TerryJ

Ok, I’m planning on getting a machine in the near future, and have a few questions about sewing up holsters. Maybe the Cowboy Outlaw or the 3200/3500. Leaning towards the Outlaw though now because of heavier thread size capabilities . Right now, the way I make them is to wet mold them, glue along the general lines of the gun, THEN hand sew along the general lines of the gun. Ive never sewed before, so have no experience.Will this method of having the molded shape make it hard to get right next to the guns lines that are molded into shape? I’ll be limited by the walking foot as far as how close I can get to the shape, right? It’s not like I could lift the walking feet high enough to clear, say, the trigger guard if I needed to get even closer than normal then drop it back down, right? ( don’t know if I explained that right, but it’s something I was wondering about) Or do the majority of people lay out the stitch lines first, sew, THEN mold it? sorry for the noob questions, but I figured I’m not the first one to ask them! Thanks...

Thanks for the information. The holster looked well made and it surprised me when the other guy said that. I’ll do some more research about them. I plan to fasten some leather and need to find out about length of the stem and what not . thanks again!

Sorry for the dumb question, but I’m not well versed in hardware, and just got a dual clip holster that has these holding the clips on. When I inquired about dual cap rivets to an “ expert” he insinuated that they shouldn’t be used like that on a holster, because they’re weak. If true, is there a stronger type for holster use? Is this just a dual cap with one side flattened? Pics are of front and back of the rivet. One side is domed, the other flat. thanks

Yeah, I saw the shark at Springfield. I just didn't want to drop over $100 for it , as I'm not that good yet.... of course, I could get it for a future date when my skills are better! thanks for the replies

Pretty strange question here, but here it is. i bought an all shark IWB holster from a semi well known holster maker some years back. I never did like the way it fit, and after a few attempts to sell it, it just landed in a drawer. Ive since started to make holsters for myself, and am kind of happy with my work. Can I take this shark holster, and open it up by cutting away the seams, and somehow peel off the glued on shark trim, or is it near impossible? I had thought to use it for some trim pieces on my home made holsters... Thanks for any advice

Thanks again for the help and tips. This seems like a trial and error hobby, emphasis on the error, for me, but it's fun so far. Terry

Thanks Texback,Snubb, and Camano, for your help. I know this was a basic question, but I'm new at this,and want to TRY to do things right. I understand that I'll have to make some mistakes with this hobby before I get good, but I'd like to minimize my mistakes, if possible. Got it oiled up now, and will mess with it more tomorrow afternoon. Another question.... I bought some Aussie leather conditioner... Will that be applied afterwards, as a final finish? Or later, as a "touch up" to keep the leather supple? Or not really at all? Sorry for the dumb questions, but hey, at least I'll gie the people who don't respond something to laugh about...

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I've wet molded some leather for a holster. I let the leather dry, and I've now dyed it. The guy at Tandy told me to condition the leather AFTER I apply my Resolene, because the alcohol dye really dries the leather. It seemed pretty dry after the wet molding, if you ask me. It just seems that if I seal it with the Resolene first, how will conditioner "soak through"? Is this the proper procedure?