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STERLING

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Posts posted by STERLING

  2. Posted · Report reply

    FWIW from the old grump; cdf has it right. Off duty carry and/or permitted CCW carriers must remember that you aren't going to get into a protracted knock down shoot-um-up gunfight --- unless you are a damned fool. That shooter is there to get you out of a deadly situation in which there is no other way out. And remember, 21 feet from you is not a long distance. A man good with a toad sticker, and intent on doing you harm can get that thing between your ribs usually before you can react and complete your draw. JMHO. Mike

    hell i agree with all ,really become personall preference ,have carried both out side and inside ,under the arm and so on ,but really it is the costumer or your comfort carry zone ,

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Philips Engraving has shipped mine a few days ago, while I still haven't received it, the process up to this point was VERY pleasant.

    I dealt with "Alex" via email during the design process where I provided a very crude description of what I was looking for and she quickly sent me a .PDF with the proposed design.(I found out later Alex is female, when my wife called in our CC details not that it matters, I had just made an assumption) There were a couple of changes I asked to have made once I got a visual of it, they never batted an eye, made the changes and just as quickly sent me a new .PDF and it was BANG ON.

    I can't see the finished product being a disappointment (I will follow up) and their customer service to this point is second to none.

    Here is another link with some other reviews, which was a huge help in my decision. Phillips Review

    Hope this helps,

    Kevin

    perfect this is exactly what i wanted ,

    Philips Engraving has shipped mine a few days ago, while I still haven't received it, the process up to this point was VERY pleasant.

    I dealt with "Alex" via email during the design process where I provided a very crude description of what I was looking for and she quickly sent me a .PDF with the proposed design.(I found out later Alex is female, when my wife called in our CC details not that it matters, I had just made an assumption) There were a couple of changes I asked to have made once I got a visual of it, they never batted an eye, made the changes and just as quickly sent me a new .PDF and it was BANG ON.

    I can't see the finished product being a disappointment (I will follow up) and their customer service to this point is second to none.

    Here is another link with some other reviews, which was a huge help in my decision. Phillips Review

    Hope this helps,

    Kevin

    perfect this is exactly what i was looking for thank you ,Ira

  6. Posted · Report reply

    In the next 30 days I will need 3 belts sewn. Single line of stitching all the way around for 2 and double line for the gun belt (Maybe). All will be 1 1/2" wide in the 65" length. 2 will be 8/9 lined with 3/4 and one will be a gun belt with two pieces of 8/9. All will be Hermann Oaks B grade leather.

    Belts well be sent glued, dyed and ready to sew. I'd like to find someone in the Denver area if possible but will ship them if needed. If you are interested let me know what you would charge per belt.

    Send me a PM or email me at m_lapaglia at msn dot com.

    Thank you.

    Michael

    hey micheal i can do by hand not machine,

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Again, FWIW; Regular mineral spirits (paint thinner) isn't recommended. It has a bunch more junk in it that does strange things to Fiebing's dyes and leather. Denatured alcohol can be had wherever you get paint thinner. Mike

    ooook thanks AGAIN must not have caught it the first time

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I use a solvent to prep before dye. I used to use the feibings de-glazer, which is basically acetone, and keytones with a little methanol added for flavor. Pretty nasty stuff. You can use the dye thinner as a prep solution also. Also if there is a auto body supply house near you you can use body solvent.

    But with any of these, remember PPE is the most important.

    hey i have another ? surface prep is this what you are talking about....

  11. Posted · Report reply

    The old grumpy guy here: I dye my holsters prior to construction, that way there is no problem (that I have encountered) with wet molding doing things to the dye job. After dying, All parts sit for a day to ensure total drying, but I live in generally warm, low humidity area, humid and/or cooler climates may take more time. For Fiebing's dyes (Pro Oil or Leather Dye) use denatured alcohol. Mike

    so you do all die before you mold and it doesnt enterfer with molding ,i have yet to try it that way ,was not sure if the leather would absorb water or not ,i will try that next time ,thank you

    I use a solvent to prep before dye. I used to use the feibings de-glazer, which is basically acetone, and keytones with a little methanol added for flavor. Pretty nasty stuff. You can use the dye thinner as a prep solution also. Also if there is a auto body supply house near you you can use body solvent.

    But with any of these, remember PPE is the most important.

    i wondered if i could use regular thinner or not i do body work ,for a liveing ,didnt know i i could use it or not ,cool thanks for the info.

  12. Posted · Edited by STERLING · Report reply

    What do you all recomend for preping leather after molding for a better coler app? I use fiebings die,normally don't have this problem but ahave noticed it more so when i do more hand molding . and what to use to lighten this type of die also ,,thanks

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