hazymat

Hi Cheryl The problem is that I can't use Bobby's method because I can't use dye on the leather. It is an oil tanned hide therefore dyes don't properly impregnate the edges as well as it would with veg tanned. That's why I need to use Edge Kote which is a product that sits on top of the edge. Problem is that I do really need to add a layer on top of the Edge Kote. Unfortunately I wasn't given the Edge Kote in the original bottle and I can't find instructions online! As rosiart rightly mentioned, the issue is that I need an alternative to NeatLac that I can pick up in a UK store. Can anyone enlighten me as to what NeatLac is, so I can hunt down an alternative? Ie what it is primarily used for? What section of a hardware store I might find it in?

Hi all Having read other posts about Edge Kote on this forum, I know others' views on it range from "brilliant" to "I would never use it"... but unfortunately I can't use Bob Park's excellent method (which uses edge dye rather than Edge Kote) because I'm working with an oil tanned hide at the moment. Here's what I'm doing: - Wet edge then bevel - Soap and burnish the wet edge to round it off. It doesn't gloss-up, but does harden slightly - Apply 1 or 2 coats of Edge Kote - ?? Final step ?? This post recommends Neat Lac OR a water based polyurethane finish for wood. This post recommends a few things including mixing e.g. resolene with Edge Kote, but I'd rather keep it simple My question: if I use a water-based wood finish (varnish) such as Ronseal (UK), will this harden and crack? I also found a product at my local hardware shop called "Protective decorative varnish - dead flat finish". It's a "clear acrylic varnish with a durable shine free finish that protects decorative surfaces against finger marks, stains, and scuffing". Says it works with wallpaper, plaster, fabric, interior wood. Does the above sound like a good thing to put on top of Edge Kote? Of course, I can test now - but I need to know it will also stand the test of time... Thanks!

My turn to **BUMP** The OP never really had an answer to their question. My thoughts on the matter are that you won't get a finish like that with oil tanned leather, but I would still like to know what people suggest for finishing oil tanned leathers? I am using a great oil tanned leather. I just love how it feels. But I'd love to know how to finish the leather, give it a little sheen or buff. And something to resist finger marks.

I can't vouch for whether the leather would stretch by itself over time, and if your oil tanned leather is pre dyed then I can't vouch for the fact that wet forming it won't discolour the leather. In fact if you completely saturate the leather it will lose its colour. On the other hand, depending on the cut and exact type of tanning, it's pretty likely that by applying water, you can shape the leather. It won't hold its new shape as rigidly as veg tanned leather would - but then it didn't prior to wetting it anyway...

I must say I had thought it was a veg-tanned leather when I saw it in the factory! Thanks for pointing that out to me, it has been the source of much confusion as to why I couldn't get lovely edges. I may simply bevel, slick with soap, and apply edge kote. Or perhaps gum trag. I'm doing an experiment now. Thanks again.

I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...) Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives. Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_soap It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)...

Hello Any recommendations for someone to produce a makers mark from photoshop drawings? e.g. out of steel? UK recommendations please. Many thanks Mat

Although I love Bob Park's guide "Finishing Edges" on this forum, I wonder how useful a "one-size-fits-all" approach is. (I'm not suggesting people actually use a "one-size-fits-all" approach, but I've noticed some posts on here where people say things like "the edge dye just doesn't stay on", or "the edge doesn't go shiny" and perhaps it's down to the type of leather or tanning process). For example, I recently started work on a pre-dyed leather from Tandy called the "Austin Double Shoulder". Although it's an 8oz leather and keeps its shape well, it is slightly less rigid than a bog-standard tooling leather. Apart from the fact it bends down the edge when you try to burnish with a wheel (and slightly crumples if you apply too much pressure when burnishing using canvas by hand), it just doesn't shine up as nicely, and the fibres don't become as tightly bound. Check out this comparison of Austin Double Shoulder and traditional tooling leather (same thickness), after bevel and burnish: As I'm new to this, does anyone have advice on how to vary the process to get nice looking edges? Should I just bevel, burnish as best I can, then apply gum trag and leave it there?

Thanks yet again to this forum, you are all so helpful. After some further research I found that a common use for this kind of thing is bookbinding. Here's a place in the UK that sells bookbinding screws: http://www.joyce-pm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=248&zenid=dlr58a3c0co92rafdddgvvghu3 Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

Not sure if anyone has anything to add to this topic but I am also trying to find a suitable replacement for NeatLac here in the UK. I have never used it before, in fact I'm very new to edge finishing in general but have read Bob Park's guide to finishing edges and want to get it right first time. i.e. using it as the last step in the process, after burnishing, saddle soaping, dyeing, and further burnishing. I went to JT Batchelor in London who recommended using Edge Kote after simply burnishing and applying beeswax. I had tried this but really unhappy with the result as the edge kote simply rubbed off. (I think this was due to applying beeswax beforehand!)

I need to rivet through 5 layers of 8oz cowhide. The total thickness is around 16mm. The rivet needs to look nice from both sides, therefore I was hoping to use a tubular rivet with domed ends. Unfortunately it seems practically impossible to source rivets of this length. Add to that I need the head to be relatively small in diameter (10mm or preferably under), I really can't find any such rivet online or in a hardware store. Even if I did find a rivet to suit, would it be a nightmare to actually hammer the thing without it buckling? I don't know. The only alternative I can think of is to use some kind of decorative nut and bolt, but that seems way too chunky for what I need. Has anyone come across this problem before?

I got the stuff out on my last visit to Tandy UK and yes, it's the stuff of dreams. It feels more like silk than leather. I do think it would be perfect for upholstery; high end car seats, fine headboards, etc. but would be wasted on those things! I'd love to work with the stuff. I agree that it seems a little less rigid therefore should be used for finer goods such as wallets, book covers, etc.

Hello You Americans are very lucky when it comes to finding a wide range of hardware manufacturers who sell their wares directly online and I ENVY you! Sadly, in the UK, however, I've had no such luck yet. Whilst Tandy does a really decent range of hardware for bags (I'm talking clasps, swivel clips, trigger snaps, dee rings), there are very few other places to get things. Minimum order with Tandy for D rings the size I want is £16, and a couple of brass trigger snaps will set me back £10. Not to mention flap fasteners... all in all I could spend about £40 ($60) just on hardware for ONE bag! Any UK people out there know the best way to source bag hardware?

Thanks Art and TTCustom In order to sharpen just the tip of the diamond awl but leave the rest of the shaft nice and oval with no edge, can you recommend techniques for actually sharpening? I mean, which way do you rub the blade, what angle to hold it at, and how much to work it on e.g. an oil stone to get it initially sharp. Is the technique / action for stropping the same? Sorry, I am completely new to working with hand tools and want to ensure I do it properly! Art: I've googled "chrome compound" and asked around (even spoke to a chem graduate!) but still not sure what this stuff is. Does it have an alternative name? Just need to find a place to pick some up here in the UK. Is it the same effect as using honing oil? I have some of that lying around. Thanks

Lovely! I saw the most gorgeous bag (more of a brief case) of the design you describe whilst walking through a lovely part of London over the weekend. I had to stop and stare. It was made by Church's Shoes (have you heard of them?) A real old-fashioned high-end designer shoemaker. I tried to look the bag up online, alas their website is rubbish and doesn't have any bags on. I remember the edges were perfect, and the form of the piece was absolutely lovely, really simple and unfussy, but really desirable. Post photos of your progress, I'm interested to see!