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Constabulary

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Posts posted by Constabulary

  1. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    I recently bought a 400Watts Servo with needles positioning system. Its not a common brand you find in the US I think.

    It is an analog servo with magnetic speed regulation. Overall a nice motor but the needles positioning system (NPS) sucks!

    Problem is sometimes the needle positioning system makes 1 stitch too much. Needle goes down and you think it will stay there but then it makes another stitch. This is pretty annoying when you sew short seams on straps or so. No way to adjust the sensor on the hand wheel. I tried it over and over again. Furthermore if the needle hits a hard point the positioning system does not turn off even when I take the foot off the pedal. it always works against the hard point. So the only way is to turn off the entire motor. I don´t like it at all!

    So I wonder if I can run the ENDURO Servo motors (or clones) which are equipped with a NPS without the NPS.

    I know I can get them without NPS but I want to know if I pull the plug of the hand wheel sensor just for the case I don't want to use the NPS "today" does the motor still work or does it produce a failure?

    Also, do other motors with NPS turn off when they hit a hard point?

  2. Posted · Report reply

    If the cylinder is no longer needed remove it if possible. I hope it does not leave a big hole!

    From my point of view, most of the times it is worth restoring old machine as long as they are not totally busted! But depends it finally on the machine.

    I have restored a few already. My biggest project was a 111G156 which now is my favorite machine and I´m currently working on an Adler Class III from the early 1900´s. It´s a lot of work but also a lot of fun and you learn a lot!

    Good luck with your project. I´d like to see pictures of your progress if you don´t kind. :)

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I removed the "general dirt" with glass cleaner, the old grease I removed with purified petroleum or lamp oil and a fiber brush. Not sure if this always works but this time it did. Some one told me barbecue or grill lighter fluid works too but I have not tried this. But I think it depends on the ingredients of the fluid. If the old grease is too sticky I use paint thinner to remove it. I figured the old paint on these vintage sewing machines is quite resistant... Of course you have to thoroughly oil the machine after this treatment.

    For rusted parts I use a bath of oxalic acid, this turns rust into some sort of grayish coating but I alway brush this off with a wire brush. Oxalic acid also does no damage the paint.

  6. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    I know but there is just one coil type spring in the 45K so I´d assume the dealer just have bad pictures. I´d contact them and ask.

    If just the small end that goes into the tension post is broken, try to bend the remaining end, it MAY work and since the spring is broken why not give it a try.

    Or try one of the dealer who have banner at the top of this page. But they are all located in the US or Canada but not in Europe.

    OR - maybe the check spring of the Singer 132K will fit but I cannot confirm this...

    http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1416-CHECK-SPRING-SEIKO-_-SINGER-132K=97798

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Mine is in deed and Adler III. I meanwhile have the manual, I had to pay 15€ for a PDF file. The guy did not care about a good quality scan but still better than having non! I also have an incomplete (as it seems) manual of the earlier type called Adler II or Adler MILITRIA. And I have some pictures of the earlier Adler II / MILITARIA from an owner who bought some Adler 4 parts from me.

    So here is a picture of the front cover of the Adler Class 3 Manual...

    post-31854-0-20921700-1396955610_thumb.j

  10. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    Cool - you can´t go wrong with just $70.

    Seems it has the hook on the left side due to the cut out where normally the hook is placed.

    Anyway this machine is worth every penny if it does what it was made for...

    But welding could be a problem since it is a cast iron housing. Not everybody can weld cast iron. As far as I know you only can weld it when the cast iron is HOT (very hot) but heating the iron could cause damages to the mechanics. What I would do is cut a piece of 3mm or 4mm thick sheet metal and glue it in with JB kwik Weld, clean it, sand it and repaint the machine or just the base plate.

    Just my 2 cents.

  11. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    I didn´t take the bearing apart. I took it off for changing the timing belt.

    I have attached a PDF parts list for your machine. Seems the bearing has 3 parts+ screws.

    BTW - for some reason I wrote NEW bearing at the above post, seems I had a weak moment. The bearing is not new, I just removed it, replaced the timing belt and put it back in.

    When I tapped it out I put the driving shaft against the wall with a thick piece of wood between wall and shaft.

    You know what I mean?

    111w155 Parts List.pdf

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Last year I restored a 111G156 which is about the same machine but with reverse.

    My bearing was very stuck too. I almost thought I will ruin the machine when I tapped out the bearing. I was not gentle - really not! As fas as I remember the shaft was slightly thicker toward the hand wheel. Bearing went tight over the shaft when I put it back in but since then it sews like a dream.

    I still have a picture

    post-31854-0-96949600-1396630839_thumb.j

  14. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    To bad I cannot edit the 1st post. Okay, so here are the pictures:

    • Picture 1 shows the data plate of a 370Watts PFAFF clutch motor which can be run on 220V and 380V
    • Picture 2 shows the original 380V setup of this motor
    • Picture 3 shows the setup of the same type motor changed to a 220V + capacitor for clockwise rotation direction

    Please compare the pictures with the diagram in post 1.

    Please note thats the "earth" is just on a different screw but this does not matter.

    One capacitor cable goes on the "free" bridge and the other goes on one of the other bridges depending on which rotation direction you need.

    So thats all - it´s a quite easy task!

    But again if you know nothing about electricity DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - ask a qualified electrician!

    post-31854-0-85760600-1396363144_thumb.j

    post-31854-0-33098100-1396363159_thumb.j

    post-31854-0-36169500-1396363170_thumb.j

  16. Posted · Edited by northmount · Report reply

    This is a factory wiring diagram from a PFAFF sewing machine clutch motor which shows how to run a 380V 3 phase motor on just 220V. It is in German and English language I hope they translated it correctly. ;)

    This diagram was inside the junction box so I took it off and scanned it. I thought this could be very helpful for those who do not have a 3 phase 380V power connection. I did this conversion a couple of times and never had a problem!

    How to chose the correct capacitor:

    rule of thumb: capacitor = 60µF to 80µF per KW

    Assuming the Motor has 370 Watts = 0,370 Kilowatts (KW)

    0,370 x 60 = 22.2 µF

    0,370 x 70 = 25.9 µF

    0,370 x 80 = 29.6 µF

    So capacitors between 22µF and 30µF will work.

    I always choose a 25µF capacitor as it is just in the middle and works fine.

    And you of course have to change the plug! ;)

    I will take some pictures later from the junction box of the motor I recently have converted.

    WARNING:

    Then diagram is for conversion from 380V to 220V - I don´t know if this works in the US with110V but I assume so but don´t know for sure!!! If you know nothing about electricity and you do not understand the diagram - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - better ask a qualified electrician.

    post-31854-0-56974100-1396293023_thumb.j

  18. Posted · Edited by Constabulary · Report reply

    The Adler 120 is a Monster, this is the successor of the very heavy Adler 20. I think is one is way to heavy compared with the other machines.

    I think the Adler 167 has the best reputation but is expensive and the parts + accessories are expensive too.

    I´d go with the Consew 226 as it uses the same accessories, sewing feet and so on like the Singer 111w and parts+ accessories are available even on Ebay. You will be amazed what you find when you enter Consew 226 on Ebay.

    An the price of the 226 is quite good but depends on the overall condition. But since you are buying from a dealer I guess it is in a good condition.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Considering the prices I´d take the Toyota too.

    But even when it has a little bit the look of an Singer 211 this does not mean that the parts will fit.

    The Adler 167 looks like the Pfaff 145, Duerkopp 241 and Singer 155 and so on but they all use different parts. I would not count on it that the Singer parts will fit especially since you do not find much information about the Toyota machines!

  24. Posted · Report reply

    let me know if you need any info on threading the shuttle etc,

    Thanks but I´m about getting a copy of the original manual but haven´t received it yet. So I hope it will answer all my questions. In case I don´t get it I will email you. Thanks again!

    I just emailed SCHMETZ because of the needles, they don´t have / make them anymore but their Product Manager emailed me back and said I should call him tomorrow... I wonder what else he can tell me... :)

    I used to have one of these in my collection years ago. Thanks for the memories! Steve

    You are welcome!

    I hope I can bring the machine back to life.

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