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6StringGeek

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Posts posted by 6StringGeek

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Selling a beautiful Tippmann 15-ton clicker. We have about 200 clicks through it. We outsourced our clicking to another shop, so we're clearing out our unused equipment.

    This is for local pick-up only in Colorado Springs, CO unless you can schedule a shipper to pick it up. The cost to ship to us from Tippmann was in excess of 500 dollars.

    Will be happy to show unit in operation for serious buyers.

    The clicker weighs over 500 pounds and is in perfect condition. No disappointments. Comes with original manual.

    Price is $2500 firm and comes with a Meco 1,000 pound capacity work table.

    Total value is about $3,250, not including the cost of shipping.

    Link for full description from their website: http://www.tippmannindustrial.com/clicker-1500-die-cutting-machine-p-36.html

    Thanks for looking.

  5. Posted · Edited by 6StringGeek · Report reply

    FOR SALE:

    26 Horween hard-rolled horsehide butts and 4 scrap butts that are about 60-75% complete (a few clicks were taken from each). They average 10-12" wide at the widest point and taper from there. Some are wider, some are smaller. Most of them are 40-48" long. We ordered them directly from Horween. Check out their website, or Zack White's if you need to look at pics or verify pricing.

    Sorry, we cannot break up the lot...we're selling all of the pieces in one order.

    Price is $425 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 via UPS, insured.

    PayPal for payment.

    Thanks for looking!

    Here's a quick pic: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh94/6StringGeek/h3.jpg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I am thinking of trying out a piece of drum dyed leather from Zack White. If I like it I would like to make some bulk purchases...but to save money I like to go the source vs the middle man.

    The leather is 7/8 ounce pre-finished corrected grain leather as seen here:

    http://www.zackwhite.com/7--8oz-Pre-finished-Embossed-Grain-Double-Shoulders_p_3906.html

    Does anyone know where this can be purchased in bulk at wholesale?

    Thanks for reading.

  9. Posted · Edited by 6StringGeek · Report reply

    HI. I am selling sixty (60) 5-7oz Horween Russet Horsehide strips that average 48-52" long and average 14-15" wide at their widest point. Decided that I need a lighter weight for my projects.

    TWO OPTIONS:

    - Selling half (~ 51 pounds/30 strips) for $450 + shipping

    - Selling the lot (~ 102 pounds/60 strips) for $850 + shipping.

    Sorry, can not break up into smaller quantities than listed above.

    See pics and description here: http://thetanneryrow.com/russet.html

    dan

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Does anyone have the 700? How is it working out for you? Any long term reviews out there?

    Are there any other mfrs out there that I should take a look at?

    I will be using whatever clicker I get for leather in the range of 5 to 10oz.

    Thanks for your time and info.

    dan

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I am looking for suggestions on a hydraulic or pneumatic clicking press. I am not sure how many tons I need though.

    I need it to click 7/8oz leather. The die I use is about 6x9 inches.

    Any suggestions, links or info is appreciated.

  14. Posted · Edited by 6StringGeek · Report reply

    I just bought some of these clips from knifekits: http://www.knifekits...roducts_id=1323

    They have a nice hook you insert behind your belt that grabs the underside of the belt. I am looking for the best way to attach it to a holster. It seems that if I were to sew it on with leather that there would be no room for the belt, or the leather would interfere with the hook being able to grab the belt. I know I must be missing something obvious,

    Any help appreciated.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    It really depends on what you are using to stain the leather. If you use spirit dyes (alchohol based) or oil dyes, then you'll need to buff it really well before doing anything else to it. That removes the unabsorbed color particles. With Eco-flo dyes, or acrylic paints, I think something like super/satin sheen or resolene is a good choice for the first step. After that, shoe polish can be applied. If you use vinegaroon, no additional finish is needed. If you only condition with oil and let it "sun-tan", then a coat of shoe polish could be the top coat.

    I am using eco-flo dyes. Thanks for the response.//dan

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I am finishing my first real attempt at a holster and have a few questions:

    Is it ok to stain, let dry and then just wax the leather with neutral shoe polish or similar...or do I also need to seal it with something like super shene?

    Just curious if the shoe polish accomplishes the same thing, or if I have to do both.

    Thanks. Have a safe 4th!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    @6stringgeek welcome aboard, and someone needs to open the old ones once in a while there are way to many for all of us to remember.

    First question: why would you want to soak your leather for so long?

    My take: if you look at the ingrediants they are pretty much the same stuff, wood stains have a courser grind to the pigments is about the only differance that I can tell, I think I've used probably six differant colors and all had the same results, they work great. always even color dispersion, and if you use the all in ones they produce exactly the same way all the rest of the stains do.

    If you want a darker color as long as you don't let them dry completely and seal the pores you do exactly the same thing as if you were staining wood, put on another coat and then buff it off, repeat until you get desired color. I don't know how they would react in an airbrush but they work pretty good in an air sprayer, (they all come with stain tips). I've even tried most of the ECO-Flow dyes and they aren't close. The only dye that I absolutely will ONLY EVER use from Feibings is USMC Black. But even that I think I'm going to start using vinegaroon but thats whole nother ball game right there....

    Just my opinion is all

    Peace

    Bryan

    My thought on trying to soak the leather instead of painting the dye on was because I read about someone doing it on another forum to achieve more penetration...and I am pretty new to this stuff...so not sure what is a good idea and what will ruin a project. Thanks for your reply...I really appreciate it.

    I am using the eco flow dyes now, but they are pretty expensive compared to a can of oil-based stain...so in the interest of saving a few bucks I thought I would try it out.

    Thanks again Bryan!

    There is a reason they make wood stain and leather dye. I have tried this years ago and never got good results from wood stain.

    Thanks, sir. I'll try it out (since I have an old can in the garage) and see if I get lucky. Appreciate your input and experience.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all...been lurking for awhile, but finally registered recently. You guys do some great stuff with leather.

    So, for my first post I am digging up a 2 year-old thread...hope that's ok.

    My question: I am making holsters and want to dip dye 8oz pieces into oil based wood stain to see how well it covers (plus it's cheaper where I live).

    Is there an issue with leaving the leather in the stain for an entire day, an hour, 5 hours?

    Will it affect the leather in a way that makes it too soft for a holster? Or will the leather dry to its original flexibility/strength?

    Thanks for such a cool resource.

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