Chavez

Thanks Michael, Right... I've measured 450ml of tap water (should be close to 450g, i.e. 1lb). Poured this water into a condom (assumed negligible weight) and tied it to the shuttle thread. Set the right tension on the shuttle, and the top thread doesn't pull the bobbin thread into the leather at all =( Boss still skips an occasional stitch and the shuttle driver still has some slack (don't think that bobbin tension affects it =( ). Looks like its an email to Tippmann =(

Thank you Denster - I've been trying it on a rather shaky table, so I'll give it a go on a sturdy one instead. Tension wise, I've reduced the bobbin tension as much as I could but still could not get great results. I'll do a few more runs tomorrow and see how it goes. Does your handle also "jump" when you are pushing it up as the top thread slips from the bobbin?

Hi! I got my boss a couple weeks ago and didn't have enough time to sort out the thread tension yet, but having played with it again today I think something might be wrong with my timing =( I would probably have to email/call tippmann, but before I do that I thought I'd ask here. The problem I get is that my bobbin thread is not being pulled into the leather by the top thread, even if I set bobbin tension to min and increase top tension. What I've noticed today: 1) My shuttle driver seems to have some free movement (about 3-4 degrees), even if I hold the handle still. On rare occasions this results in the shuttle not catching the top thread. Any advice on how to fix it? 2) My thread seems to be fraying even though the needle is the right size. 3) The Boss is very jerky when I'm pushing the handle up. this occurs when the top thread is being pulled up by the thread take-up hand and the top thread gets stuck while looping around the bobbin. As I keep pushing the handle, the tension builds up and the thread slips from the bobbin, making the handle jump up. This issue makes me think that my timing might be off. Any advice would be very welcome! Thank you!

Hi Mike, Thanks for the advice. I've set the bobbin tension to what I believe is about 1 pound drag, but I still can't get the top thread to pull in the stitch. I get slightly better results when I add some tension on the primary wheel, but still far from perfect and the stitches seem to lack consistency even though I make sure I cycle the handle all the way. Any more tips & tricks on how to get the Boss working?

Hi. My boss has finally arrived today, so I've decided to do some testing sewing 2 scraps together (each about 4oz). The first few attempts have resulted in bobbin thread lying flat on the back side of the leather. Having done some searching on this forum I came to a conclusion that the bobbin tension was way too high (I could hardly pull the bobbin thread out of the shuttle with the factory settings). I've spent a few hours experimenting with tensions but could not get any consistent results =( What is the correct procedure to find the right upper & lower tensions? Any advice would be very welcome! Shall I just set the upper primary & secondary according to Boss instructions & then keep adjusting the lower tension until it starts working? Thank you!

Thank you for the advice! After a bit of googling - this tool is called a "dual blade awl" over here

Thank you! I actually just typed "brass studs" into google and it came up with the website. My supplier doesn't have any tools like this but I think I'll ship it from the US. What do you do with them after you've pushed the prongs through? gently bend the prongs with pliers or just hammer the dickens out of them?

Hi! Can somebody please help me with some advice on installing studs? I've been asked to put some studs on a dog collar and I got myself some studs to try out: They are brass studs with two prongs. Similar to the ones in this picture: http://studsandspikes.com/buy/images/cones_1-2inch_black.jpg How does one install these and how much of the prong should be sticking out of leather to safely fasten them? I've got a feeling that such studs will fall off very quickly if the collar is brushed against anything, but would really appreciate any comments and suggestions! So far I have tried punching 2 holes for the prongs with a diamond awl and putting the stud in, but it looks like if the holes are off by only 0.5-1mm, the studs pull on the leather, creating lots of wrinkles =(

Hi Doug, I've been using a cheap craft scalpel set with thin handles until i switched to clicker knives and I would recommend the "fat" handle of a clicker over a thinner "pencil" handle. Although I've got quite big hands. I've got straight & curved osborne blades, one in an osborne handle and one in a slightly bigger Woodware rep. handle. The quality of the handle does not matter that much as long as it can hold the blade ok. From what I understand, you are looking for a craft scalpel, which is 100% interchangeable with a clicker knife. Just make sure you can source curved blades as well as straight ones. And only buy top quality scalpel blades. I've had a cheaper blade snap at the base while I was cutting 8oz leather and the sharp blade flew right into my face and hit my glasses (lucky i was wearing them). This is less likely to happen to a clicker blade. There are plenty craft scalpels on ebay.

Hi Horrrk, I'm sure you'll be able to make something like this in a few months time. I've only been leatherworking in my free time for about 11 months, so I am still a newbie=) I don't know about ghost recon, but I got my nickname a few years ago when I got a bad case of hay fever and somebody noted that I looked like Hugo Chavez. Then the nickname stuck =)

Hi. I'm about to test my anti-ruboff method for a third time now. Making a black watch band and I don't want it rubbing off on my shirts. First, I've made one black phone belt pouch finished with resolene (edges finished with atom wax+resolene) and I got very little ruboff in the first month, then it stopped at all. Resolene seals the dye really well, but I don't really like the glossy look it gives to leather. My current method is to dye, rub the grain a bit, wash the grain with some saddle soap, oil, rub. Then the only thing that you should avoid is using a waxy finish that lifts up a lot of dye (aussie's and atom wax lift loads!). Bag kote will do, however, one of my belts is finished with just carnauba creme and it gives very little to no ruboff. Nothing that can be seen unless you know where to look for it and nothing that can't be cleaned in a wash). You don't have to rub with sand paper A cotton cloth will do, so your edges are not in danger!

Hi Bob. Its bag kote and then a coat of golden mink oil paste. It is far from being waterproof, but it protects from accidental splashes. Looking back I'd use a few coats of aussies instead.

Thank you James!

Thanks Rick! Do you get any damage to the grain or carved areas when using the brush? And do you get any deformation at all?

I'll "up" this thread and hopefully somebody will help us with some advice =)

Amazing! Is this a box for the medals?

Thank you! I've been diluting 50-50, but I haven't tried dip-dyeing yet.

Hi, Sorry to cut into your thread, but Aaron, do you cut your dye before using it for dip-dyeing? What proportion of spirit to dye do you normally use? Thanks!

Well, I managed to get an extra half an hour yesterday to play with a little wood plane (see link below) http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?client=opera&rls=en-GB&q=silverline+plane&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10991320928050194906&sa=X&ei=OYEvUImEELDY0QXK44D4DA&ved=0CGgQ8wIwBA I did not have enough time to grind all the machining traces off the blade, but I got it reasonably sharp and tried to skive a short strap. The results were as follows: 1) Blade sticking out just a bit; mouth almost closed: The plane doesn't skive, but it does a great job shaving the flesh side. So if you want to make an unlined item and you have a "hairy" flesh side, the plane does a great job of smoothing the flesh. 2) Blade sticking out a lot, mouth wide open: The blade digs into the leather deep and tries to bite off quite a chunk of the flesh side, making skiving very difficult. Thickness of leather skived off lacks consistency. 3) Blade sticking out a bit less than in (2); mouth closed to leave about 1- 1.5mm gap: The plane skives leather. It skives it pretty well, although I still didn't get that much consistency with it, although I got more control than in (2). I skived a 7oz strap down to about 3-5oz. The biggest problem is that leather is soft, so the plane skives at an angle if you don't get the pressure right and keep it parallel to the strap. This is how I ended up with 3oz on the left side of the strap and 5oz on the right =( Overall the results seem okish for the first try. I'll play a bit more with the blade angle later to see if I can get better results. Its definitely better than skiving the whole length os a strap with a pairing knife, but I don't think it justifies not buying a splitter unless the results improve. Oh yes, and this way of skiving is quite messy, with bits of flesh side flying all over the place if youre not careful! Saffo, how did you make your little your little splitter?

Thank you. That's exactly the set up I was thinking of!

Thanks! A quick search shows that 277 is the thickest thread that's sold in the UK, so I think I'll get a few 346 with the machine just to have them handy. Has anyone tried to use linen thread in the machine? And what about lubrication? =/

Thank you very much for the answers! Looks like I might get the A few more questions if you don't mind: 1) Are there any parts that tend to wear out faster than the rest (do I need to get any spares right away? I hope not, as I expect it to be pretty well built ) 2) Thread lubricant - I thought one would use nylon thread just "out of the box". Does it need to be lubricated? 3) Tread wise, by converting linen count to tex and tex to everything else, it seems like 18/4 is close to nylon 346 and 18/5 is something like nylon 415. However I read that nylon 277 (18/3) is the most commonly used thread and in linen terms that's as thin as I'd ever go for stitching leather =/. I am still very confused, but at least I am starting to figure out what size I need. Would you say that 346 is a good size to use (I'll buy them all sooner or later but don't want to end up with a truck of spools . Here is a good article if anyone else is trying to figure sizes out: http://designer-entrepreneurs.com/blog/illustrations/Thread_Sizes.htm 4) Can I use linen thread with the machine? Thanks again! I wouldn't know what to do without all your advice!

Hi Saffo, I need to split 1-2 inch straps. I thought about making a splitter that would use regular double-edged razor blades (I have lots of them - go through 4 blades a month and they are still pretty sharp for splitting when I bin them.) but couldn't think of anything that would work that's easy to make with some spare materials that I have. I'll try and see if the plane works first =) Hi Saffo, I need to split 1-2 inch straps. I thought about making a splitter that would use regular double-edged razor blades (I have lots of them - go through 4 blades a month and they are still pretty sharp for splitting when I bin them.) but couldn't think of anything that would work that's easy to make with some spare materials that I have. I'll try and see if the plane works first =)

Hi! Looking at the lovely discount offered by Tippmann, I have decided to buy my Boss a few months sooner than I planned. Having never owned or used a sewing machine before, all the bobbins, walking feet, flatbeds are driving me nuts . So, before I place an order, I hope that somebody would be kind enough to help me decide what accessories I need (if any) to get with the machine. I plan to use the machine for stitching belts, bridle, cases, book covers, and general leatherwork. 1) Spare bobbins - is it a good idea to have a few bobbins or is one enough? 2) Flat bed - I guess since it is only used for thin materials, I don't need it? Or is 1mm veg-tanned kip a thin material when used for lining 2mm leather? 3) Any essential extra presser feet? 4) The material guide - how useful is it and would you recommend getting one? 5) The led light seem like a useful attachment - has anyone used it? 6) Threads and needles. I have only used linen thread so far. What is the nylon equivalent of 18/4, 18/5 and 18/6 ? I found a couple conversion tables here but they do not mention linen =( Thank you very much for your help!

Hi ferg, I'll let you know if it works when my plane arrives. I don't think holding the leather will be a problem as I only need to skive leather straps, but the blade angle might need a bit of adjustment. Of course there is also the problem that even if it does skive, it will only skive a fixed thickness off the leather, so the thickness of the actual piece with the grain may vary (which won't happen with a splitter). But if it does work, it will be a great tool to use until I buy a proper splitter!