randypants
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Posts posted by randypants
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Simple holster I am currently working on, threw it into the vac bag to see what happened. I like the results so far.
your vacuum bags work better than mine. looks like you didn't leave enough room in front of the trigger guard for an effective grip.
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This might be the place http://turtlefeather...ngelus/dye.html. I've used them in the past, good service.
Cheers,
Clair
thanks
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i saw someone on here list a place where you can buy Angelus dyes in larger than 3oz bottles, but i forgot where.
anyone know?
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It's died with Crimson Eco-Flow, and then Supersheen to finish as I mentioned. So antiquing will work on top of super sheen? I knew it was meant for similar things, but the examples I found weren't starting from dyed&finished leather. I'll have to head out to the Tandy and get my hands on some.
The mark stamp isn't very deep at all... I think I may need to purchase a maul or something... I can do normal tooling just fine with the rawhide mallet, but stamps and strap punches never seem to work well, and that's the only thing I can think to try.
Thanks.
antiquing is SUPPOSED to go over your finish, so as not to bleed into or make the leather you've already dyed muddy. after applying your finish and it dries, you apply your antique. after that dries, apply another finish coat, or two.
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i've had it take up to a week for the smell to go away, but it's always gone away. letting the 'groon age properly, using the right amount of steel, and following the step-by-step procedures on this forum will get you a long way.
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Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice. Recently I began noticing water stains on the leather after drying. I have read through old post to try to figure out the issue, but not sure what to think. I have been using a space heater to speed up the drying process...could that be causing the problems? I have hard water, so I soaked one mag pouch in "bottled" water to see if there was a difference, both came out with problem areas. I also re-soaked one in good water, but it dried with the same marks. I have seen a lot of quality defects in the leather (cheap), but mainly discolored bumps not these obvious water marks that become visible when drying. I don't recall this happening before, I think the only thing I have changed is using the heater. Could it be drying too fast? too hot? I try to keep it about 120-130F but I know it has gotten higher at times. Thanks for the help!
only thing i can think of(and i could be wrong) is that either;
A ) the quality of the leather is poor
or
B ) you're soaking the leather too long.
if i'm submerging the leather, i don't hold the leather in the water for more than 5 to 8 seconds. i also dry it in the oven.
i've never had that problem.
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I like the "character" lines, it's the dark line and the other mark that bothered me.
Looks like I was a litle careless laying it face down on the bench.
Eric
i do all my work, if i have to lay the leather grain side down, on carpet. do my cutting on it as well. just need to make sure it's vacuumed real well. if i'm sewing or lacing something, i do it in my lap. it helps to keep unwanted marks from happening, which i've had happen a lot.
randy
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Aloha;
I just finished my first seat, no tooling, I wanted to practice lacing. For the first time since Cub Scouts,
(40 years) I'm not unhappy. When I sealed it with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene, some surface flaws popped up. Look like they were small scraches. Any sugestions for the next one?
thanks Eric
it's not the finish, it's the leather. some of them look like fine scratches, which to me, just adds to the look, doesn't detract. some of them look like marks made by a stylus, or some other marking tool. did you case or wet the leather at all? if you did, then anything it touches leaves a mark.
next time, before dying and finishing, take the leather and hold it under a bright light and move it at different angles, looking closely, to see if you can see marks that can be covered up with a modeling spoon or some similar tool.
Randy
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Found this belt photo on the internet, I i really like it. Maybe someone even knows who made it? But my question is, What is the finishing process, if anyone knows or has some ideas on it?
i could be wrong, but it looks like a natural finish, then antiqued,
do your carving, oil, no dye or stain, finish(resolene, or whatever you prefer), antique, finish again.
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<br />I'm guessing your friend found another solution.....<br />he did. thanks for the offer though.
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Hi Folks,
I am in the process of making a kindle cover for my wife. She saw one that the likes online. The name of the color that they use is wine. If I want my dye job to have an end result like this, what kind and or color would you suggest? I don't remember seeing a dye caller "wine". I do think I have seen maroon.
Thanks for any suggestions
Rob
you could also try Fiebings Chocolate. it's a dark chocolate, but diluting with denatured alcohol helps with that.
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Hey All,
Got another one done this weekend, thought you'd like to see it. This one is in 5/6 ounce Vegetable tanned leather. I did a rather unique dye job on this: oiled it with mink oil and then sprayed diluted brown dye onto it with a spray bottle. This way the dye did not quite soak in due to the oil and left a rather cool mottled appearance (kind of a nice antique effect). Came out rather nice I think! Finished off with neatsfoot oil and Resolene.
Thanks for looking!
Andy
i was thinking about trying this. did you spray it over the entire piece, or just in some spots? i like the look you got from it.
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Those aren't imperfections. A knife maker friend of mine calls them "subtle variations in the hand-crafted product."
Bronson
i like that. definitely gonna use it
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LMAO! Thanks much for starting my day off the right way
i do what i can.
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i took the guard off so that i could get a better angle. i was sanding the back of a piece of leather 10"x16", and with the guard on, it's hard to get a piece that size in my belt sander and get it smooth.
I work with a lot of leather and the fact that if it dead skin generally does not bother me. BUT, when I belt sand it I really feel like I am in a version of Silence of the Lambs. I have never had anyplace near the mess you have there.
Aaron
first thing i thought when i looked down was, "at least it made my beard look cool".
Ha ha ha ha..... that is priceless!!
Very metal too \m/
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it's simple. go slow, pay attention, and if it gets out of hand, take pictures.
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That's a cool Honda chop! I love it!
And let's hope that guy doesn't ride through AZ with that seat. What MC is it?
Loose Cannons M/C
and no, i'm not posting any pics.
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This is how i feel about the name stamped on a motorcycle
Yes, it's a '71 Honda CB750. yes, i also own a Harley. Names don't mean shit. the bike is what matters. make it your own. love it. if someone else doesn't, sucks to be them.
Ok, please/////pretty/////please....dont tell anybody, but this seat combo goes on a ****** Yamaha...yeahhh, I know....but he is a good friend of mine....so I just had to help, haha....and while I was at it I made him a matching wallet.....at least all his new stuff is now made in USA!!...
Greetings...
Please NO trash mail from "China moped" owners....just kidd'n...hohohahahaheheheee....
James
James, where did you get the skull design? that design is the center patch design for one of the M/C's here in AZ.
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5 to 6 oz. might be slightly heavy, depending on how large you want this wall hanging, but lighter than the heavy stuff, yet heavier than the light stuff.
Hello all,
I have been a silent member of this community for a short while now and appreciate all the information shared here. Now I have a question to add to the roster as I haven't found the answer on the forums. I apologize if I missed it.
My husband and I want to tool a leather wall hanging, but are unsure about the type/weight of leather for this. We want it to hang nicely and not fight the wall by curling in or away from it yet still be strong enough to accept tooling. Any suggestions?
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So I want to make a tool bag for myself. And I'm wondering what size of leather to use. What I mean by size is should I use 4 to 5 or 6 to 7 well you get the idea.
8 to 9oz is pretty sturdy. 11 to 12oz is thick as shit. if you make it out of 11 to 12oz, make your straps out of the 8to 9 oz.
good luck.
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Thanx!!
on the third picture you can see the bottom peice of leather... that is how Iglued it, then came the stitches and I cut around the stitches about 1 cm all around...
so, red piece is still in one piece
) but cut so it is easyer to shape the seat...cheers,
Silk
thanks.
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Actually I just need to find an alternate lining material and I should be ok. The sheaths just come out really substantial when I use the remnants I've been using. To me they feel like they'll be around forever. This dilemma comes from using the scrap leather from tandy. Usually the pieces big enough for what I want to accomplish are also fairly thick. Need to find some thin upholstery leather to use as a liner I guess or keep recessing my snaps with my dremel tool.
Springfield leather has good prices on lining leather.
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Beautiful seat!
quick question. the bottom piece of leather(the red piece), is it the same size as the top(black)? or did you cut out all the inserts, then stitch them on?
An improvisation from last night... I ran out of spunge so I finished it this morning... it's a birthday prezent to a friend...
seat - uncut
seat - cut
seat polished and lacquered...
cheers,
silk
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But Blazin is dealing with *two* 10 oz layers - mega thick! LOL
yep, i missed that. looks like his only option is to set 'em between the layers.
Old Dogs And New Tricks
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Posted · Report reply
i heard a rumor(maybe just someone trying to push their water based stains and dyes on me) that the EPA is working on banning spirit based dyes. anyone heard any truth to this?