Constabulary
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Posts posted by Constabulary
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BUY IT - BUY IT - BUY IT - if it is in functional condition. $125 is a bargain I´d say!
This is pretty much a clone of an Adler 67 walking foot / compound feed sewing machine (maybe it is even made by Adler and then re-labeled by Chandler)
Looks as if it has a piping foot but they are easy to change - maybe you have to update to a servo motor but I really would buy this machine if it is still available.
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The foot of the Singer 111W will fit. It´s the same type of machine but with a flat bed. They are available with left or right toe.
I see you are in the UK so try College Sewing. The outer foot are just 5 to 6 GBP or so.
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@amuckart
the Video with the old Puritan machines is awesome! I like it very much to see that these old machines are still doing an great job.
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basically when you see a machines that you can flip down into small wooden cabinets you can be quite sure they are domestic machines and not meant for heavier work. If you are looking for something vintage check the ISMACS list they often mention if machines are either domestic or industrial.
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@ Wiz
I really like to read your posts and I´m impressed of your knowledge and experience and Its nice that you take the time to share it with other people! Not matter if one has the machines you are talking about or not - always worth reading your posts!!! Hats off!!!
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2 layers of soft garment leather will work but this machine is not meant for heavier work.
The machine has most like plastic gears and therefore it has its limits so if you don't want to damage it better look for an industrial machine if you want to work with heavier leather.
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Nice price and worth to think about it
BUT - on top of the above mentioned expect to pay shipping + import tax + vat + traveling to the next harbor if they ship it by vessel and not by air.
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Thats a domestic garment sewing machine and not meant for heavier materials. Don´t expect too much from this machine! Better look for a 111W sewing machine. The missing cord could be the cord of the sewing light as well.
The ISMACS list should give you an idea if you are looking for a vintage Singer machine:
http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html
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BTW - if you want the table in a fixed position like a shelf why not using heavy duty shelf brackets so you can put one directly under the machine for supporting it.
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Technically you can place the motor where you want and 180° is fine. A lot of machines having it this way, especially treadle powered machines. But check if the connection between motor lever and pedal (pitman rod or chain) will work in this position. You know what I mean?
s it a full plate or has it a cut out? 30mm MDF is fine I´d say. I have seen much heavier machines on 25mm tables. No need for a steel plate. Instead of a steel plate I´d choose a thicker wooden plate (40mm - 45mm) but I think 30mm is fine.
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Looks very good! With your permission so to say i would like to copy the design
NO WAY
- Duuuude - that will cost you a lot of $$$ **Just kidding** sure - when you like it go ahead. -
@ AndreNL
here you can see how versatile it is.
http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=355668
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@ VanRhodes
No problem at all, I did not know about the exact function of the front foot, I just noticed the "emptiness" and thought it is some sort or walking foot.
I´m also learning
@AndreNL
Because of the speed reducer - 1st of all they are almost not available in Germany (or even Europe) without calling dozens of companies - if at all.
I do not know a single company in Germany who sells them regularly through their website and I´m not the one who is making dozens of phone calls to get the things I need. Ordering in the US cots a lot of shipping + custom fees + import vat. So that was not an option for me. The reduction is the same that others have too 2" - 3" - 4" But I don't need the 3" pulley. It was just to try out how this thing works - I had no Idea.
My speed reducer cots me 40€ for the step pulley (milled out of full aluminum incl. 2 sealed bearings - so this is TOP quality) + 10€ for shaft and some screws + bolts. The Mount is an old sewing motor mount so it didn't cost me a buck. That is at least 1/3 of the price I would pay when I order it in the US.
Furthermore my variant is more versatile. I can shift the pulley sideways and can switch where I need the small or large pulley (left or right side). Not that I need these features but I had this idea and I think it turned out very well.
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@ VanRhodes
I just noticed your threading picture. I guess you know that you have a walking foot machine, right?
But one foot is missing. It´s the one that belongs on the front presser bar and the foot is facing backwards when installed.
Is yours an Adler 20-8 or so?
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I just noticed College Sewing in the UK has them too.
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/KG867-DROP-GUIDE-FOR-DURKOPP
Seems my next order will be in the pipe soon
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Hard to tell - any labels on the thread? Maybe on the underside of the cone?
I have a package one 10 new SCHMETZ 794 needles in size 160 if that helps you for a 1st try. I´d ask 10€ incl. shipping to NL (Airmail letter). I´m from Germany so you should have then in a few days. If you have Paypal I can send them out today.
Toledo has a nice needle / thread size chart:
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The table mount winder looks like this:
But remember you need one for large size bobbins.
If College Sewing is not able to help you should contact Toledeo Sewing Machine Co. in the US, they are often recommended here int he forum for having spare parts for older machines. They also sell the 441 type machines which have the table mount bobbin winder for the large size bobbins so I guess they will have the spare winders too.
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Well I guess it will be quite hard to find. You should probably consider a complete new bobbing winder.
There are table mount bobbin winder available but you need one for larger size bobbins. Maybe College Sewing in the UK can help you with this.
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No, I have not worked with this machine but maybe a manual of the Singer Class 7 helps you to thread the machine. I´m not sure if the treading is the same but I´m sure it will give you an idea.
I´m not sure which wheel you mean. Can you post a picture of where this wheel should be attached?
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Nice set! Seems you have bought a former German Army sewing machine. I remember from my Army time that these were used for repairing Truck tarps on levels above battalions and in depots. I think (but I´m not sure) that these certain kind of work stands were truck mounted for field repair. But the entire outfit is a general repair set for all kind of heavy leather, canvas or webbing harness and so on. Beside of that they maybe be good for repairing sails, parachute harness, heavy tow straps and other heavy stuff.
What parts are you looking for?
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- Sold - please delete!
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So far the timing looks good. Glad you solved it!
I´m not exactly sure what you did on the pulley but I guess your machine has a safety clutch (but don´t know for sure). What you probably did is that you have released the safety clutch and set it back in again. This was probably what you have heard. The safety clutch prevents the hook from damage when you hit a hard spot (for example when the needles hits the needle plate) when you are sewing.
I hope your machine works well now.
You should read the manual before you "rupture" your machine with tools again
- Try to find a manual in Italian language.Also try to find information regarding the safety clutch and how you can set it back.
Good luck with your machine!
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Okay so here is a small Video I just shot from my Singer 111 so you have an idea of how it looks when the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf. It looks a bit different at your machine but basically it is the same.
BTW - do you know all the "vocabulary" such as needle scarf, hook, needle plate and so on?
At first I would revise the settings you made at the belt pulley set screw you mentioned above. Make sure the screw sits at the correct spot.
I would not use the machine again without knowing the screw sits where it should. - I´m serious! This screw secures the pulley and there is a lot of force on that spot when you run the machine and what happens when it is not properly secured can bee seen in the 2 pictures above (different machine but same result).
Then remove the needle plate to have a better view on the parts and turn the hand wheel and see where the hook meets the needles. The tip of the hook should meet the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. I think this can bee seen in the video quite clear.
Good luck!
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It indeed should scare you! I think there should be a flat spot, notch or indentation for the set screw for securing th pulley properly! I unfortunately cannot see the end of the shaft in the Adler parts list.
I have attached a picture of a shaft on which a hand wheel has not been secured properly and this has ruined the shaft. The grove that goes around the shaft (picture 2) is worn off from wrong positioned set screws - there shouldn´t be such grove!!!
If a machine is out of time you always (ALWAYS) should check the needle bar position first. If this does not solve the problem you can to go further but I think in more than 90% of the cases this solves the problem.
Vintage Singer Questions
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted
Great deal! Worth every cent!
regarding the foots, I´d ask one of the dealers who have banners at the top of this side. Maybe one of them is in your era.
Or check ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=adler+67&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_mdo=Collectibles&_armrs=1&_pcats=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xadler+67+zipper&_nkw=adler+67+zipper&_sacat=0
These are so called zipper feet because the outer feet just have one toe on either side. But the dealers may have some more variants.
Left toe foot is the one I use most of the time.