MadMorbius

Gave up on the stirrup plate and tried to revert. Now I'm missing sitches. I changed the needle and adjusted the tension, re-threaded the machine....I'm about ready to jump out a window. EDIT - Note to self and others reading....make sure the needle is *completely* inserted before freaking out and thinking you have a timing problem. Time to walk away from this for awhile...back to mostly normal operation for now. Wondering if my stirrup plate issue was also related to the needle being improperly reinserted after I pulled it out to check the size Will try again later.

Backed it way off..and it doesn't seem to be making any measurable difference to how the stitch is coming out a this stage. I'm getting very, very frustrated with this process

It seems to have gotten much better with the above adjustment and further tightening of the top tension but I believe I've hit the point where it's not getting any better now regardless of what I do...diminshing returns as it were.

HI Wiz, hoping these photos are sufficient. Here's the view from the right side of the machine: Here's the back, looking at the tension disks: Here's the underside of a piece of 10oz leather I use to test with: I confirmed the needle size is 180. EDIT - FYI noticed the thread was off the side tension disk when I took this shot...fixed that and testing now.

Hi Wiz, thanks. I'm using 207 thread with a 180 needle I think, I can't remember for sure but will verify shortly (once I can find my magnifying glass). I don't have anything smaller or bigger in the color I'm working with but if required I can fill a bobbin with 138 with another color to test the smaller thread on the bottom option. Pics will be up shortly. Very much appreciate your assistance.

The bottom thread is basically straight along the bottom of the work, not tucked up into the work at all. I have one response that suggest tightening bobin tension, another that suggests loosening. Looks like either way I'm mucking with it. Will report back.

I'll check but I believe it's threaded properly. The only reason I made any adjustments is due to the installation of the stirrup plate.

Hey all, on to the next chapter of the "Rob sets up his expensive machine" saga. I just installed the stirrup plate for the Techsew 5100, and I can't seem to get the tension set right. No matter how much I tighten the top tension, I still have loops on the bottom. I dread adjusting the bobbin tension but am I correct in assuming the next step here is to loosen it up? I'm sort of concerned at the amount of adjustment required to dial this in...and hoping I'll be able to use it for multiple purposes once I get i set up and not have to switch the plates out too frequently (feed dog removal, bobbin and thread adjustments....ugh). Thanks - Rob

Does anyone have any recommendations on protective finish and care for pre-stained English Bridle leathers, specifcaly the W&C variety? W&C claims none is required, but I'd like a second opinion.

I don't know how you get much simpler than tracing onto cardboard, but interesting to find someone who will laser-cut my templates

You may be a novice leatherworker but are you familiar with textile work in general? IE, how to use machines, stitching & assembly methods, etc? Piping is just any material run between the joints on an inside gusset. I see bias tape on the edge which is easily done with a bias feeder mounted in front of the foot of the machine. If you're planning on making it out of vegtan leather you don't need that, you can just put a nice bevel and burnish on the edges. I wouldn't call it a novice project, but I'd go for it. You could do this with a half shouler of 6-7oz leather. Trace the camera profile on cardboard 3/8 to 1/2 around the tracing to allow for your gusset and seam allowance. Cut the cardboard out and transfer to the leather (make mirror tracings to ensure you get good leather out on both sides. Then measure your camera width and again, add 3/8-1/2 on each side...use a string to measure along the outside of the camera tracing (the perimeter) to get the gusset length and add some fudge room (so if the camera is 3 inches "deep" you should have a rectangle about 4" across and probably 23" long. Dry assemble it inside out, line up your seams and stitch at 1/4" if you added 3/8, and 3/8 if you added a 1/2". Flip it right side out, trim the extra gusset and bob's yer uncle. Well, you need to do the flap, but you get the picture.

I'm not so sure. It's an inside gusset...big rectangle laid flat, good side up. Attach the hardware feet to the base piece then top-stitch it in place on the flat bed, fold the rectangle up inside out at stitch the gusset, then turn it right side out.

Hey all, I made a donation last week but haven't seen anything happen. Just a poke to see if it went through?

Got 'er, thanks all. You guys truly are wizards...

Thanks Bob..did all that as best I could shortly after I unseated it. Had a similar problem with my Boss once upon a time, figured the mechanism was similar. Took the pressure knob right out and had a closer look at it, was expecting the spring to come shooting out but it's just a pre-load. Reseated the spring and pressure knob, gave the lifter pedal a push ALL the way down and something unstuck and the presser foot went back where it was supposed to be....wish I knew what was going on so I could deal with it if it happens again? Seems like it's in the lifter assembly? Maybe the cable got bound up or something...

I think I did something stupid and backed off the presser foot tension a little much. Although I was able to screw the tension cylinder back in, and it seemed to work well enough...tonight after making some minor adjustments on the pressure dial again something has happened and the outer presser foot no longer makes contact with the feed dog...it's about 1/8th high. Both the inner and the outer appear to be level. So right before this happened, I stopped a line of stitch and stepped on the foot lift pedal. Good enough, but the foot wouldn't come back down. I juggled it back and forth and when it descended finally it came to rest at it's current height and won't drop. I've sent an email to Ron and the folks at Raphael for support, but we're like ships that cross in the night...I'm only available to troubleshoot at night. Can anyone assist?

Goretex is overkill. I'd line the bag with nylon and be done with it.

A small rapid rivet should be fine for two layers of 4-5oz.

Dissassembled the unit and found some pretty significant scarring on the axle. Also looks like the race surface doesn't go all the way through the piece. Half of the race is rough steel and you can still see the grooves from the drilling process. Regardless, cleaned it out and greased it, reassembled and it's working like a charm. I'll still swap it for the new part when it arrives (thanks Ron) but at least, for now, I can work

I can't seem to get to your image...but on the subject of bags you can sew almost anything on a flat or cylinder machine, ideally using both for different functions. What you can't do is put it all together in any particular order. It's all about spacial dissassembly and reassembly, identifying which parts need to be sewn in which order so that the piece can be worked on the machine. There are limits tho...and I think you found one of them. From what I can dig up via a google image search I'd do a variation of that bag in three main pieces...two sides and a bottom. I'd join the two sides with lap joints or french seams and then I'd turn the bag over and sew the bottom on inside-out with a welt.

Top notch, Ron. Thank you!

I got some instructions from the dealer on dissassembling the reducer assembly to clean and grease the axle, which will also permit inspection. I was told there's no bearing in the unit, therefore I believe there's something in there inhibiting a clean rotation...a metal shaving or an imperfection. I'll report back on what I find...thanks all!

Thanks gents. Wiz, I see no obvious way to disassemble the reducer unless there is a screw inside accessible from the bolt hole where the brass fitting threads in on the opposite side of the pulley. Greystone, I have faith in the dealer. Its frustrating for me that I've had this unit almost a week and haven't been able to use it, when it should be humming away paying for itself. I'm sure we'll get it sorted but a piece of idle equipment is dollars slipping away. Hopefully they can send me the lower part of the assembly to swap out so I don't have to mess with alignment.

You're a lifesaver Gregg, thanks!

This is a brand new machine. I took delivery on Wednesday of last week. The first attempt to stitch resulted in a lockup and spinning motor belt...I chalked it up to an assembly error and re/re'd the flywheel and belt. After this it stitched ok, but I did note the action was very stiff and the flywheel was difficult to move. Since this is a new machine I had nothing to compare it to...but I now suspect this isn't normal. Today I recieved some missing parts that were required to progress my work, and after installing these I was working happily when my machine stopped and the v-belt from the servo motor to the speed reducer wheel appeared to slip again. This time, I decided to troubleshoot the problem by removing both belts and checking the rotation of all the pulleys independently to identify where the problem was coming from...this allowed me to move the machine flywheel easily by hand, and the motor pulley. The speed reducer however is very diffucult to move by hand and appears to be seizing. After several revolutions I was able to loosen it...so I reassembled the belts and tried running the machine (un-threaded). Although it turns, there is a godawful screech coming from the speed reducer and there is obvious friction (handwheel is very difficult to turn by hand). I have ceased using the machine ( ) for fear that I will burn out the motor, my eardrums, my welcome, or all of the above. I have contacted the vendor (Techsew) but I tend to get responses during the day and I'm looking for any insight while I wait for support. Can anyone point me at next steps? Is the speed reducer just plain bad? My gut tells me theres a bad bearing or something inside. I would have thought a unit like this would have a grease zerk or something, but it doesn't even appear to be field serviceable. For reference, this is the reducer on the T5100: