Andrewsky

I'm not sure how to describe them. Dies are available from the company.

These are SOLD PENDING FUNDS to mikesmith648.

Hello, I have an excellent condition Tippmann boss for sale. It is in full working order and comes with an extra bobbin, instructional CD, some thread, and spare needles. My price is $1000. Free shipping in the United States. Paypal (+3%) or USPS money order.

Price reduced to $7.50 each.

Price reduced to 75.00.

Hello, I would like to sell my Press-N-Snap tool. It includes a couple "dies." It is not the whole set of dies that come with these new, so please assume that you will have to buy whatever dies you need. These typically go for over one hundred and fifty dollars new. The price is $95.00. Free shipping in the United States. Paypal or money order accepted.

Hello, I got these items from Tandy a while back. $10 each. Payment method: Cash, check, money order, or Paypal. Free shipping in the United States.

I'm still curious how you are beveling your edges. I'm using a Tandy beveler and don't get that nice rounded edge.

Looks real nice to me. Is it actually loose in the holster right now? I use line 24 snaps from Tandy all the time and have never had finish wear like that at all. If you're trying to sell this thing for $250 I'd worry about the look of the snaps, otherwise you're fine. Edge distance from stitching lines looks good. What kind of tool are you using to bevel your edges? They look nice and rounded. Could you explain exactly how you bone inside the trigger area? That looks really good and I'm not sure how to do that.

That looks really nice. What kind of tool do you use for boning the trigger guard area?

The first reply is wrong. It has nothing to do with the material or the finish. The PPK/S has a longer frame at the grip so they could be imported after the Gun Control Act of 1968.

Hello, I recently made a batch of 4 holsters with 9/10 oz. Hermann Oak. I soaked the CZ-75b one in water for about a half hour. By contrast, the two Glocks and Sig I soaked for only about 3 minutes. I periodically pressed down on the leather with my fingers every two hours for 12 hours after getting them wet. I found that the CZ-75b one moulded very nicely. The lines of the gun can very clearly be seen. This was not true of the other three holsters. I don't know if the one for the CZ worked better because it is a slim pistol, if I soaked it ten times as long as the others, or if it just happened that the pieces of leather for that holsters were a little bit thinner than the ones for the other three holsters. Or perhaps it could be a combination of the three factors? I am wondering if I should just use the 9-10 oz leather for the back and some 6-7 or 7-8 for the front from now on. I would really like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.

Thanks. I just punched a couple slots and they look great. I just put a little tap water on the area before punching.

Hello, I have been using the 1.5" oblong punch from Tandy to create my belt slots. My problem is that at the top and bottom of the slot the leather cracks. You can see it in this picture: Sometimes the cracks are larger. I don't know why this is happening. The tool is used and I haven't run it up against concrete or anything. I am glueing two pieces of 8/9 oz. leather together then punching the slots. The cracks are small at this point, then generally enlarge after I wet the holster. I don't think it'd be a good idea to try to cut the slots after wetting it though. Any ideas?