BEARDOG

The G30 and the G30SF are basically the same, including slide width, The only difference is that the G30SF (short frame) is very slightly shorter from the backstrap to the trigger.(think better for smaller hands) The G30 blue gun should be fine for you to make a G30SF holster.. I think you guys are confusing the newer G30S with the G30SF. The G30S has the thinner slide/barrel of the G36 on a G30SF frame.....So a G30 blue gun would not work to make a G30S holster. PS. There is no manual safety on any standard factory Glock. They all use the Glock "safe action trigger"

Really nice! Your work looks excellent.

Thanks Chief, I just wanted to confirm that others were using #6 for them. I have been using all 8-32 hardware with a little "machining" to the heads, but the PTD snap stud is much shallower then the standard snap stud and I want to get away from fooling around making the hardware fit. I would have preferred staying with the #8 size for strength, But will just order new #6 hardware for the new PTD snaps. I am going with a undercut head so I have as much clearance as possible

OK I just bought my first batch of Pull the dot snaps for IWB loops, and now need to order a box of screws that have heads that will fit down in the stud part and will it allow the snap to function properly. It seems that I am going to have to use a 6-32 T nut and use 6-32 undercut flat head screws. Is this correct? What hardware are you guys using with the Pull The DOT snaps? Thanks!

I believe this is what you seek. http://www.desantisholster.com/store/SEARCH-BY-HOLSTER-OR-ACCESSORY/REPLACEMENT-PARTS/TUCK-THIS-II-SOF-TUCK-REPLACEMENT-BELT-HANGER

Very nice, clean looking work! I think he will be very happy with his gift.

I always put on a coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish over my 50/50 resolene finish as a final finish . That is what I would tell them to use.

I suggest you try Pro oil black dye it will penetrate better then the USMC black, and requires much, much less buffing. After dying any color I always oil, then seal with an acrylic sealer, I use Resolene = No rub off at all.

Thank you all for the very nice compliments! Jaymack, They can be a little tricky with the thickness and trigger guard shape. David, Shark hide is nice to work with IMO, I think the hardest part was laying out and then finding my stitch marks in the deep grooves.

After much inspiration from Shooters and all the other members many great exotic postings... I made a new high ride, OWB, winter carry rig for my Glock 26. I used Black Shark, over Herman Oak dyed Cordovan, with black on the edges and inside and hand stitched w/ black thread. Here it is...

Wow! that is awesome grain. Where do you get your horsehide from? I just got some to try from Springfield but it don't look anything like that!

Very very nice! Is that leather pre dyed that color or did you dye it? If you dyed it what did you use?... My tan fiebings comes out more lt. brown then tan.

Another very nice exotic!

"The 'inside' of the paddle, (that will go closest to the lady's firm, smooth, tend - -- uh, closest to her skin)" LOL ! I am glad to see you are feeling better! This is a very nice rig... I was thinking about trying my hand at making a paddle holster for myself for a quick and comfortable grab and go winter carry holster for my G26 and really appreciate all the info you are sharing.

Looks great Shooter, really like the two exotics together... I want to try a combo myself. I just picked up a few small pieces of different types of exotic hide from Springfield to try, but they only sold the full quill ostrich by the whole hide'$... it quickly was removed from my cart LOL... I agree a 1911 and Kydex just don't go together... Looks well done though.

Beautiful work

The reason that I would pass is...Mostly, the liability of the grip down draw causing the muzzle to sweep the body during the draw... And to a lesser, a small of the back holster causing back injury during a fall.

Instead of a pancake... I would do a field type holster(similar to the nice crossdraw revolver holster you just made) /or an avenger type if you want two belt attachment points...So that it wraps around that big round shape. I think a pancake would sit away from the body so far and also be hard to draw as the gun gets "pinched" as the two sides are pulled down to the body by the belt. I would mold around the bottom of the muzzles so that it would give the gun a stop,Put a few stitches there so that it could not get pushed through. But leave a nice size opening so any water or debris can fall out easily. The trigger area hummm???, I think a open curved front / covered back like a single action western rig would work. Or if you want to cover it I would make a wood spacer that would sit in front of the exposed trigger and use it to mold/stitch a little larger "trigger guard" area. I would put a retention strap on it, just a simple one that goes over the back of the hammer and snaps to the front. That's what I would try anyway.... It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Good luck!

Beautiful work! I love all the exotics.

Denster, are you applying any finish over the drum dyed horse rough out pocket holsters? I worry about bleed out of the dye onto peoples clothes. I have been meaning to order some of the regular horse butts from Springfield just to do rough out items left natural. If the dyed horse would be safe to use as it is with no finish I may try some of it as well. Is there anyway to finish/seal dyed cow or horse rough out and still have it be nice and suede like? Malabar, That holster looks good! and I bet it is comfortable being "soft" to the touch. My holsters (cowhide) are by the time I am done with the wet molding and dye and resolene are sorta like cowdex.... LOL!

I use 8-32 size, and they are available at all my local hardware stores.If I wanted to buy them in bulk I would get them from Fastenal or McMaster-Carr. They have regular zinc plated ones... I would like to know where to get Black T-nuts???

Thanks guys, I guess I will give this mod a shot and see how it works out. I do own a real G26 and every siize 9mm Glock mag there is, so I am good with that.

I was thinking I would buy two G17 Blackhawk dummys (They don't seem to have a G19?) and mod one to a G19...Or if I am feeling really thrifty maybe I can make the 1/2"+/- chunk I cut off replaceable by putting some alignment pins or bolts in the end and just stick it back on to make G17 holsters ??? I should preface this by saying I don't sell holsters yet, but do make them for friends and family so almost $50 for 1 Blue gun is a bit steep at this point in my holster making.

OK trying to save a little $$$...I was going to ask this on one of the gun forums I am on, but you guys will understand how exact this needs to be and have a better answer. What I am thinking of doing is taking a G17 dummy gun and cutting the end of the barrel down to a G19 length then file finish the edge? Would this work for making detail molded holsters? I can't seem to find many pics comparing the real guns but what i did find makes it look like the distance between the take down latch and the rail maybe different??? and that would not make this mod. possible for use in molding holsters... But if the frames are exactly the same, seems this would be a cost effective way to get both size Glocks??? The blackhawk G17 is like 20ish $ so for $40ish You could have both and cover a lot of Glocks. if it would work to just cut one down. Can someone that has them both check and let me know? Thanks!

That is a great looking holster! And I also am loving the Angelus dye job,beautiful, Too bad I just bought 2 qts of Fiebings dye! Oh well, I am definitly going to still buy some Angelus brown to try when I find some, I have been fighting with Fiebings browns for awhile now.... What do you use for a finish over it, and how do you apply it? Resolene???