DonBurch

It is important to skive the leather where it overlaps. This will thin it down enough to make it easier to punch through. Drilling would be my second choice, but proper skiving will make the belt look more professional when finished.

Thank you all for your suggestions. In case anyone is interested, I have attached an image to show the difference between the acorn finial and the Sam Browne stud (sold by Tandy) that have been discussed here. This should be a fairly accurate size comparison based on the information I've gathered. Note there is difference in how they are set. If you use a Sam Browne stud, Tandy sells an avil to set it (item #8112-00). I don't know about a manufactured anvil for the acorn stud.

Art, I appreciate your reply. I figured there must be a specific anvil needed since that is what a rivet requires to be set. I don't have metal working skills, but suppose I could try to fashion something to fit this acorn stud. Neither source I have found have been very helpful about setting the stud (names intentionally withheld). Seems like either company would be selling correctly shaped anvils as well. I may just try and use a Sam Browne stud or a button stud, but neither are correct for the period. My local leather store carries Sam Browne and button studs so I guess I could look further into this option. If anyone has further ideas I would love to hear them.

Art, Hopefully my attempt at including an attachment has worked. The stud I'm referring to has an acorn shape so it is pointed on one end. It doesn't have a rounded shape quite like the Sam Browne stud.

I want to make an Indian War era style holster (probably 1874 or 1879). I have found two sources that sell the acorn style finial (stud) and I also have appropriate patterns. How do I properly set the brass finial without causing it to be misshapen when I peen the end over the washer?

Great...thanks for the cuff patterns. I'll give them a try!

I recently found two white-tail deer hides that a late uncle had tanned. This leather is naturally thin. Unfortunately it is stiff and dry, but thankfully not cracked. Can someone give advice on how I might soften it up? I would also like to dye it so the softening process needs to not interfere with the hide absorbing dye.