get to the phone or was out in another part of the warehouse...
Ok, no biggy, I'll just get ahold of another sales rep. I remember reading Glen's name on the forums here a couple times, so he was next on my list. I got ahold of him on the first try, and he happily took my order, saying they would get it out right away... That was on Tuesday, July 19th. So, I sat (after giving him my credit card information, address, e-mail, phone number, etc.) and watched my bank account, looking for the debit that would denote that my order was being processed... Nothing... No call, no invoice, no e-mail... I was just about to cancel my order this Monday (July 25th), but just as I was getting ready to call I saw the money leave my account for the amount specified. So, I hung up the phone.
I received the leather yesterday, and I will say that it's beautiful (even for bellies), and that I can't wait to make something out of it, but I must say that W&C's customer service leaves a bit to be desired. I know I'm a small fish in a big pond (I can assure you, my order was tiny and my bank account never goes above the three figure mark- one of the reasons I was worried about when the money would be take out, lol), but I did expect a little more... Am I wrong for that?
Best Regards,
Chris
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There's another thing missing, PRICES! Even if you price on a per order basis you should put a range or something on there. I am always reluctant to contact someone about a product if I don't know what price range I am looking at. If it's way out of my league I don't want to waste my time, or theirs.
They are great looking knives though, and I happen to be in the market for a head knife. Too bad I don't know how much yours are! haha.
Prices are there! Just let your mouse hover over the picture to display a tooltip containing pricing, or click on the picture and read the description that pops up!
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Beautiful website! And absolutely STUNNING knives! I only saw one thing that was missing... The link back to Leatherworker.net!
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I'm still pretty new to leather myself, but I'm pretty sure you're talking about the quality of the hides... From the look of your chart, the percentage is the "useable" amount of the hide (which is not marred by scratches, scars, or brands) as well as the quality of the hide itself. Here in the USA, the only designations I've seen are A, B, and very rarely C. As for the TR, that normally stands for tannery run, which is a mixture of grade #1 and #2 (A and B, respectively), and it's kind of a "luck of the draw" type of thing.
As for which is better, A is better than B, and B is better than C, and so on... Also 1 is better than 2, and 2 is better than 3. Basically it comes down to "you get what you pay for"...
Hope I was able to help a little.
Best Regards,
Chris
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Wow... I am in awe of some of the workbenches/spaces that I've seen in this thread thus far... I'm suddenly having dreams of building my own building and outfitting it with all the stuff I could ever use (and a bunch of stuff I never would)...
But that's ok. For now, I'll just stick with the kitchen bar, since it's been working pretty well for me...
Full Workspace - 1/2" Thick UHMW Cutting/Pounding Surface, Granite Slab for Carving/Stamping
Bits and pieces container... Buckles, Thread, Needles, etc...
Custom Skiving Knife, Strap Cutter, Custom Micarta Mallet, Tools Holder (UHMW), Stamps and more Stamps...
My current stamp collection (which is steadily growing... I love finding the old steel craftool stamps on eBay, instead of the plated Taiwan stuff)
Dyes, FInishes, Miscellany, Sharkskin, Snakeskin, etc...
Under the table storage for leather scraps and pieces... Plus, I've got a dining room table that holds my rolled leather and other odds and ends... Too messy to take a pic of it though, lol...
-Chris of WV
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Yep, floor polish which is ....acrylic wax......$5/ 32oz bottle
Fiebing's Resolene....acrylic wax......$5 / 4oz bottle
Cut 50/50 w/ water, spray (works best) or wipe on, let dry, buff, add second light coat, let dry, use as is or add additional coating of neutral shoe polish. Don't build up a lot of it on the leather- just a spray or wipe. Thank you Katsass for the formula.
It seals the leather and after an initial 'tacky' feel, kinda smooths out so there's no plastic feel to it. I did my leatherman case 3 years ago w/ resolene and except for the damage from rubbing on a bucket (aerial bucket truck), the leather looks just as good as back then.
Well, I will definitely have to give this a try... Thanks to both you and katsass for the information!
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Bob's tutorial is available via link from this website. Go to the "How do I do that" section and look for his tutorial- his member name is Hidepounder.
If you've got wax build up in the crevices, you can pick out some of it, but why not just melt it? Then take a brush to it.
And with your bonus money, get a bottle of Mop-n-Glo.
Hey TwinOaks,
Do you mean Mop-n-Glo, like the regular floor cleaner? What can it do, and how do I apply it and finish it?
Thanks,
Chris
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Hey Guys,
Well, I used a toothbrush, and it definitely did remove some of the excess junk... Not all, mind you, but some. So, I'm going to get an actual shoe shine brush (or a stiffer toothbrush) and go to town on it... I also found some glycerin soap (which I had for another project) and used it to reburnish the edge, which made it a lot more smooth...
Still not the prettiest, but it'll work, since it's just a personal belt for me...
I did remember one thing I did differently this time... I cleaned the belt with some saddle soap (which may have been a mistake, come to think of it), and I'm wondering if that's what the majority of the residue is from... The more I use that stuff the less I want to, lol...
But, I just found out today that I'm getting a little bonus on my paycheck this week, so that means I'll be able to afford some stuff... I know I'm going to order some Gum Tragacanth from Springfield, as well as some Leather Balm and Leather Sheen... Anything else you guys might reccomend?
Used Tippmann Aerostitch
in Old/Sold
Posted · Report reply
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone might be interested in purchasing a Tippmann Aerostitch. The machine is very lightly used (maybe 5-10 hours on it), and seems to work fine (as far as I can tell with my limited knowledge), I just don't have time to learn how to use it and get all the tension settings correct (I also prefer saddle stitch to lock stitch).
I have several different types of needles, a large bobbin of thread, two bottom thread bobbins, and the instruction manual. I can also take more pictures, if anyone's interested.
Anyone want to make me an offer?
Thanks,
Chris Davis
Davis Leatherworks