ChimeraKennels

Ken, I don't have a dog in this fight, but man...you are not helping. Being disrespectful and rude doesn't make the machines work better or the people that have the machines any happier. Sailrite also states they don't offer servo motors as they are disappointed with their performance and they only offer clutch or MC-SCR motors as a result. Wizcraft and Busted both have done nothing but offer their time and help to me when I needed help...and I for one appreciate it. When I get ready to purchase a Cowboy machine some day, I will either get a low rpm clutch motor and put a speed reducer on it OR better yet ask if I can get an SCR motor. Yes, a clutch motor runs the entire time it is "on" even when it isn't being used...and uses energy as a result...but realistically, I don't think that is costing big buck for people that only use the machines a few hours a week.

I don't know if you misunderstood me or not. When I stated "rookie here," I was referring to me...not you. Eric, what ever you are doing, I would say you are doing it right. I went and looked at your work, and it looks exceptional. Keep up the good work.

For my Pfaff 145, does it matter which twist thread I use? Also, can I use 138 on both the top and in the bobbin? I don't see much benefit (other than cosmetic) in terms of strength to use a larger thread on top if you are still using a smaller thread on the bottom side to lockstitch it down with.

Two more things, I am sure I will never run this machine over its max RPMs as I prefer good control, but I would like to know what is... 1. What is the max stitch RPM for this machine (Pfaff 145-H4-6/1C) 2. What is the max hp rating this machine can handle? This information would be beneficial should I end up needing a new motor some day.

I understand the clutch motors "run full speed" and that servo motors are "less sensitive and offer good low speed control" although the later some times has less power than an equal strength clutch motor when being used at low speed. So, here is my question. On my "new to me" Pfaff, it came with a 1/3rd hp clutch motor...but I can run it slow without any problem. That motor is HEAVY despite it low hp rating...and even though it is "on" all the time when I hit the switch, it really is fairly quiet in my opinion. The manufacturer is "Every Ready" and the model is a "Master Clutch." I can run this clutch motor as slow as I want. From what I read clutch motors are typically hard to control, so I am curious, was this some unique model or did I just get lucky? Why are new clutch motors not like this? I imagine it is the original motor. I am replacing the wiring for safety reasons to update it to a three prong with a ground, but didn't choose to purchase a new motor since this one seems able to meet my needs. If I have problems going through thick stuff than I may upgrade to a stronger motor...but my question is...would a 1/2 hp servo be any stronger than a 1/3 hp clutch? I noticed that some of the clutch motors out there are made for "slow stitching" with a top RPM around 1750. Would such a motor with a small pulley not offer more penetrating power than a servo motor?

Just a note...but when we drive our vehicles and push the accelerator, a vehicle doesn't instantly go 65 mph. It works up to that speed. Very few of us actually push the peddle the exact distance downward to go our desired speed. Most of us push the peddle to get going and adjust our peddle pressure as needed to go faster or go slower...The tires don't always match the throttle pressure and there is a delay to respond to such pressure. I don't see the delay as a problem as long as the transition is smooth (not overly sensitive) in terms of safety (or smooth in terms of sewing machines). Is the hesitation a reduction in acceleration during transition (a reduction or sensitivity) or just a delayed time response? I compare sewing leather to driving on ice. You can't afford to puncture a hole where you don't want one since you can't remove an accidental hole. The perfect ice driving vehicle (leather stitcher) wouldn't take off fast like the perfect dragster (factory upholstery machine). Two different things. One ideal is very fast and very responsive while the other ideal is delayed and not sensitive and much less responsive. The latter may still be able to go fast, but it give you time to accommodate the acceleration to prepare for it...so you don't have an accident. Anyway, just the thoughts of a rookie here.

OK...here are a few pictures now that it is clean. Here are my questions. This first photo, you see me holding something above the machine. My guess is it is a spool holder...that you fold it down, slide the spool on, and then fold it back up. I haven't seen one like this, but that would make sense to me, especially for small spools. But of course I have a tree for holding larger spools on the desk itself. Am I correct about this item, or is it an additional line guide of some type? Next...what is this thing in this next picture below? I have no idea... Next, the spring that applies the downward pressure is the only item I wonder about being "out of spec" or possibly replaced. I really don't know if it is, but man...it really pushes down pretty hard even when the foot tension dial at the top is screwed out all the way. Could someone have put too large a spring in this machine, or are they supposed to push down really hard? It has no problems sewing or feeding...so, excuse me if I am just mistaken. Finally, one will also notice that this machine doesn't have the cross bar going across the top of the foot tension adjustment over to the back of the head as some of the 145's and 545's do. I have noticed some do, and some don't. Can someone tell me what that is about? Thank you.

Correction on the model...the last two digits are not "10" but "1C"...making it Pfaff 145-H4-6/1C Then benieth that it says "LMNP" (but I don't know what that is. The serial number is below the flatbed...right in the front. Mogwild. No plastic. After reading up a bit, I see it is "ok" according to many to use break cleaner, so I just cleaned it up. Lubed it, and getting ready to put it on the table here soon to give her a go. Spoke to Bob this morning and ordered a new table top for the table. The old table was rough...although the machine is good.

How about putting in a "stop" underneath the peddle to prevent overtravel...like they do on some target shooting triggers?

Clarification...When I said I use CLP, I was referring to my firearms. I have no idea if the oil in it is compatible to sewing machines...and meant for that to be a question. Sorry if I implied otherwise.

Doing a bit of research, apparently break cleaner is ok for these machines? Just re-oil when finished?

Have you ever used "Brake free CLP" (Cleaner, lubricant, and preservative) for guns? Gun blast is basically brake cleaner as far as I know and I use it on my firearms, but I also use CLP. The CLP is a cleaner and lubricant in one. I would think brake cleaner to get stuff out, a quick spray of CLP to everywhere would give a general all around lube, and then drops of oil in key places to finish it off. Does anywhere actually need "grease?"

I will be contacting you for some supplies.

I saw it mentioned that you could attach and extended pull bar on the motor to make it more controllable/less sensitive...but in doing so it put too much weight on the motor's switch... Well, There is more than one way to skin a cat. Most of the machines I have seen have the pulley attached to the peddle at the back of the peddle...the area that travels the furthest with each tiny change of foot angle. Why not move the attachment on the foot peddle closer to the pivot/fulcrum point? This way, it wouldn't travel as fast as you change your foot angle, and doing so would give you more control without adding weight on the motor's switch. Anyway, just an idea.

First let me say, I still plan on getting the Cowboy 3500 or 4500 in the future...but I came across a machine today that I just couldn't let pass me by. Getting this machine will probably put me back on the Cowboy until next summer most likely (I am a teacher and have summers off)...but I am comfortable with that. I found local add on craigslist for a Pfaff 145-4H-6/10 machine that was in "good condition" and original owner. I called em up...spoke to the owner's daughter, as the man that owns the machine is deaf and unable to talk on the phone. He was in his seventies and was retired from a hobby-reuphulstery business while also working for the post office. . I go to visit...and the machine is VERY tight (in terms of not having any wobble in the feet or needle), sews smooth with a nice stitch, and the price was very reasonable. It was actually a pleasure to meet this man and his daughter. His wife died about 7 years ago and he was now going to be moving out west to Seattle, Washington to live with his daughter...and couldn't take the machine with him. He man was having a hard time letting the machine go, but knew it was necessary as his daughter didn't have room for it at her home. They were very nice people and I spent some time talking to them...in fact the daughter ended up getting teary eyed & requested that they take a few pictures of me and her father as it has been part of his life since 1965. He still had the original wooden box and padding cover that came with the machine. It really looked like the machine has been used rather lightly compared to others I have seen...as it still had nearly of its original paint on the flatbed still...and I can tell it has not been repainted. Now, I have no plans on doing the thick leather collars with this machine...just the nylon and maybe some thin leather...but before I do, I want to give the machine a good "cleaning." Even though everything was very tight and ran smooth as butter...and well like..."a sewing machine"...if you looked down into the unit, it is a bit greasy/oily...and has some lint in there. There are two things on the machine that I don't know what are...some sort of attachment. I will photograph those once I get the machine cleaned. I understand you don't want to clean these things with just any solvent (I would have thought break or gun cleaner would have been fine since both evaporate leaving clean metal), but I will have our local sewing machine go through this machine for me to clean it all out and relube (grease & oil) and give it the service it needs, as I wouldn't want to overlook something. Everything is so tight and it sewed so well though I don't suspect it would need any thing else. Just thought I would share the news. I especially want to thank Wizcraft for all his help. I will be sure to let you know when I get that Cowboy.

Good guess, but no. The Cane Corso is a registered pure breed dog that is reproduced on the merits of papers. As much as it SHOULD matter what the dog can do, the vast majority of the general public that owns and breeds does does not require anything more from their dogs before breeding them. This is why so many breeds of dogs today are very unhealthy and/or none functional. I have worked a bunch of Cane Corsos and unfortunately they can not live up to the performance the breed is known for. They are kind of like calling a Singer 15-91 an "industrial sewing machine." The breed we deal with is a recreation of the OLD STYLE working Bandog (or Bullmastiff)...where performance and health are more important than appearance. Now, don't get me wrong, I like a good looking dog too, but I have to have function first. This is the way I view almost anything I spend time on. There are many working/protection breeds in existence today, but most are not good family dogs because tey are either 1. too hyper all the time, or 2. have rank/dominance issues making them less suitable around children. I wanted a family guardian. My master's degree is in Animal Sciences, and I have spent the last 12+ years recreating these dogs. I used to refer to our dogs as Swinford Bandogs, but recently we changed the breed name to American Sentinel Canine.

Thanks Wiz. You have me sold on the Cowboy, for if you can sew a single layer of webbing that is about half the thickness of my webbing, then I don't see why I should have any problems with Cowboy...especially since I will pretty much always be using 2-4 layers of the stuff anyway. Even though this means spending more money than I initially wanted to, it is good news as far as I am concerned because this means one machine should really be able to accomplish all my needs and desires for a sewing machine. Lee

Thanks. My webbing is apparently thicker, as there is no way I could stack 16 layers of this webbing in one inch. The webbing I have is about 1/10th of an inch thick. Thanks for your help. I was almost completely sold on the Cowboy 3500/4500 but then someone mentioned to me that it would have a hard time sewing something that thin. Now that you did this test, it looks like the cowboy is the one I will go with...which pleases me because Bob K has such an excellent reputation on MANY websites. He must really do a great job.

Thanks. Two layers of nylon webbing for a total stack of about 3/16" with 138 thread would be as thin as I would go, but if you could drop off that to a single layer and go back up to both layers...that would be awasome. If that can be done reliably, then I am done looking.

Apparently we were posting at the same time. Thank you for the thoughtful reply. I wasn't aware that lift height doesn't necessarily translate to needle cycle. That makes sense now that you explained it. So, back to the 441 clones I guess. Can it do thin nylon webbing reliably? If so, cool. If not...then upholstery machine will be my choice and leather collars will be forgotten about. I need the nylon applications more-so than the leather.

BOTH nylon collars and nylon leashes for retailing on my dog website (Chimera Kennels)...and perhaps a rare attempt at a belt, wallet, holster, or archery related equipment for personal use. It is the collars and leashes that I am DEFINITELY going to be sewing...and definitely with nylon webbing...explaining my interest in the upholstery type machines. I will sew 2, 3, and 4 layers of this material. 2 layers is about 3/16", three layers is about 9/32," and 4 layers is about 3/8." The upholstery machines can handle all this stuff just fine I know because the lady that used to make my collars used such a machine. Unfortunately, she has since retired. But which one is the most capable? If I do leather, it would be very limited. The leashes would the thickest harness weight leather (or whatever horse reins are made from) I could fold over without it cracking (probably about 1/4") material folded over to about 1/2" but the end would be tapered thinner so it would only be 1/2" thick for a few stitches. It would quickly taper thinner on the end side and would be down to 3/8" for about 3" and then taper out smooth like a ramp ending as I cut to the finished side. In other words, if the machine could do 1/2" stitch, it would be for a minimal time. Most stitching on the leash would be at 3/8" or so. The leather leash is more important to me than is a leather collar. The leash is the "shock absorber" to a dog's lunge, not the collar, when doing protection work. Leather collars are too wide and thick (to displace impact) for them to offer any give. If I could do the above with an upholstery machine, I might would forget about making leather collars, as it would likely be the leather collar that would require put me into a harness machine. My collars are 4 layers thick (each layer being about 1/8") for approximately 6" of the buckle and D ring area, then taper to 3 layers for the remaining length of the collar (average about another 16 in length). They are large, as they have to fit large powerful protection dogs. Maybe a gear reduced upholstery machine could do it or maybe it couldn't...but either way...even if I made them I would likely only make a few dozen such collars a year. Some times I wonder if the Cowboy would be the perfect machine for me and wonder if it could do EVERYTHING I need, but then I hear such a machine (441 clone) may have difficulty getting a good stitch on the light weight nylon webbing...which is my PRIMARY reason for getting a sewing machine in the first place. I definitely do not want to spend more money for the cowboy (even though I would love that machine for leather work) if it can't get a good clean stitch on the thinner nylon webbing. And, even if it could do the nylon, if the lesser expensive Juki can meet my needs given my occasional interest in leather, than I wonder if that is not the way to go. ANYWAY, I fear I have probably tested the patience of the members on this website...and I GREATLY appreciate the feedback. There is a wealth of knowledge here. I found a Pfaff 545 machine that I thought was going to be perfect for me, looked great to ME, and within my budget, but the salesman was open with me about it being a reconditioned machine from a prison and therefore suggested it to have had a hard life (I was fooled by a new paint job and good pictures). I appreciated his honesty, as I don't want to get a problem with expensive parts either.

I saw the new consew and Chandler's have a foot lift of 9/16" (or more specifically 14 mm) and the Juki is now 5/8" (or more specifically 16 mm) so that is why I asked. I didn't know if they could penetrate up to an 1/8" or so less than their lift. For what its worth, my "all day long every day" use would be less than a few hours a week. I don't know if that changes anything or not.

If all three have a 3/4 hp servo motor, what is the difference between a consew 206rb-5, chandler 406rb, and a Juki 1541S? If I go with either of these, they would have a gear reduction/speed reducer for controlled work. If I don't go with either of these, I am leaning towards a Cowboy 3500...but that is a different beast of course...so for this topic let's please just compare the Consew, Chandler, and Juki machines mentioned above.

I am about to order a 441 clone as I know these machines are near ideal for my desired leather work...but how well will these machines do with lighter material...say just two layers of heavy nylon webbing? I imagine they will be fine for my 4 layer (3/8") nylon webbing collars, but I am curious if they will do a good job on just two layers of nylon webbing...which has a cross section of only about 3/16"

Old ones were made in America and new ones are made in China?