BigGriff
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Posts posted by BigGriff
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Just like the title says. If you have a sewing machine and live in the greater Atlanta area then I could possibly use your help on a motorcycle seat I'm working on for my buddy. This is an easy job, but I do not want to hand sew it.
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Nice!!! Thanks a bunch.
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I've done the lid trick, but lids don't have that double curve like your wallet pockets. Vector program seems to be the key. Thank you much.
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I've always wondered how people do that curve in the card pocket. Care to share?
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You're definitely improving. This is the best one I've seen you make thus far. I'm too new to offer advice, but good work.
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I would like to see the valet trays if you care to share.
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I wouldn't be surprised if the handling fee acted to offset the higher returns from buyers of small quantities. End-purchasers are more finnicky than, say, a store that buys a stack of hides at a time.
-JV474
That should be a restocking fee.
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I think Horween is new to the direct-to-consumer business and it shows. They are used to dealing in bulk orders, which is easier for them allows them to negotiate separately for each customer. They didn't set up a channel, thetanneryrow.com, specifically for small orders to shut people up. I think they did it because they're hasn't really been an easy way to buy Horweeen ever, demand for their leather has to be up and they are a business and they want to make money. Direct-to-consumer is definitely a higher margin business albeit smaller proportionately. They see the opportunity, but are failing to execute operationally and fully capitalize. That's my opinion.
I would love to be in charge of thetanneryrow.com business. I think this is a growth opportunity for Horween if it was done correctly.
Matt makes a good point about capacity. I find it unlikely, but it's a possibility. I honestly think they don't know what they are doing in the online world and do not have the resources to devote to it.
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a $30 "handling fee" for doing their flippin JOB??? yeah, i don't care for those kind of games myself either.
tell me more about this "waterhouse" place you speak of...
was considered ordering from these people, but not if they play the "handling fee" and excessive shipping cost games. i don't play those and i steer far clear of those that do.
I guess they know they have a good thing, I mean it's hard to beat Horween leather, but I still think it's bad business practice myself.
Waterhouse is actually a vendor of mine at my job. I work in the prosthetics and orthotics industry and we buy a lot of leather. Peter is a stand-up guy. i highly recommend them if they have something you like.
I also buy from Springfield often. I call them sometimes. They take my order over the phone. Check on things for me when I have questions. Will cut most leathers to whatever size I want. NEVER charged me a handling fee.
Maverick has the Horween leather too. I may give them a look.
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Placed an order today for the English Tan Dublin in 4.5/5 oz. Here are the details:
$13+/foot. Goes down to $9.99 if you order 100 feet or more.
$30 Handling fee. Personally I hate these "fees". You're going to charge me because you had to put your hands on the leather to sell it to me.
~$20 shipping for one side. Didn't know exact price, but still seems high. Waterhouse offers fee shipping on orders of $99.
On a 20 sq ft side, my total will be ~$310!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Said it will be two weeks. At that time, I will get a notification that my order is ready. Once I confirm, I will be charged and it will ship. Might cancel to be honest. Don't know if it is worth it. Going to take a day or two to mull it over.
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Is this from personal experience? i emailed springfield leather and they say it comes from south america.
I may order both hides and decide from there.
From Springfield, I meant the Hermann Oak, which I have tried. I have a side of the Waterhouse upstairs.
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I've used 1.25 - 1.75 oz goat and also 2.5oz calf. The goat is stiffer and probably much more wear resistant but it can have a grainier texture than cow, but not nearly what you get with pig. I have some 1.75 oz calf that will be delivered any day now and if it looks as nice as I think it will, I'll probably stop using goat.
The first picture is 1.75oz goat and the second is 2.5oz calf.
Can I ask where you are getting the calf?
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Ray,
If you decide to piece it out, I would definitely make the trip down. I'm from Smiths Station, AL and could make a trip down to see the parents and look at what you have. Unfortunately, I don't have the $10K to buy the whole lot. Hopefully, you will sell it complete, but if something changes I'll keep eye on this thread.
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The 2/3 from Springfield is pretty stiff. It's just Hermann Oak split down. The 2/3 Kip from Waterhouse has a softer temper.
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Well either he's lying or he's exceptionally good, as the description on the minimalist wallet site says it's handmade from a single piece. Wouldn't the divide between the two colours be as simple as using a guard of some sort to make a neat line between the two? When I've watched people dying leather they normally use like a sponge thing on a stick. If the sponge is good and square I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to get a neat divide.
Then again I've never dyed leather so I could just be talking through my arse.
Ok, since he says he's definitely using one piece, then he is definitely using some type of guard/cover to make sure it stays where he wants.
You can make this. Easy. Practice on paper products. Take your time on leather. Use the tiger thread you mentioned. Buy one 2-prong stitching chisel. Rubber cement to hold your edges while stitching. Sandpaper for your edges. I would worry about dying until you can make one in natural. Use 2-3 oz veg tan. I know you're in the UK, so I don't know suppliers. Give it a go, and keep us updated.
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BigGriff, thanks for the explanation of the pall wallet's construction. I can see clearly how it was done now. I really love the two-tone effect, but it amazes me how he managed to make such neat holes going through four layers of leather.
When I'm constructing my wallets I feel as though I'm treating them really roughly; pulling and folding and prodding holes so much that when I've finished they look like they've been in use for three years already. But when you look at the pall wallet, it looks like it hasn't even been touched by human hands. How does he do that?
Just noticed the two-tone effect. I'm guessing it's two pieces of leather now, or they are really careful when dying. As for the the construction, I could see on the Pall website that they use templates. You could do the same out of a $2 piece of poster board. As for the stitching, it looks machine stitched to me.
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The Pall wallet you posted is pretty easy. I can see it. Imagine 4 squares - 2 squares on the left and two on the right. Here's the best I can do on this website.
1
23
4
1 & 2 are connect at the top and bottom. 2 & 3 are connected at the side. 3 & 4 are connected bottom and top. Piece 4 also has the snaps you need to close the wallet.
Fold 1 over 2, then 4 over 3, then fold 2 & 3 together. You could definitely make this. Hell, I might give it a go.
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I think you can do this. May take a little more practice. Like I mentioned in one of your other threads, I made my own minimalist wallet and it definitely looks homemade. I learned a lot though, took notes, and will do better on the next one. The key for me is that while I am making something, I am enjoying this hobby. If it was causing me too much stress, I would stop. If it has gotten to that level for you, I would suggest you do the same.
I will say that I think you can do this. The journey is half the fun.
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As I too am very interested in minimalist wallets, I will be very interested in what you come up with. I am currently using a front pocket wallet that I made out of 4 layers of 2/3 Hermann Oak I got from springfield. It's pretty thin, but it could be thinner. I could've done it with 2 layers. I really like the Ainste wallets in the review. Maybe I will try something like that.
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Hoping to make a wallet for my Father-in-law and I really think he would like this braided edge. Does anyone know what kind of braid it is? Where I can learn to do it?
I know the type of braid has probably been covered, but since I do not know what it is called I do not know what to search for.
A preemptive thanks for your help.
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There are tabs in back of the card slot pieces. Slide the diamond shaped piece end into the opening of the card section and hook the tab into the slot. Do it on both sides. The rectangle id the liner to the back. Sew or lace around the perimiter to hold it all togeather.
Gotcha. Now what's the best way to finish? Make the exterior a little big, skive and fold over or make the exterior piece the same size and try to burnish? Or does it matter? I starting to think skive and fold the edges may be best.
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I bought this interior with hopes of learning enough to eventually use it, but I have to be honest that I am still not sure what to do with it. I have a piece of burgundy chromexcel that I would like to use as the exterior. The way I look at it is I have two options, but I am not sure which is correct.
Either way, I assume I would glue the chromexcel to the bigger piece of the CF pieces, but I am not sure if I am supposed to leave some extra space on the chromexcel, skive the edges and fold over before I sew OR would I cut the chromexcel to size and burnish the edge?
I have heard that chromexcel does not burnish that well. Any help is appreciated.
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Probably embossed cow. Maybe Gator.
Lined Wallet Prototype
in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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i think fabric tape could help with the first problem.