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6StringGeek

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Everything posted by 6StringGeek

  1. I don't think it's ideal for tooling. It's pretty firm. It does take our stamps well, but we really have to soak it first.
  2. Selling a beautiful Tippmann 15-ton clicker. We have about 200 clicks through it. We outsourced our clicking to another shop, so we're clearing out our unused equipment. This is for local pick-up only in Colorado Springs, CO unless you can schedule a shipper to pick it up. The cost to ship to us from Tippmann was in excess of 500 dollars. Will be happy to show unit in operation for serious buyers. The clicker weighs over 500 pounds and is in perfect condition. No disappointments. Comes with original manual. Price is $2500 firm and comes with a Meco 1,000 pound capacity work table. Total value is about $3,250, not including the cost of shipping. Link for full description from their website: http://www.tippmannindustrial.com/clicker-1500-die-cutting-machine-p-36.html Thanks for looking.
  3. FOR SALE: 26 Horween hard-rolled horsehide butts and 4 scrap butts that are about 60-75% complete (a few clicks were taken from each). They average 10-12" wide at the widest point and taper from there. Some are wider, some are smaller. Most of them are 40-48" long. We ordered them directly from Horween. Check out their website, or Zack White's if you need to look at pics or verify pricing. Sorry, we cannot break up the lot...we're selling all of the pieces in one order. Price is $425 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 via UPS, insured. PayPal for payment. Thanks for looking! Here's a quick pic: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh94/6StringGeek/h3.jpg
  4. I am thinking of trying out a piece of drum dyed leather from Zack White. If I like it I would like to make some bulk purchases...but to save money I like to go the source vs the middle man. The leather is 7/8 ounce pre-finished corrected grain leather as seen here: http://www.zackwhite.com/7--8oz-Pre-finished-Embossed-Grain-Double-Shoulders_p_3906.html Does anyone know where this can be purchased in bulk at wholesale? Thanks for reading.
  5. The leather I get from the tannery tends to be dirty; sometimes really dirty. I usually just scrub it quick with a damp sponge. Are there better options for this, or is this method just fine? Thanks!
  6. HI. I am selling sixty (60) 5-7oz Horween Russet Horsehide strips that average 48-52" long and average 14-15" wide at their widest point. Decided that I need a lighter weight for my projects. TWO OPTIONS: - Selling half (~ 51 pounds/30 strips) for $450 + shipping - Selling the lot (~ 102 pounds/60 strips) for $850 + shipping. Sorry, can not break up into smaller quantities than listed above. See pics and description here: http://thetanneryrow.com/russet.html dan
  7. Does anyone have the 700? How is it working out for you? Any long term reviews out there? Are there any other mfrs out there that I should take a look at? I will be using whatever clicker I get for leather in the range of 5 to 10oz. Thanks for your time and info. dan
  8. Thanks so much. I will check it out.
  9. I am looking for suggestions on a hydraulic or pneumatic clicking press. I am not sure how many tons I need though. I need it to click 7/8oz leather. The die I use is about 6x9 inches. Any suggestions, links or info is appreciated.
  10. Thanks I'll try that. I was wondering if it being loose in the sleeve would be a issue...
  11. I just bought some of these clips from knifekits: http://www.knifekits...roducts_id=1323 They have a nice hook you insert behind your belt that grabs the underside of the belt. I am looking for the best way to attach it to a holster. It seems that if I were to sew it on with leather that there would be no room for the belt, or the leather would interfere with the hook being able to grab the belt. I know I must be missing something obvious, Any help appreciated.
  12. I am using eco-flo dyes. Thanks for the response.//dan
  13. I am finishing my first real attempt at a holster and have a few questions: Is it ok to stain, let dry and then just wax the leather with neutral shoe polish or similar...or do I also need to seal it with something like super shene? Just curious if the shoe polish accomplishes the same thing, or if I have to do both. Thanks. Have a safe 4th!
  14. My thought on trying to soak the leather instead of painting the dye on was because I read about someone doing it on another forum to achieve more penetration...and I am pretty new to this stuff...so not sure what is a good idea and what will ruin a project. Thanks for your reply...I really appreciate it. I am using the eco flow dyes now, but they are pretty expensive compared to a can of oil-based stain...so in the interest of saving a few bucks I thought I would try it out. Thanks again Bryan! Thanks, sir. I'll try it out (since I have an old can in the garage) and see if I get lucky. Appreciate your input and experience.
  15. Hi all...been lurking for awhile, but finally registered recently. You guys do some great stuff with leather. So, for my first post I am digging up a 2 year-old thread...hope that's ok. My question: I am making holsters and want to dip dye 8oz pieces into oil based wood stain to see how well it covers (plus it's cheaper where I live). Is there an issue with leaving the leather in the stain for an entire day, an hour, 5 hours? Will it affect the leather in a way that makes it too soft for a holster? Or will the leather dry to its original flexibility/strength? Thanks for such a cool resource.
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