hazymat

Hi Cheryl The problem is that I can't use Bobby's method because I can't use dye on the leather. It is an oil tanned hide therefore dyes don't properly impregnate the edges as well as it would with veg tanned. That's why I need to use Edge Kote which is a product that sits on top of the edge. Problem is that I do really need to add a layer on top of the Edge Kote. Unfortunately I wasn't given the Edge Kote in the original bottle and I can't find instructions online! As rosiart rightly mentioned, the issue is that I need an alternative to NeatLac that I can pick up in a UK store. Can anyone enlighten me as to what NeatLac is, so I can hunt down an alternative? Ie what it is primarily used for? What section of a hardware store I might find it in?

Hi all Having read other posts about Edge Kote on this forum, I know others' views on it range from "brilliant" to "I would never use it"... but unfortunately I can't use Bob Park's excellent method (which uses edge dye rather than Edge Kote) because I'm working with an oil tanned hide at the moment. Here's what I'm doing: - Wet edge then bevel - Soap and burnish the wet edge to round it off. It doesn't gloss-up, but does harden slightly - Apply 1 or 2 coats of Edge Kote - ?? Final step ?? This post recommends Neat Lac OR a water based polyurethane finish for wood. This post recommends a few things including mixing e.g. resolene with Edge Kote, but I'd rather keep it simple My question: if I use a water-based wood finish (varnish) such as Ronseal (UK), will this harden and crack? I also found a product at my local hardware shop called "Protective decorative varnish - dead flat finish". It's a "clear acrylic varnish with a durable shine free finish that protects decorative surfaces against finger marks, stains, and scuffing". Says it works with wallpaper, plaster, fabric, interior wood. Does the above sound like a good thing to put on top of Edge Kote? Of course, I can test now - but I need to know it will also stand the test of time... Thanks!

My turn to **BUMP** The OP never really had an answer to their question. My thoughts on the matter are that you won't get a finish like that with oil tanned leather, but I would still like to know what people suggest for finishing oil tanned leathers? I am using a great oil tanned leather. I just love how it feels. But I'd love to know how to finish the leather, give it a little sheen or buff. And something to resist finger marks.

I can't vouch for whether the leather would stretch by itself over time, and if your oil tanned leather is pre dyed then I can't vouch for the fact that wet forming it won't discolour the leather. In fact if you completely saturate the leather it will lose its colour. On the other hand, depending on the cut and exact type of tanning, it's pretty likely that by applying water, you can shape the leather. It won't hold its new shape as rigidly as veg tanned leather would - but then it didn't prior to wetting it anyway...

I must say I had thought it was a veg-tanned leather when I saw it in the factory! Thanks for pointing that out to me, it has been the source of much confusion as to why I couldn't get lovely edges. I may simply bevel, slick with soap, and apply edge kote. Or perhaps gum trag. I'm doing an experiment now. Thanks again.

I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...) Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives. Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_soap It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)...

Hello Any recommendations for someone to produce a makers mark from photoshop drawings? e.g. out of steel? UK recommendations please. Many thanks Mat

Although I love Bob Park's guide "Finishing Edges" on this forum, I wonder how useful a "one-size-fits-all" approach is. (I'm not suggesting people actually use a "one-size-fits-all" approach, but I've noticed some posts on here where people say things like "the edge dye just doesn't stay on", or "the edge doesn't go shiny" and perhaps it's down to the type of leather or tanning process). For example, I recently started work on a pre-dyed leather from Tandy called the "Austin Double Shoulder". Although it's an 8oz leather and keeps its shape well, it is slightly less rigid than a bog-standard tooling leather. Apart from the fact it bends down the edge when you try to burnish with a wheel (and slightly crumples if you apply too much pressure when burnishing using canvas by hand), it just doesn't shine up as nicely, and the fibres don't become as tightly bound. Check out this comparison of Austin Double Shoulder and traditional tooling leather (same thickness), after bevel and burnish: As I'm new to this, does anyone have advice on how to vary the process to get nice looking edges? Should I just bevel, burnish as best I can, then apply gum trag and leave it there?

Thanks yet again to this forum, you are all so helpful. After some further research I found that a common use for this kind of thing is bookbinding. Here's a place in the UK that sells bookbinding screws: http://www.joyce-pm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=97&products_id=248&zenid=dlr58a3c0co92rafdddgvvghu3 Problem with the above is that I only require small quantities therefore will be investigating the options you've all mentioned so far as well.

Not sure if anyone has anything to add to this topic but I am also trying to find a suitable replacement for NeatLac here in the UK. I have never used it before, in fact I'm very new to edge finishing in general but have read Bob Park's guide to finishing edges and want to get it right first time. i.e. using it as the last step in the process, after burnishing, saddle soaping, dyeing, and further burnishing. I went to JT Batchelor in London who recommended using Edge Kote after simply burnishing and applying beeswax. I had tried this but really unhappy with the result as the edge kote simply rubbed off. (I think this was due to applying beeswax beforehand!)

I need to rivet through 5 layers of 8oz cowhide. The total thickness is around 16mm. The rivet needs to look nice from both sides, therefore I was hoping to use a tubular rivet with domed ends. Unfortunately it seems practically impossible to source rivets of this length. Add to that I need the head to be relatively small in diameter (10mm or preferably under), I really can't find any such rivet online or in a hardware store. Even if I did find a rivet to suit, would it be a nightmare to actually hammer the thing without it buckling? I don't know. The only alternative I can think of is to use some kind of decorative nut and bolt, but that seems way too chunky for what I need. Has anyone come across this problem before?

I got the stuff out on my last visit to Tandy UK and yes, it's the stuff of dreams. It feels more like silk than leather. I do think it would be perfect for upholstery; high end car seats, fine headboards, etc. but would be wasted on those things! I'd love to work with the stuff. I agree that it seems a little less rigid therefore should be used for finer goods such as wallets, book covers, etc.

Hello You Americans are very lucky when it comes to finding a wide range of hardware manufacturers who sell their wares directly online and I ENVY you! Sadly, in the UK, however, I've had no such luck yet. Whilst Tandy does a really decent range of hardware for bags (I'm talking clasps, swivel clips, trigger snaps, dee rings), there are very few other places to get things. Minimum order with Tandy for D rings the size I want is £16, and a couple of brass trigger snaps will set me back £10. Not to mention flap fasteners... all in all I could spend about £40 ($60) just on hardware for ONE bag! Any UK people out there know the best way to source bag hardware?

Thanks Art and TTCustom In order to sharpen just the tip of the diamond awl but leave the rest of the shaft nice and oval with no edge, can you recommend techniques for actually sharpening? I mean, which way do you rub the blade, what angle to hold it at, and how much to work it on e.g. an oil stone to get it initially sharp. Is the technique / action for stropping the same? Sorry, I am completely new to working with hand tools and want to ensure I do it properly! Art: I've googled "chrome compound" and asked around (even spoke to a chem graduate!) but still not sure what this stuff is. Does it have an alternative name? Just need to find a place to pick some up here in the UK. Is it the same effect as using honing oil? I have some of that lying around. Thanks

Lovely! I saw the most gorgeous bag (more of a brief case) of the design you describe whilst walking through a lovely part of London over the weekend. I had to stop and stare. It was made by Church's Shoes (have you heard of them?) A real old-fashioned high-end designer shoemaker. I tried to look the bag up online, alas their website is rubbish and doesn't have any bags on. I remember the edges were perfect, and the form of the piece was absolutely lovely, really simple and unfussy, but really desirable. Post photos of your progress, I'm interested to see!

I've been loitering and pilfering advice on this forum for a good few days now so thought it might be time to introduce myself. My name is Mat, I am a freelance photographer from London, and I'm looking to get started in the amazing world of leather working. Although I took horse-riding lessons when I was younger, I am much more of the indoorsy type, I like tech, gadgets, urban / fashion-inspired design, and ingenious, minimal styles when it comes to leather. I'll be completely up-front and say that I'm far more interested in the overall form of a project rather than the decorative aspect of leatherworking and I must admit I don't like any kind of patterns or fussy coloured dying, and believe that debossing should be reserved for text or discreet logos only That said, this is only my personal aesthetic; I understand the wonderful tradition of decorative tooling, and can appreciate it in a detached way as an art form in itself. I guess the joy of leather working is that it encompasses so many different styles and backgrounds and preferences! So far I've bought a load of tools, cut up a load of high quality leather, but stopped short of actually beginning to make my first bag. I'm waiting for a delivery of beeswax, the Valerie Michael book, and something to sharpen my useless awl, before I get properly started! Hello!

Hey Whilst Troop's point about using 6/7 for the face and 4/5 for the gusset is probably sensible, I reckon you can get away with anything up to about 8oz for the gusset. DISCLAIMER: I have *zero* experience with this, I am literally new to leatherworking, and in fact I haven't even made my first project yet. Troop has made some gorgeous bags, I've made nothing so far. Then why am I so audacious to suggest the above? The reason is that I spent most of today staring at a piece of 8oz veg-tanned cowhide shoulder. I cut a prototype gusset piece to 4cm width, which is a narrow gusset for such rigid, thick leather. It will make a nice thin messenger bag. I wet-formed the leather and here is the result: On reflection I think 4cm width is too thin for a gusset piece in 8oz, but 5cm is just perfect for an 8oz leather wet-formed. Definitely at the upper limit of what's do-able though! (Also, as a side-note, I decided not to go with an all-in-one gusset piece for my design, instead opting for a three-piece gusset: side / bottom / side.) Comments welcome. Someone tell me I shouldn't jump in at the deep end with this bag I'm trying to make...

The only thing I need to sharpen (at least at this point in my journey in leather!) is my diamond awl blade. I bought a Tandy awl haft and separate blade. I know many on here swear by other blades, but I'd like to get this one sharp before I give up on it! I'm hoping to pick up an oil stone to get it half sharp in the first place, but for stropping such a small item, is it appropriate to just use a piece of scrap tooling leather (approx 9oz)? Stohlman says to rub the blade back and forward on the edge of the oil stone, then he says strop it. Should I use the same action to strop the diamond awl blade (i.e. back and forward on all 4 edges)?

I see! I've consumed quite a lot of information over the last 48 hours and I must have slightly mis-read the Stohlman. (I've another book on leatherworking on its way tomorrow!) Thanks for making it clear!

Thanks! Just bought it on Amazon...

Thanks for that. (The bag that was in my avatar was in fact not mine, it was something I was looking at on this forum last night by another user, I must have accidentally set it as my profile picture! I removed it now...) I'm using 8oz cowhide shoulder to make a rugged bag, however I want the bag to be quite thin (each gusset would be 4cm wide, and would have a curved cross section to pull the compartment size in to more like 3cm or less). I was thinking of wet forming the cross section of the gusset as it's quite thick leather and otherwise it might not stay with the curved cross section. I've never done anything like this before so I may be way off! I initially thought each gusset would have to be in 3 pieces (two sides and a bottom) due to the fact that I'd never get 8oz thickness leather around a bend. (Of course, the leather goes around the bend fine, but not when the gusset is also curved lengthways.) Am I mad for trying to make this design from such thick leather? Hope the above makes sense. I'm a complete novice when it comes to all aspects of leather, let alone sewing - I'm learning as I go.

Hi I'm sure this is a common problem, but I'm trying to construct corners at the bottom of a bag that look like this: I prototyped the corner using much thinner leather that I will use for the bag, to look like this: But it's quite messy. Then I cut rectangles out of the side and bottom piece like this: Which gives the following look: If you imagine adding the front and back pieces of the bag to the above photo, you would then stitch through three layers on each side at the very corners. Problem is, I think this looks quite messy still. I really want the bottom corners to look like this (check out the second image which shows side view): http://www.saddlebackleather.com/Classic-Briefcase-Thin?sc=8&category=83 However I'm not sure the leather I am using will bend quite as easily as the one shown on Saddleback's site. I'm finding it pretty hard to visualise. Is there a foolproof way of getting nice corners? Thanks!

A few more questions about stitching: The Stohlman book on stitching mentions you should always pull two arms-lengths of thread, regardless of the size of the project. Then if you run out, follow instructions for starting a new thread in the middle of a stitching line. He says "you won't waste any thread", but then I don't think he goes on to say why you won't waste thread! It does seem a bit silly to me. Can anyone explain his rationale? I'm not sure if my thread is waxed or unwaxed. How can I tell? The label just says "Barbour: Flax 100% Lin, 3 cord". Stohlman says that for making bags, it's best to use 4 cord, and a number 7 overstitch wheel. I have 3 cord and a number 5 wheel (smaller cord, bigger distance between holes). I'll be cross-stitching everything. I'm making a messenger bag. Do you think I can use 3 cord and number 5 overstitcher? I like how it *looks* but will there be an effect on how well it wears over time? I'm confused about the different uses for beeswax. Can I basically buy a beeswax block and use it on the thread *and* rub it on the awl? Should I jab the awl into it? Is this the right kind of stuff: http://www.amazon.co...x/dp/B004YSXCEU I'm very new to it all, but I want to get it right first time. Thanks!

Hello Thanks so much, TexasJack, ChuckBurrows, Ramrod, and everyone else, for the useful comments. It was probably a bit silly as my first ever project to attempt to stitch through suede! I thought that because the material would be softer, it might be easier... Since then, I made a stitching pony (see below), bought some more awl blades (I'd buckled my first too many times!) and tried awling through some cowhide shoulder, and the results are far better! For one thing, the leather takes impressions which means the stitching groover and overstitcher actually *worked*, giving the stitching line a really nice consistency. Secondly it turns out I was awling completely incorrectly. I had been punching horizontal holes instead of diagonal ones. Error! Here's my new pony:

Hello Thanks all (HAH) for the really useful advice and comments. I'm writing on an iPhone right now but plan to respond properly tomorrow. I spent all evening building a stitching pony after these comments, can't wait to show photos! Cheers Mat